Any tips on pressing out ball joints and control arm bushings - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 02-05-2012
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Any tips on pressing out ball joints and control arm bushings

Hey I was hoping that someone could give me some pointers on using the rent-a-tool ball joint press from advanced. I got it hooked up and cranked on it as hard as I could, with a 2 foot wrench and nothing moved. I tried the impact(mine is weak) and nothing either. Anyone have any advice? I was trying on the lower ball joints and lower bushings.

Or an idea of how much it would cost to pay someone?

Or want to come do it?

Thanks!

Last edited by dmcs14; 02-05-2012 at 01:22 PM. Reason: lowers
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Old 02-05-2012
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Are you doing the uppers or lowers?
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Old 02-05-2012
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Sorry I should have put that in there, lowers. For the uppers I bought the complete arms.
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Old 02-05-2012
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i had to use a torch to heat up my knuckles to get my d44 ball joints out. i dk if that is an option you have to use or not.
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Old 02-05-2012
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Thanks! It is an option, I just dont have experience doing that. I will look it up and give it as shot.
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Old 02-05-2012
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Replaced mine with a dead blow hammer. :)
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Old 02-05-2012
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Lucky, I used a mini sledge and they didn't budge :/
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Old 02-05-2012
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I'm gonig to throw out the obvious, just to make sure it wasn't overlooked:

Have you removed the snap rings?

If so, have you made sure that your tool is lining up properly and you're not pressing against the ball joint from the bottom and the top?

If you're using the proper press, it shouldn't require a big fight, especially if you're using a breaker bar or long wrench.
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Old 02-05-2012
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The snap rings are removed, and I checked to make sure everything would line up right and it did, but I will double check to make sure its not sliding over when I start cranking on it, good points
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Old 02-05-2012
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If you've done all that, soak it in PB Blaster for like 30 minutes, and keep cranking down on it with a long handled wrench. If you don't have a good breaker bar, I would consider investing in one. If it's still bring stubborn, heat the crap out of the control arm around where the ball joint is.

If all else fails, bring the control arms to a shop. I'd be surprised if they charge you more than an hour's worth of labor to remove the bushings and ball joints.
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Old 02-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME00Stepside View Post
If you've done all that, soak it in PB Blaster for like 30 minutes, and keep cranking down on it with a long handled wrench. If you don't have a good breaker bar, I would consider investing in one. If it's still bring stubborn, heat the crap out of the control arm around where the ball joint is.

If all else fails, bring the control arms to a shop. I'd be surprised if they charge you more than an hour's worth of labor to remove the bushings and ball joints.
Good advice.
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Old 02-05-2012
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PB blast, heat and a 32oz hammer. Bushings too?
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Old 02-05-2012
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Thanks guys I am going to go try that now, yes bushings too, they are probably fine but I bought new ones and the truck has almost 200k on it so I might as well
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Old 02-05-2012
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If the tool is starting to crush the top of the ball joint something is not lined up right. For removal the tool is too much hassle. I use an impact socket that of a smaller diameter and hit it with a BFH. They shoot right out after 2 good hits.

CA bushings more likely will need some sort of press work by a shop. The BFH may work if you can drive them in straight.
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Old 02-07-2012
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OK thanks for all the replies guys, I soaked them in PB blaster and got one out, couldnt find a torch and didnt want to buy one so I cut a piece out of the second one with a sawzall and got it out with a chizel. Then my friend came by and popped the other two out in 5 minutes, so I must have been doing something wrong :/ but thanks for all the advice just wish I knew what I was doing wrong.
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