Brake Upgrade for 99
 

I have a 1999 Ranger and my front brakes are always an issue.

1. The brakes seem to be "grabby" or when I step on the brakes lightly they want to grab real hard. This problem is worse when they are cold.

2. I have to change the rotor every 30,000 miles due to warping. The seem to get wobbly after about 5,000 miles. I don't think I am real hard on the brakes.

My question is:

Is there some sort of upgrade for the rotors, say a thicker rotor or different type?

This is bad enough that I may have to get rid of it if I can't fix it.

Thanks for any help!

Jake

I don't know the specs on your truck but go to http://perfectbrakes.com/ for some EBC rotors and pads and see if they make anything for your truck. I run EBC: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=63955

Thanks for the help. I will look into those.


Is that Justin I see in the reflection on your truck?

Attachment 175648

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!! Yes it is! Small world. Poor tire.

Your rotor's aren't warping you are getting excessive lateral runout. Which is something in your brake system that is causing that. Check to make sure your wheel bearings are properly adjusted make sure your master clyinder is in good condition and make sure your sliding caliper pins are properly lubed. These are all contributing factors to excessive lateral runout.

As far as I know the master cylinder is good. What is a good way to tell if it is not. I will try lubing the pins and checking the bearings.

Thank you

I go wheelin with Justin all the time. Im friends with the Rock Brawlers.

In fact I think you are in some old Photoshops I did of Justin.

Ha Ha I found this one from way back. Sorry to do this to you:tongue:

Attachment 175644

Bench bleeding it and making sure the bore is in good condition. But yeah if you have bad bearings or they are not adjusted properly your rotor will not spin right and it will wear unevenly.

oh god....

No worries. Justin is the one getting it in the ass not me. HAHA.

Ok, thank you. Looks like I have my work cut out for me.

I am going to start by getting some upgraded rotors and while I am replacing them I will change the wheel bearings and follow the specs exactly.

Lube everything up.

Check the master cylinder and replace if needed.


:biggthump

Sounds like a plan any questions don't hesitate to ask this is what im going to school for right now.

Thank you!

make certain that the guide pins are properly lubed (dielectric grease works good, never antisieze on guide pins) and also, the stainless steel shims on the caliper cradle must be removed ad cleaned or replaced, also clean under the shim before you put them back on

when rust forms under the shim, it pushes upward on the shim, pinching the brake pads and preventing them from sliding freely as they should. you should remove the shims and scraper the rust off from underneath them using a screwdriver, three edged burr knife, roloc disc or something of the sort. It is best to replace the stainless steel shims, if you can not, scotch-brite or roloc them and put a VERY thin coating of anti-sieze on both sides of the shim and install them back in the same location you remove them from.

when compressing the pistons, make sure that both pistons take an equal amount of force to compress (try compressing them individually with two c-clamps to feel the pressure on them) if one is easy and on is hard, the caliper may need to be replaced.

thoroughly inspect the flexible rubber brake lines to make sure they arent twisted, pinched or kinked. inspect the hard lines as well. bleed the brake system completely until the fluid coming out is clean, brake fluid is hydroscopic and likes to absorb water. when brake fluid absorbs water, it lowerd the boiling point dramatically. when the fluid boils, air will be introduced into the system. also, when the fluid expands from boiling, it may cause the brakes to drag slightly also causing the rotors to warp.

i would recommend using Motorcraft DOT-3 brake fluid, because it has a 500 degree boiling point vs. regulat DOT-3 fluid that has a boiling point of 401. make sure you bleed the entire system. RR, LR, RF, LF in that order

hope this helps

Just printed this out for records.

wow! Lots of help here. Good forum!


I did have to replace the upper suspension arms (not sure what they are called) about 4 years ago. The pin was worn out and was making a knocking sound. These may be going bad again:12: I wonder if that affects the braking at all?

the upper ball joints?

you can check them yourself for wear if you have a long prybar 18"+ and a floorjack, i will tell you how just PM me if you are going to do it.
if you replace the uppers again, be certain to get MOOG brand ball joints because the ball joint is replaceable seperate from the entire control arm, saving you alot of money.

the ball joints may not be the clunking you hear, there are a few other things you should check first...sway bar links, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, shock bushings and tie rod ends.
if you search my posts i remember writing up an extensive step by step for how to check the ball joints on an SLA type truck...i will search for it as well

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...4&postcount=12


https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...59&postcount=4

Your style of suspension is referred to as SLA or Short/Long Arm meaning the upper control arm is shorter than the lower control arm to minimze camber changes during suspension travel.

In some om the posts i refer to TTB suspension, that is pre 1997 Rangers.

If you need the part numbers to the MOOG ball joints with the replaceable ball joint cartridge let me know, MOOG does sell them both ways so be careful

Helpful stuff Justin, I'll have to check that next time I have the wheels off.

So if my ball joints are bad, can I use the same control arms and just press out the old ball joint and replace with the Moog?

Or do I have to get new arms also?

Thanks for all the help. I really like the truck other then this issue so I would like to get this all fixed.

99% of the "my front brakes are too grabby" gripes I've fixed with either new rear shoes or new adjuster wheels.

Does your parking brake hold if you:

push it 1/2 of its travel distance to the floor

and put in drive or let out the clutch?

In other words, check/adjust/replace your rear shoes / adjusters.

Another way to confirm my diagnosis is to drive down the road, press the parking brake until you can feel it having a braking effect, THEN press the foot brake and see how grabby the fronts are. My bet is you'll see a big difference. Fix the rears!

If your parking brake goes completely to the floor, again = bad rears.


Seriously.

Thank you, I will check that. Probably time for the rears to be changed also.

i agree with earl, as for your ball joints, are you 4x2 or 4x4? i have heard the coil spring ball joints can be removed from the arm but i cant recall ever doing a set to verify

I had them done at the time and the shop told me they were one piece. I will look into this further. I will be :irked: if they are not. The truck is 4x2.

damn u jake ur going down im gonna make sure ur iniation is gonna be interesting

That tire shot was interesting.