Good morning folks, I am new to the forum., I've had my 2001 2wd Ford ranger about two years now. Last week it started with the low beams not coming on and the wipers not working and then the alternator not charging. Took it to an alternator shop and he said it was a bad alternator. Put in a new one on Saturday and still no joy, however the headlights started working but no wipers. Reading on here I checked the "I" wire LG/R and zero voltage with the key on. Checked all the 7.5 amp & 30 amp fuses with a multi-meter. I've been burnt by broken filaments before.


I found one schematic with a battery light (I have gauges) and it said if the light is not working it's the fuse. Well the voltage gauge is working but no power. I traced the LG/R wire to a connector near the fire firewall by the fuse box under the hood and verified there is no power there either. Could the GEM unit be the root of all evil here? Wipers & "I" voltage? I'd appreciate ya'll wisdom and thoughts, I really need to get my truck running again. Thanks!

 

Welcome to the forum

No not the GEM in a 2001

I would ask for a partial refund from the shop that replaced the alternator, basic "charging 101" says to test voltage at alternator wiring FIRST, before replacing alternator

On 2001 3.0l Ranger the fuse to check is in the cab fuse box #11 it is 7.5amps (F2.11 is the designation in some fuse panels)
Same fuse powers other cab systems

That fuse should get power with Key on, so test that at the fuse panel, to make sure it is indeed getting 12volts with key on.
If not then problem will be elsewhere explaining the other problems you are having.

Another fuse #11, in the engine fuse box, 50amp, powers the ignition switch.
When you turn on the key this 50amp fuse sends power thru the ignition switch and powers several fuses in the cab fuse box
One of these is fuse #16, 30amp, for the windshield wipers...............
So you could have an ignition switch problem, loose connector or wear problem, it is under the steering column above gas pedal area.

Here are the diagrams for the power distribution in 2001 Ranger, page #2 is where to look.

Not sure if this link will work but here is the charging circuit for 2001 Ranger: | Repair Guides | Charging System (2001) | Charging System (2001) | AutoZone.com

You can see it is just basic wiring, no GEM or computer used or needed.

Basics of battery, alternator and charging system here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...issues-149481/

 

thanks RonD, I will check fuse 11 for power, I'll also check the wiper fuse again to see if there is power there. At work now and will check this evening, hopefully before it gets dark!

 

Okay, power is to the fuses and the gauge for power is working. F11 has juice when the key is on. I found a connector near the fuse box under the hood with the LG\R wire, no power there either, so somewhere between the connector and the gauge I am losing power! Any ideas?

 

You may need to get an EVTM for 2001 Ranger
EVTM = electrical vacuum troubleshooting manual

Ford sends these out to Ford Service Departments each model year for each vehicle
You can often find them on ebay for $15-$25
These have EXACT wire colors and breakdowns of circuits, also locations of splices and connectors.
You don't want "Shop Manuals", they are too general, if it doesn't say EVTM then it isn't want you want, Wiring and Vacuum were often separate books, so just getting the wiring one is OK.
And must be 2001 because 2000 or 2002 may use different colors or circuits


Also look here: | Repair Guides | AutoZone.com
This should be setup for 2000-2005 Ranger
Autozone has many diagrams in their online repair section
Click on Wiring diagrams
Not EVTM detailed but not a bad place to start

The Light Green/Red wire, AT THE ALTERNATOR, should show 12volts if unplugged and with key ON, thats the ON voltage the alternator needs to start working, if no 12volts then alternator will stay OFF
This wire comes from the Battery(Charge) light in the dash, power for this light comes from fuse 11(7.5amp)
The Light bulb also has a resistor in parallel so if bulb should burn out then 12volts to alternator would still work, so burned out bulb won't cause No Charge issues

When wire is connected to alternator and has 12volts and alternator is not spinning then alternator is a "ground" so a light bulb with 12volts on one side and a "ground" on the other side will Light up, when alternator starts to spin and generate voltage it is no longer a "Ground", and a light bulb with 12volts on one side and 12volts on the other side will NOT light up
So Battery Light circuit is very simple, but needs to be working or no alternator power

 

Thanks Ron, I will look for one, I am trying to get back on the road asap though. Found the LG\R wire on the back of the instrument panel and did a continuity check between the connector near the fuse box and the connector from the instrument panel - no joy. There must be a break some where between the two or another connector? half tempted to splice a new wire in.

 

LG/R wire on back of dash goes to Alternator, not fuse box

My drawing shows Yellow wire, no stripe, going from dash to Fuse 11

Fuse 11-------(yellow wire)---------Instrument cluster/battery light--------(LG/R wire)------alternator

You can add a temporary switch to add Key on power to LG/R wire at alternator, needs to only have voltage when key is on or battery will drain when engine/key are off

 

Correct, but there is a connector near the fuse box under the hood. Not connected to the fuse box, just an inline connector. I am thinking of running a new line from the cluster to the connector. Or try and find the break. <sigh>

 

Success! Finally found the issue. Seems like the !%?#! squirrel wasn't satisfied just chewing up the vacuum lines and sensor wires on the passenger side of the engine block. The little SOB went on the drivers side up under the fuse box and gnawed 4 wires in two in the short space between the bulkhead connector and where it went into the split tube. Butt splices and crimpers in action. Everything is now working again! Life is good! Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

 

Good work

Wiring is the hardest thing to troubleshoot