Ok whats the trick for getting them 6 big bolts that
are rusted in place out? and if i need to replace who
has them outside of Ford Co ?

thanks Al

 

Tractor supply has them, but no clue whats up there in your area. Any hardware store should do. Measure stock bolts, and add 3 inches. Get grade 8 due to high torque ratings. will be a tad pricey but to hold your truck together I'd say its worth it

 

Soak them with PB Blaster and blast them with an impact and they will come out. Or just put a pipe on your ratchet to get leverage and get them out that way.

 

^that's exactly what I do. takes some elbow grease, but it should definitely work for ya

 

Tractor supply Thanks we got one near here.
Want to clean rear chassis up had it about 30 days
think whoever had it drove a lot in snow or ran around
on beach?Rust and more rust body parts not to bad under
side just the chassis.

 

Watch the torque on the new bed bolts, you can pull down too tight on these.
Grade five should do but of course grade "8" is better.

Start the BP Blaster a week ahead, everyday spray the bolts threads and get the top side of the threaded area, not in the bed but under the bed but on top of the threads.

Impact Driver will help a lot, when I did mine, only 25K on the truck, two got jammed up and the Impact Driver couldn’t loosen them; had to cut the heads off.

 

I have a big 1/2" drive cordless impact that can really torque stuff and even it had a hell of a time getting those bolts out. Be careful when you are wrenching on them with a breaker bar too...I had one of the retainers underneath spin on me while I was really laying into it and that breaker bar and myself about went flying. I put anti-seize on them when I had them out the first time to get the Line-X sprayed in. And like someone had mentioned don't over-tighten them when you put them back or you can crush the bed floor metal.

Funny timing on this thread becuase I just took my bed bolts out yesterday in preparation for a fuel pump replacement on my '03.

 

If an impact won't take them out, heat just the head of the bolt up and using an air hammer, chisel the head off. I've had to use this method a lot.

 

I have seen a lot of bolts on my 2005 ranger FX4 seem
to have a of lock tight and rust. Been doing alot of small reparirs
today i removed gas door and filler neck to claen rust out around
that and repaint. The door bolts had rusted but neck bolts ok?

 

Breaker bar and a pipe. I ended up using a four foot pipe on a standard 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Bought a T-55 impact socket at Napa for about 6 bucks and used that. Once the bolts were freed up a bit, the IR 2135 did the rest of the work. Some actually came out intact.

For new clips, Ford dealer. New bed bolts, Fastenal. Got all of the hardware needed for about 55 bucks rather than 120+. I think I replaced two clips, reused the others... all of the bolts were replaced with 8.8 metric hex bolts with the proper thread and a little more length for using the clips. Also had to get some large fender washers... thick ones.

Anti seized the hell out of the bolts so future removal, if needed, will be much easier as well as keep rust from forming on the part of the bolt between the bed and frame. (important in the rust belt)

Lots of CRC Freeze-Off was used beforehand for a couple of days.

 

I found some harware at Tractor supply for the bed mounts