Advocating new EATC parts - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 01-21-2007
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Advocating new EATC parts, etc.

I haven't been active in Ranger-Forums in a couple years (really since G-E was around), but I did my share of tinkering then. I was one of the early experiementers with the EATC conversion and I just thought I'd recommend to all those in the process or considering doing the mod that you use a new blend door actuator. (I'm the idiot who took pictures referenced from John's EATC How-To (Cardomain))

I distinctly remember John (n3elz) writing and recommending to use a new module when possible, and I remember thinking "mine looks like it's in great shape"... well, apparently it wasn't.

Now, only the Max A/C blows cold air, and everything else including the "automatic" setting blows hot air. This wouldn't be so bad if i didn't live in South/Central Texas. The ATC self-diagnostic gives me the 022, 024, and most often the 025 error codes, meaning I get to slither under the dash for a new blend door actuator.

Anyway, I hope someone will read this and avoid my mistake.

Also, does anyone know where I can buy a thin 1/4" driver to get the broken actuator out more easily?

Last edited by bobrosco; 02-03-2007 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 01-21-2007
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Ryan! How are you, man! It's good to hear from you.

Sorry that happened -- it's a decision that's easy to make. Mine is in fact built from an old control unit, but newer motor gears. Don't know how long it'll last either...but I'm cheap, lol.

Nice to see you on here and posting!

It's a 5/16" socket for the nuts I believe, and a small 1/4" driver -- though nothing special, and a ground down socket works pretty well. Grind the socket too much though, and it doesn't reach the nuts.

The driver I used is a real cheapie I had laying around that has since broken due to misuse, lol. I don't know what I'd do it I had to replace it. Probably go to Walmart and buy another cheapie.
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Old 01-21-2007
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Thanks John! Life is good, but dental school sucks; It leaves no time for tinkering. I'm getting married March 31st though, so if anyone wants to send gifts, I'll let you know where I'm registered .

Cheap is always good, but you live and you learn. Grinding down a cheap socket sounds like a really good idea, and cheaper would be a softer metal more likely, right?

Any other comments on my other problem?
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Old 01-21-2007
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I just used my regular craftsman 1/4" driver and socket. It worked just fine. I did drop it once or twice and have to retrieve it, but my hands are just small enough that I could squeeze them back there with a little forcing to get my wrench back. Other than that all I could think of would be to use some racheting box ends with those low-profile socket attachments for them.
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Old 01-23-2007
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I think somebody dropped an EMP near my truck.

Now my auto-headlights stay on for a five minute minimum after the ignition is turned off. Even though the slider is all the way to the left. Anyone have an auto-dim and lamp rearview mirror for sale?

Last edited by bobrosco; 01-23-2007 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 01-23-2007
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Thinking about selling mine, lol. The dimmers no use when my rear window is blocked anyway...haven't decided yet though.
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Old 01-23-2007
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It'd be nice if it were a direct plug and swap. I have the older one with the dimmer and lamp buttons, but I'd like the newer one.

Let me know, if you do decide to get rid of it, John. Meanwhile there's ebay to watch...
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Old 02-03-2007
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I got my new blend door controller in and finally had the chance to work on getting it installed. I used a 1/4" craftsman socket set and promptly dropped it behind everything. I can't fit my hands behind the controller and I can't even set the ratchet.

I figure a magnetic pick-up tool is the best way to get it, but does anyone know which way it could have fallen? I can't see in there!

Here's a picture I took with the dash off, but I'd really rather not do that again. The top of the photo is oriented towards the engine.
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Old 02-03-2007
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All three times I dropped mine back there, it just fell straight back so I squeezed my hand back there and wrestled it out.
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Old 02-03-2007
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I used a magnet on a "flex shaft" gadget. One of those spiral spring rods with a magnet at the end. Yeah, that's the problem with doing it that way -- but it's the only game in town unless you take the dash apart.
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Old 02-03-2007
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Well... I did manage to get my socket back using my pick-up tool, and then dropped a finger driver down behind, apparently too far for the pick-up to reach, since it'll only do a right angle bend in the current space.

Any schematics of the area available, so I might can find an alternate route for an extraction? Also, anyone had experience with these angle drives?
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Old 02-04-2007
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I taped a piece of 20 ga wire to the handle of my ratchet to pull it out with. Worked fine. Glad I used a new blend door actuator.
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Old 02-04-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain ranger
I taped a piece of 20 ga wire to the handle of my ratchet to pull it out with. Worked fine. Glad I used a new blend door actuator.

I did the same thing! It worked great. The blend door is also the only part new I used for my EATC install, mainly because the Explorer I pulled my system out of had everything BUT the blend door actuator. Beats me, but luckily they left the harness for it.
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  #14  
Old 02-04-2007
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Good to know... FOR NEXT TIME. Just kidding , sounds like a good idea. Sure beats fishing behind the dash with magnets.
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  #15  
Old 02-04-2007
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It blows my mind how many people have done this since I posted it. I still get emails now and then from non-forum folk about it, and even Explorer owners who used the how-to to convert their Explorer.

I really never thought so many would attempt it since it's such a detailed mod. It's cool to see so many "adventurous souls" out there, lol!
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