Brake drum removal - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 05-16-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
Brake drum removal

i spent the past hour trying to get the drivers side drum off sarahs ranger and it wouldnt budge. when i took the wheel/tire off i seen a nice patch of fuzzy ****...i figured corrosion from the wheel/drum (alm wheels)...so i cleaned it up with a wire brush and sprayed the ever-lovin **** out of it with PB blaster and proceded to tap on the drum. i did this same procedure for about 20 minutes and then i stopped.

then i tried to parking brake about a dozen times and it wasnt stuck and it was off...so i tried the star adjuster and backed it off. then i tired the PB and tap for a little more and gave up, because it was getting dark. the drum wouldnt budge one inch! WTF!

so my question, is there a trick to getting these drums off? im no noob to anything auto but this has me stumped...

also what is the miniunium allowable thickness for the front brake rotors?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-16-2007
mrkauphy's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: west columbia
Posts: 10
could u push it back up ?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-16-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
only movement i get is the little play from the axles.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-16-2007
mrkauphy's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: west columbia
Posts: 10
can u see any of thr shoe?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-16-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
i tried but i couldnt get my head in far enough to look. i know ur not supposed to but i took my small pry bar behind the drum and backing plate and gave it a little wiggle and it didnt even budge.

im stumped, out of all the drum brakes i messed with this is a first.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-16-2007
mrkauphy's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: west columbia
Posts: 10
try this (if u havn't already) make sure the drum is all the way up and hit it hard with a hammer between the studs HARD
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-16-2007
0RangerEdge2's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,593
STOP!!!! First of all, there is an adjuster wheel behind the rubber piece on the bottom of the backing plate. You need to retract the shoes before you try to get them off anymore. And if this doesn't work, try getting a gear puller.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-16-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkauphy
try this (if u havn't already) make sure the drum is all the way up and hit it hard with a hammer between the studs HARD

yep! he is right. jsut keep smacking it in between the studs... it will come off
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-17-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
i did try the star adjuster...and im gunna need one big gear puller LOL

Quote:
then i tried to parking brake about a dozen times and it wasnt stuck and it was off...so i tried the star adjuster and backed it off. then i tired the PB and tap for a little more and gave up, because it was getting dark. the drum wouldnt budge one inch! WTF!
as i said before, im no noob to this. i never have seen a drum this hard to remove. all that corrosion on the drum/flange should have been a warning sign to wait to do this later when i had more time.

just how hard do i need to hit this summa*****? i was doing full on baseball swings with my 3 lbs dead blow! LOL when i said "tap" i mean beat the **** out of it.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-17-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Elizabeth City, NC
Posts: 767
A deadblow absorbs too much of the impact.

Use a 2 or 3 lb. BFH and whack the crap out of it, as previously described.

The center hole of the drum gets gaulded to the axle hub. You can use a small wire wheel to get the rust off the exposed part and PB Blaster to soak it.

It's sounds bass - ackwards to smack it between the studs in the installing drum direction, but that will work. Once it breaks free, it takes a lot of wiggling to get it off. Resist that urge to hit it really hard on the outer diameter in the removal direction, unless you are planning on installing new drums.

Truly, once you break that bond in the center, you can work it off. Wear gloves!


Thank PennDot for all that salt!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-17-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
I had bad experiences using a BFH so i stuck to the DBH...i severely cracked a drum hitting it between the studs with a 3 lb hammer before and i didnt wanna damage the drum on her truck...mainly because it isnt mine LOL.

once i do the front brakes today ill give it another try on the rear drums.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-17-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Butler,PA
Posts: 26
I alway put a light coat of anti- seize compound on the hub where it contacts the center of the drum. I keeps the salt from rusting it solid. I know this won't help you now, but will in the future. The salt in the winter will literally salt/weld the drum to the hub if you don't.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-17-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
that is a great tip, i do plan on it once i get there LOL.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-18-2007
M50B06's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ravenna ohio
Posts: 315
this happened to me in my E-150 when i did the rear brakes, the star adjuster was loosened all the way but the shoes ground down the drum, and the edge rusted over and wouldnt let the drum come off-it did come off but in 4 pieces
i just pulled the drums off my ranger to check the shoes and it was rough but it came loose
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-21-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
Posts: 2,232
Im gunna let the tech who inspects it deal with the drums, lol. i dont have the time or room to be playing with them. the same **** happened with the drivers front rotor so i had to persude it to come off but it didnt take much.

funny how i have alm wheels on my F150 but i never had this problem before. are the factory wheels (5 spoke) made from a different kind of alloy?
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-23-2014
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Whiting, NJ
Posts: 4
Easy Rear Drum Removal

Rear drums that haven't been removed in a long time (or never) can become "welded" to the axle stud flange. Beating, tapping, fluid and a propane torch are a waste of time. The easiest way is to use an oxy/acetelene torch. It has an intensely hot flame and will heat shock the drum without heating up the flange you're trying to remove it from. Play the flame around the face of the drum near the studs and within a few seconds you'll hear a loud "snap" when the drums breaks free. A propane torch warms up the metal too slowly and ends up heat soaking the drum as well as the axle flange so they expand at the same rate and won't separate. If you don't have an oxy/acetelene set but know someone who does, and the truck is drivable, take it to them, remove the rear wheels, use the torch to pop the drums free, squirt a little penetrant around the studs, reinstall the wheels and drive home. They won't re-seize before you can remove them.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-23-2014
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by bearbon View Post
Rear drums that haven't been removed in a long time (or never) can become "welded" to the axle stud flange. Beating, tapping, fluid and a propane torch are a waste of time. The easiest way is to use an oxy/acetelene torch. It has an intensely hot flame and will heat shock the drum without heating up the flange you're trying to remove it from. Play the flame around the face of the drum near the studs and within a few seconds you'll hear a loud "snap" when the drums breaks free. A propane torch warms up the metal too slowly and ends up heat soaking the drum as well as the axle flange so they expand at the same rate and won't separate. If you don't have an oxy/acetelene set but know someone who does, and the truck is drivable, take it to them, remove the rear wheels, use the torch to pop the drums free, squirt a little penetrant around the studs, reinstall the wheels and drive home. They won't re-seize before you can remove them.
I've always had good luck with MAP gas, but never on something with that much surface area. In between propane and the hot wrench.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-24-2014
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Whiting, NJ
Posts: 4
I actually tried a MAPP torch too before resorting to the oxy/acet and, like you said, it's just too much area to heat quickly with anything less. Maybe if you used four mapp torches held by a couple of people ......?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-30-2014
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Abilene
Posts: 14
Stuck Drums

After success getting the Ranger drums off I went ahead and tackled the Prizm drums (gave up on getting them off 5 years previous)! Anyway, you'all call it "weld" to the spindle, I call it rust. Had success getting Ranger drums off by off and on spraying around lug bolts with penetrating oil. And hammering the flat area around the lug bolts. And hammering the outside part of the drum. And some prying between backplate and drum. I also had a sticking EBrake cable on one side that was interfering (replaced that later).

Kept at it till they came off. Gave them new shoes and springs and adjuster... Anti seized the flat surfaces when putting back together for future help. These drums may have never been off before (same as Prizm?). Didn't aply heat but it definitely entered my mind. Some drums have 2 threaded holes for driving a bolt into to push drum away from spindle. Don't remember seeing them on the Ranger drums.

Max drum inside diameter ought to be stamped into the drum somewhere.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stuck Parking Brake (Rear Drum Brake) therunningdog General Technical & Electrical 5 03-17-2013 09:08 PM
drum removal bolt hole size? hornedfrog1985 General Technical & Electrical 10 12-16-2010 08:35 AM
Drum Brake Help Rooks General Technical & Electrical 9 05-01-2007 04:27 AM
Drum Brake Size 0RangerEdge2 Drivetrain Tech 9 02-24-2006 06:11 PM
ATTN: n3elz or other 31spline drum brake owners ScottG General Ford Ranger Discussion 11 12-31-2005 11:16 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:34 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.