I'm attempting to bleed my clutch line. I've got the entire line and master cylinder removed and hanging. All videos I've watched show that I should manually push the rod to pump trapped air bubbles out of the reservoir. Too much movement of that rod shows signs of air bubbles and I'm wanting to get down to only being able to push that rod 1/8" it seems. HOWEVER, no matter what I do, I cannot get the push rod to budge in the slightest. Even when I put the rod on the concrete and use some body weight. Zero movement. Is the rod supposed to be aligned in some specific way?

I was having trouble shifting into first when stopped, but added Dot 3 and got some improvement, but I still wanted to bleed this out to be certain. Is it true that I should be able to get some kind of movement from the rod?

 

No, you can't press push rod in unless master is hooked up to Slave AND slave bleeder is open
Then you can push in the masters piston in so any Air is pushed out in to the HOSE to the slave, so you want master upside down, so hose is on the up side and air goes that way

Reservoir needs to be full, and no, no air can flow from master TO reservoir, there is a valve so flow can only be from reservoir to master, otherwise when you press down the clutch pedal fluid would just flow up to reservoir not down to slave to release clutch disc

 

Just to make sure I understand, your suggestion is leave the line connected to the slave, open the bleed valve, invert the master from its inherently flawed position so any bubbles can go up the line, and then pump the rod. This would case fluid and bubbles to go through the slave and out the bleed valve, as long as I've straightened the line enough so there are no other areas for bubble to naturally collect. To do this, I'd need someone to be filling the reservoir since the valve would be purging oil. Am I understand this correctly?

 

Yes, that is correct

The Masters line to slave has a valve that closes when disconnected from slave, so fluid doesn't run out when its disconnected, it called the Quck connect(or disconnect) fitting
So if it is not plugged into the slave then there is no way a "working" Master's piston can be pushed in, there is no where for fluid to go, so its essentially LOCKED

That's why you need it to be hooked up to slave

If you think its air in the master then yes you need to have it inverted so air is at the end of master near its hose, and you can "try" to push in the piston with bleeder close but very very hard to get enough leverage to push it in against pressure plate springs
So opening the bleeder is better

There is what I consider an easier way to get air out of the master, and you can do it with master out on a bench not connected to the slave
At the pushrod end of master is a c-clip that holds the piston in against it spring, this is how master is assembled, from this end
With push rod end up and reservoir higher than the end, remove the c-clip, and piston will come up releasing any air inside, fluid will flow in from reservoir to replace any air
Now the hard part, you have to push the piston back in far enough to replace the c-clip, 4 man job, lol
This is actually easier to do with master back in place, so you have the clutch pedal for the leverage to push piston in far enough to get c-clip back on

Anyway, If all else fails get a pre-bled Master to replace yours

 

Great information!

So here is where I'm at. I did just what you mentioned, I opened the bleed valve and pushed the piston over and over. Naturally I got a lot of oil to start coming out of the bleed valve (I had also connected a clear hose). There was also some foreign substance, what looked like something white are curdled! Not what I expected. After several pumps, I wasn't getting any more oil to come out. What confuses me now is that nothing is draining from the reservoir! It has stayed completely full, even as I have depleted the line from Master to slave and out the bleed valve. What would cause the reservoir to not be refilling what is being depleted?

I'm also wondering about the function of the bleed valve. As I am doing all of this and it is open, how do I prevent the introduction of new air into the line? Is there some kind of fail safe for that?

Thanks again!

 

When master is just sitting and reservoir is above it ......and slave bleeder is open there should be gravity feeding the fluid down from reservoir thru master and to the slave, doesn't go fast but does go

You do have the Air bladder removed from reservoir right?
When new the reservoir has a black rubber "cup" inside it, this needs to be removed to add fluid to reservoir, its purpose is to prevent air and fluid contact, as the fluid will absorb moisture from the air

Picture of air bladder here: https://i.stack.imgur.com/80sP9.jpg

This is often removed and never put back in, which is fine, just not optimal, doesn't effect operation

The cap is vented, so fluid can drain out to master, cap does prevent most air exposure

And you are using Dot3 or Dot4 Brake fluid correct?
Not OIL

 

Yes, using Dot3. And I hate admitting this, but I had not removed the air bladder. So embarrassing. This is my first go with anything clutch related, and it shows! So I will go remove that bladder and check the actual fluid level, which I'm guessing is drained.

Once I have that properly filled and can run it through and out the bleed valve, is there a proper way to finally close that valve back off without air having gone back in while it was open?

You are a lifesaver!

 

Yes, been there done that myself, lol

So yes, reservoir fluid is drained and "cup" is full

Yes, bleed it like you normally would, that was most likely the reason you were having an issue with bleeding

You should have a helper in the cab, with you under the vehicle, you open the bleeder and they push the pedal down and HOLD IT down, then you close the bleeder and they release the pedal after that
Then repeat
After 3 or 4 times check reservoir, and refill as needed
You can leave the cap off as long as its attached to firewall

If reservoir is too full after clutch is working again, you can leave the "cup" out for now, but remember level of the fluid, so you can check it over the next few weeks to see if there is a leak in the system.
The fluid is not "used up" it can only "leak out"

 

I can't thank you enough for all your info. Everything is back in and the clutch is nice and smooth! I definitely learned a lot along the way, but I'd still be banging my head against the wall without your help.
Thank you!

 

Good work

Thanks for the thanks and posting a follow up that YOUR hard work paid off