Hello,

I'm new to this site, so I hope I'm doing everything correctly. I have a 2003 ranger with a 2.3. I noticed that my battery light was on, and that my voltage gauge in the instrument panel was low. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so it is new...this problem just showed up in the last couple of weeks.

With the engine running at idle, that battery only showed about 11.7ish. I charged the battery and drove to the farm to "fix" the problem with a new alternator. However, after the replacement, I'm still having the same problem....not charging...still showing around 11.7 and light/gauge is still on and low. Is there a fuse that controls the alternator? Where is it located? Any other ideas and help would be much appreciated. I do not consider myself much of a mechanic and definitely not when it comes to electrical problems, but i can follow instructions. I have owned rangers my whole life, and know a lot about the issues that face them, but this is new to me.

Thanks,
Kyle

 

Yes, there should be 2 fuses in the engine compartment fuse box, a 60amp and 40amp I believe.
On some they added a Mega Fuse it would be just outside the fuse box with 2 larger wires connected, test both sides for battery voltage if only one has voltage fuse is blown

test alternator for voltage.
With key off the larger B+ terminal on the back of the alternator should have 12volts(battery voltage)
If not then fuse is blown

Start engine
test B+ terminal again, it should have 14.5volts to 15volts, if not new alternator is probably bad.

But turn off engine and key and remove 3 wire connector, center wire should have 12v(battery voltage), if not a different fuse is blown.

Turn on key, green wire should now have 12volts, thats the battery light power

 

Thanks, RonD. My landlord and I looked at the fuses last night...they seem okay. He got under the truck the check the alternator voltage while it was running...he said it was only putting out 1 volt! I'm taking the old and new back to the parts store today and getting them checked. However, I had a question regarding the 3 wire connector: After unplugging it last night to remove the alternator, I noticed that there are only two wires going to it?? One one each side, the middle does not have a wire. Looking at this a little closer, it does not seem to me like there was a broken wire. I pulled off some of the heat tape, and never found it? Plus, I would think it would be noticeable since the problem just started a couple weeks ago...I should be able to see a broken one if it was there. Did some of these just use the two wires?

Thanks

 

I just found a wiring diagram for 2003 Ranger 2.3l, sorry I can't link it here.

Yes it does show only 2 of the 3 wires on that connector, 3.0l and 4.0l will have jumper wire there.

But what is interesting is that they don't use fuses...............
Ford is using fusible links on your model, like they did in the '80's

A fusible link is a short colored wire that is a smaller gauge than the main wire, it's purpose is the same as a fuse but it will allow slightly higher amps before separating(blowing), this wire will heat up and separate without causing a fire.


The Yellow/white stripe wire on the 3 wire connector should have 12volts, key on or off
It is connected(spliced) to the Black/orange stripe that is connected to B+ on back of alternator, there is a brown color fusible link at that splice

3 wire connector-------Yellow wire----------(fusible link)-----Black wire

Check the B+ Black wire first, it should have battery voltage, key off or on, if no voltage the it's fusible link is blown and there would also be no voltage at the Yellow wire because of this.

Battery Junction box(fuse box)-----Red wire----(fusible link, Gray color)----Black/orange wire----(splice)-------Alternator B+


There is also Fuse #11 in the cab fuse box, it powers the battery light and/or Voltage gauge, but if battery light comes on with the key then that fuse is OK

 

Thanks for the info! We'll get that checked in the next couple days...busy tonight and tomorrow. It has to be one of the issues described above, as I got the old and new alternator tested, and they were both good. I'll keep you posted over the next couple days.

 

RonD,

Just wanted you to know that we found the problem...The yellow wire going to the plug had a bare spot in it, and it broke right in half! Thanks for all of the help. Saved me over $200 for a new alternator, and would have had difficulty finding the problem had you not shown me where to look for the fusible link. Thanks!

 

Good work finding that broken wire, hard to do.

Thanks for the update and fix info

 

I have a 1997 Ranger 4.0,manual trans rwd. All the checks on the alternator plug check out the way I've read here,but no charge and the little battery icon on the dash does not light up,no matter what the key position is. There is one of the screws on the back of the alternator regulator that has a label that says "Ground to test" Doing that,the alternator charges. Is this a wiring issue or a regulator issue.
As I said, the wires in the plug on the alternator check as they should. Rear large post,constant 12 volts,Yellow/White wire constant 12v,The green wire,key off-0 volts,key on-12 volts. Bad regulator,maybe?

 

Yes, thats what it reads like, the "ground to test" and no battery Light confirms the voltage regulator is not grounded on its own for some reason

The battery light uses the voltage regulator as its Ground, it gets 12v with key on, tested OK, and if that light green wire is plugged in and grounded by regulator then battery light comes on
You can ground that light green wire when its unplugged to confirm battery light comes on

 

Thank you very much for that so useful information. This may mean that creeping oxidation has undermined the regulator and "ungrounded" it!
I'll take the alternator back off and remove the regulator and clean it up and reinstall it and see how that goes. This has been an intermittent issue,starting 3 days ago,now constant. No charge,but also no warning dash light,only falling battery gauge needle.
Thanks again!

 

Its possible its an internal connection issue but most likely it is a circuit failure in the voltage regulator, so not repairable, only replaceable

Alternators fail in a few ways, most common is one of the three field coils or their diodes fail, causing lights to dim at idle, no thats NOT normal on any vehicle, lol
Second is bearing failure, you will hear that
Third is voltage regulator or brush failure, brushes just wear down and no longer make contact with the rotor, the voltage regulator powers/grounds the brushes to create the magnetic field that generates the AC voltage in the three field coils, the 2 diodes on each field coil changes it to DC voltage

 

Thanks for the additional Info. I have a voltage regulator ordered Rock auto, and have my Escape to drive so not a rush repair. I may go the replacement of the whole unit,as it does have some age and mileage on it.
The information is much appreciated!

 

After getting an alternator from AZone,my 'No Charge" issue remained. So I checked every connection and ground point I could find,with no good results. Remembering the "Ground to test" point on the rear of the alternator,I tried that. No Charge,unlike the old alternator that would charge when I did this. OK,no charge at all,so I put the old alternator back on and did the "Ground to Test" procedure. Full charging 15 volts and climbing,this with a battery load/charge/voltage meter hooked directly on the battery posts. This showed me if the alternator was producing current,albeit grounding the test point on the alternator,the current was getting to the battery. Being a bit disgusted with my Azone alternator, I loaded up what few tools it took to remove the alternator off my 4.0 and headed off to my local U-Pull-it salvage yard. After only a short stroll through the yard,peering under a bunch of Ford vehicles,I found a clean-enough-to-lick 130 Amp alternator on an 4.0 Explorer hit hard in the rear. This alternator must have been put on shortly before the wreck,because there was not a speck of dirt on it anywhere. Jackpot! In just a few minutes,I had it off (I was getting good at this!) and headed for the office. The guy at the counter looked at it,said "boy,you got a nice one there. That will be $15.00+tax and $4.00 core charge". I paid the man,headed home,put it on and right away everything was back to normal,just as it was before this whole episode started.
I returned the "New" alternator to Azone,they checked it and said it was apparently defective,and would I like a replacement or a refund of my nearly $200.00. I took the refund. To their credit,Azone was gracious and friendly about the whole deal and apologized for all my troubles.

A great big THANK YOU to RonD for his help and advice on this issue!!

 

One more thing. I took the regulator off the back of the salvage yard alternator and checked the brushes and the amature condition before installing it.
Everything there looked brand shiny new,so I'm confident it was $20 bucks well spent.

 

Good job

Thanks for the kudos and follow up post as to what fixed it

May help someone else who is sure it couldn't be a problem with the "new" alternator, lol

Yes, give me "previously test" parts every time, used

 

Sound advice from a knowledgeable member such as you,RonD,was a big help and kept me from chasing problems that didn't exist. Once I knew the alternator itself was charging the battery by jumping the regulator,I then knew my wiring to the battery was sound and it was the regulator that was bad. When the "new" alternator actually made the problem worse,time to change the game plan. (and save $200.00)
The yard I go to for parts has over 600 vehicles to choose from. Some have what you need on them,some have that part removed already. You just have to search. It's an easter egg hunt,but you can get a prize piece,like I did with the as-new alternator off the wrecked Explorer.
Yes,used parts,in good condition,and at a tremendous savings,are most frequently the best way to go. Especially if one has the multiple choices I had as to what I had to choose from. A recent rear axle bearing failure that also damaged the axle requiring replacement,going used,only cost me $18.00.
Can't beat that.

 

Yes, and you are "saving the planet" , recycling