Blower not blowing
Blower not blowing
I have a '99 ranger 4 cylinder 2.3 liter that i just bought and when we charged the battery i tried the blower to see if it worked. It did. Then i tried it today when we had the engine running and it didnt work. So i turned the engine off and tried it again. Nothing. I could hear the compressor kick on but no air is coming out anywhere can someone tell me where to start looking?
Do only some of the settings work or none at all? Usually it's the blower motor resistor that dies, leaving only some of the modes working. I assume it's completely dead.
Quickest, easiest way to tell if it's the blower motor that's crapped the bed is to unplug it's two pin connector (blower assembly is on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay, big and black behind the washer/coolant reservoirs, can't miss it) and use a test light (or multi meter if you have one, either will work). You should see a full 12 volts on the 'high' setting for the fan. No idea what you'd get on the other three. If you see voltage on the pins that lines up with that, chances are the blower has crapped the bed. If you see no voltage (ensuring that the directional switch is set to any position except for off and the speed switch is set to high) then it's likely either the blower motor resistor OR a fuse has blown. Try that and see what you get, then we'll go from there.
Quickest, easiest way to tell if it's the blower motor that's crapped the bed is to unplug it's two pin connector (blower assembly is on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay, big and black behind the washer/coolant reservoirs, can't miss it) and use a test light (or multi meter if you have one, either will work). You should see a full 12 volts on the 'high' setting for the fan. No idea what you'd get on the other three. If you see voltage on the pins that lines up with that, chances are the blower has crapped the bed. If you see no voltage (ensuring that the directional switch is set to any position except for off and the speed switch is set to high) then it's likely either the blower motor resistor OR a fuse has blown. Try that and see what you get, then we'll go from there.
Do only some of the settings work or none at all? Usually it's the blower motor resistor that dies, leaving only some of the modes working. I assume it's completely dead.
Quickest, easiest way to tell if it's the blower motor that's crapped the bed is to unplug it's two pin connector (blower assembly is on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay, big and black behind the washer/coolant reservoirs, can't miss it) and use a test light (or multi meter if you have one, either will work). You should see a full 12 volts on the 'high' setting for the fan. No idea what you'd get on the other three. If you see voltage on the pins that lines up with that, chances are the blower has crapped the bed. If you see no voltage (ensuring that the directional switch is set to any position except for off and the speed switch is set to high) then it's likely either the blower motor resistor OR a fuse has blown. Try that and see what you get, then we'll go from there.
Quickest, easiest way to tell if it's the blower motor that's crapped the bed is to unplug it's two pin connector (blower assembly is on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay, big and black behind the washer/coolant reservoirs, can't miss it) and use a test light (or multi meter if you have one, either will work). You should see a full 12 volts on the 'high' setting for the fan. No idea what you'd get on the other three. If you see voltage on the pins that lines up with that, chances are the blower has crapped the bed. If you see no voltage (ensuring that the directional switch is set to any position except for off and the speed switch is set to high) then it's likely either the blower motor resistor OR a fuse has blown. Try that and see what you get, then we'll go from there.
ok so i looked at the fuse its fine but havent had a chance to look at the 2 pin yet so ill let u know what i find thanks :)
You're welcome. Blower motor circuit is fairly simple with few components. Also, as a tip: whenever you have any type of electrical issues from ABS to check engine lights, check every single fuse you see. You never know when something is tagged onto a fuse you don't suspect. I also find it a good warm up before diagnosing. Sort of like a practice swing before golfing.
The blower motor resistor I'd bet is toasted. That's the part that usually bites the dust. All it is, is a set of coils that holds back current, getting very hot in the process. They eventually fail as they're sort of self-destructive. If you're lucky, the plug has not welded/melted itself to the resistor. You'll find it on the same housing as the blower motor, bolted on with a four wire plug, fairly thick wires. If it has melted together, you'll need a new pigtail as well plus the proper soldering equipment. These resistors can be bought on rockauto (my favorite), or your local auto parts store.
What you can do, first if you want, is inspect the resistor and look at the coils. If they look burnt up or if the coils are broken, replace it. If it looks OK, then it's probably fine.
What you can do, first if you want, is inspect the resistor and look at the coils. If they look burnt up or if the coils are broken, replace it. If it looks OK, then it's probably fine.
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