Battery draw
Battery draw
hello all
I have a battery draw of .27. I have traced it to the inside passenger fuse box. It is the number 11 fuse. This is where I get stuck. The book says its the (passenger compartment fuse "logic power"). Where do I go from this point? Any help would be appreciated. The truck is a 2010 ranger 2.3 motor.
I have a battery draw of .27. I have traced it to the inside passenger fuse box. It is the number 11 fuse. This is where I get stuck. The book says its the (passenger compartment fuse "logic power"). Where do I go from this point? Any help would be appreciated. The truck is a 2010 ranger 2.3 motor.
Last edited by jake101; Nov 1, 2020 at 02:46 PM. Reason: make and model
Welcome to the forum
Not much you can do on that one
One thing you can do is to remove each larger connector on the SJB(smart junction box) and inspect each pin and slot for corrosion, not an uncommon issue
Look at this article: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...horn_mod.shtml
This is just to show you about the connectors
You can also pull out the SJB and have a look inside for corrosion if you want, up to you
But with an SJB voltage draw that high after 30min it means a problem inside its circuits so need a new one, which can be found at wrecking yards
You do need to wait about 30min after key off and doors closed to see if there is an amp drop after SJB "goes to sleep" , its a "battery saver" circuit that clicks off after 30min
Expected amp draw after 30min is 0.03 to 0.08 amps
0.08 would be if you have Keyless entry, it needs to "stay awake" 24/7 to responded to a key fob button press
Battery is the first thing to check if its going dead
After engine has been off for at least an hour, unhook one of its battery cables from the truck and test voltage, write it down
Come back in 3 to 8 hours and test voltage again, should be EXACTLY the same, any drop means battery is self draining, has a short inside one of its cells, can even happen to a new battery
Not much you can do on that one
One thing you can do is to remove each larger connector on the SJB(smart junction box) and inspect each pin and slot for corrosion, not an uncommon issue
Look at this article: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...horn_mod.shtml
This is just to show you about the connectors
You can also pull out the SJB and have a look inside for corrosion if you want, up to you
But with an SJB voltage draw that high after 30min it means a problem inside its circuits so need a new one, which can be found at wrecking yards
You do need to wait about 30min after key off and doors closed to see if there is an amp drop after SJB "goes to sleep" , its a "battery saver" circuit that clicks off after 30min
Expected amp draw after 30min is 0.03 to 0.08 amps
0.08 would be if you have Keyless entry, it needs to "stay awake" 24/7 to responded to a key fob button press
Battery is the first thing to check if its going dead
After engine has been off for at least an hour, unhook one of its battery cables from the truck and test voltage, write it down
Come back in 3 to 8 hours and test voltage again, should be EXACTLY the same, any drop means battery is self draining, has a short inside one of its cells, can even happen to a new battery
Last edited by RonD; Nov 1, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
I checked the connectors in the relay box (smart junction box) under the hood, they all looked good and free of any corrosion. I pulled some of the fuses and the 1, 3 and 5 the draw dropped. From the book they go to the front passenger control box. I go to that inside the cab and as stated befor it is the number 11 fuse that will make it drop in the draw. Which it states in the book as the passenger control fuse. I found out that if I pull the c2280c and the c2280b wire connections from the fuse panel the draw goes completely away. Is there a wire diagram where I can tell what each of the wires are for so I can go and test each one?
SJB is in the passenger side kick panel, cab fuse box is part of the SJB
Engine fuse box is not that
Fuse 11 in cab fuse box powers the SJB so no outside connection to anything else
Here are the 2 power diagrams I have for 2006 Ranger, it will be the same for 2010
Engine fuse box is not that
Fuse 11 in cab fuse box powers the SJB so no outside connection to anything else
Here are the 2 power diagrams I have for 2006 Ranger, it will be the same for 2010
Thank you for the diagram I will most definitely look more into it on my next day off it will be of great help. Ill keep you posted on what I find out. Once again thank you for the information to help this dilemma of the angry truck.
Just a heads up
There are B codes that can be seen using most OBD2 code readers, not all but most
P codes are the more common engine or transmission codes, Power train codes
B codes are Body codes, those are codes set by the SJB when there is a problem
If there are B codes set then that may help diagnose the issue
It could be a contact or sensor is not working so SJB never "goes to sleep", so fuse 11 never powers down all the way
There are B codes that can be seen using most OBD2 code readers, not all but most
P codes are the more common engine or transmission codes, Power train codes
B codes are Body codes, those are codes set by the SJB when there is a problem
If there are B codes set then that may help diagnose the issue
It could be a contact or sensor is not working so SJB never "goes to sleep", so fuse 11 never powers down all the way
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