Brake help, residual valves, disc brakes, no abs, and prportioning valves...
#1
Brake help, residual valves, disc brakes, no abs, and prportioning valves...
My Truck is almost done and I need to figure out what to do with the brakes.
this is what i was thinking.
Disc Brake Conversion kit for the rear...
FMS-M-2300-G
Disc Brakes, Rear, Solid Rotors, Single Piston Calipers, Ford, 8.8 in./9 in., Trucks, Kit
374.88
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=FMS-M-2300-G
now i have no electronic proportioning any more so I'm going to run this...
WIL-260-8419
Brake Proportioning Valve, **** Adjustment, 1/8 in. NPT, Single Inlet/Outlet, Aluminum, Natural, Each
$41.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=WIL-260-8419
now i should only need one correct? for the rear?
also i found these
WIL-260-1874
Residual Pressure Valve, Blue Anodized, 2 psi, Disc Brakes, 1/8 in. NPT Female Inlet/Outlet, Each
17.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=WIL-260-1874
i think i would need them for the front and the rear, should i have two for the front (as in one for each side) and one for the rear? I heard they will keep the caliper close to the rotor so you dont have to push so hard on the pedal to get pressure.
i plan to remove the abs module all together and run new hard lines...
opinions? is this overkill?
this is what i was thinking.
Disc Brake Conversion kit for the rear...
FMS-M-2300-G
Disc Brakes, Rear, Solid Rotors, Single Piston Calipers, Ford, 8.8 in./9 in., Trucks, Kit
374.88
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=FMS-M-2300-G
now i have no electronic proportioning any more so I'm going to run this...
WIL-260-8419
Brake Proportioning Valve, **** Adjustment, 1/8 in. NPT, Single Inlet/Outlet, Aluminum, Natural, Each
$41.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=WIL-260-8419
now i should only need one correct? for the rear?
also i found these
WIL-260-1874
Residual Pressure Valve, Blue Anodized, 2 psi, Disc Brakes, 1/8 in. NPT Female Inlet/Outlet, Each
17.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=WIL-260-1874
i think i would need them for the front and the rear, should i have two for the front (as in one for each side) and one for the rear? I heard they will keep the caliper close to the rotor so you dont have to push so hard on the pedal to get pressure.
i plan to remove the abs module all together and run new hard lines...
opinions? is this overkill?
#3
#4
You only need one proportioning valve for the single line that goes to the rear brakes.
I have no firsthand experience but my understanding is that the factory residual valves are located at the master cylinder. The front residual valve is already setup for discs so that should require no attention. If the rear residual valve is different on an Explorer with rear discs, then you should change it. In that case, you would also need to be sure that the drum brake residual valve is eliminated from the system. Drum brake residual valves are almost always calibrated to a higher pressure and could make the rear discs drag.
I have no firsthand experience but my understanding is that the factory residual valves are located at the master cylinder. The front residual valve is already setup for discs so that should require no attention. If the rear residual valve is different on an Explorer with rear discs, then you should change it. In that case, you would also need to be sure that the drum brake residual valve is eliminated from the system. Drum brake residual valves are almost always calibrated to a higher pressure and could make the rear discs drag.
#7
Has anyone ever actually located a residual valve for the rear brake circuit? I've had problems with my rear disc conversion on my 2001 Ranger since day one. It wears the inside pads like crazy. I've ran across one other guy that had the exact same problem..
The caliper brackets are shimmed perfectly centered over the rotor. The slide pins are free and greased well. A residual valve holding brake pressure is the only thing I haven't tried correcting yet. My truck does have ABS so I wonder if it's built in to that unit or the master cylinder?
The caliper brackets are shimmed perfectly centered over the rotor. The slide pins are free and greased well. A residual valve holding brake pressure is the only thing I haven't tried correcting yet. My truck does have ABS so I wonder if it's built in to that unit or the master cylinder?
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