A/C Condesner Replacement. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 05-14-2011
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A/C Condesner Replacement.

Anyone had to replace one of these before? mine sprung a leak over winter, right in the condenser, I can get a new one for like $60 bucks, but what all has to come out? Rad and fan? Evap lines etc?
anyone who sheds light on this gets +1 cool points.
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Old 05-15-2011
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http://www.ehow.com/how_8023067_remo...-ac-lines.html

That explains it a bit.

I'm pretty sure it's an easy disconnect, just by looking at it, but I could be incorrect.

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Old 05-15-2011
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I think just changing the a/c condenser is a pretty straightforward job, but you'll need to check out your whole a/c system afterwards to get it working. - that would include a leak test to make sure the system will hold the refrigerant, that all your lines are ok - if your condenser emptied, moisture has already made its way into the system, and there could be all kinds of corrosion taking place in there messing things up - making sure that your a/c compressor is working, paying an accredited a/c facility to refill the system, etc.

Might be more $ than it's worth.
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Old 05-15-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by north44 View Post
I think just changing the a/c condenser is a pretty straightforward job, but you'll need to check out your whole a/c system afterwards to get it working. - that would include a leak test to make sure the system will hold the refrigerant, that all your lines are ok - if your condenser emptied, moisture has already made its way into the system, and there could be all kinds of corrosion taking place in there messing things up - making sure that your a/c compressor is working, paying an accredited a/c facility to refill the system, etc.

Might be more $ than it's worth.
I am an accredited A/C facility. lol.
Nah, it worked until like the other day when i was driving home from work and i noticed my air wasn't cold, so when i got home i opened up the hood, and saw that the compressor was Quick cycling, So i went and put a can of R-134a in it, and saw that it was spraying. i put a piece of tape over it to mark it for later.

I do know what i'm doing, it just i want to know if anyone's cheated it out, or if you have to pull ALL that crap out.
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Old 05-16-2011
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You may be in luck then - I say "go for it!" - you'll have to pull the rad, the condenser is in front of that, so the rad will have to be emptied. Other than that, go ahead, and good luck - you're getting the condenser for a good price, and you'll save a lot on labor - I know when I did my a/c compressor, that it was a fair chunk of change (actually, it was the clutch that went, but a clutch was about 2/3 the cost of the whole compressor, so I just changed the whole thing). After that, it was just a matter of changing the orifice tube, doing a leak test, putting in the right amount and type of lubricant, and re-charging the system.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Not a ranger, but I did the g/f's Corolla last year. Same part, the condensor.

I just unbolted the rad from the header panel and wiggled the condenser out, and the new one in. From looking at a ranger, the same should be able to be done...take your time. No need to remove the RAD. Hardest part was turning the ratchet on a few hard to get at bolts. With rust, definitely a couple hours job ( broke nearly every bolt off) I had to change the filter on the Corolla...I don't think Ford uses one looking at my manual...and Ford says the suction accumulator is reusable.

Don't forget to put the required amount of PAG oil into the new condenser before you install it (couple ounces or so). And lube all o-rings with the PAG. Get new o-rings for the couple bucks it costs.

Note about PAG: there are different formulations....go to an auto parts store and get the one Ford uses. Its not the same as other manufacturers. Also, PAG oil is hygroscopic, it absorbs water like brake fluid....so keep the cap on it.

When your done, you have to pull -29hg pressure for 1 hour to get all the moisture out of the system (water boils at room temperature at -29hg).

I found that when repaired, I paid a shop the$100 to remove the moisture, test for leaks and fill it back up.

Initial quote for the Corolla at the shop: $1100
I did it for $260 total.
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Old 05-17-2011
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if the system has been opened up the accumulator must be replaced!!!!
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Old 05-17-2011
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So i put the Condenser in last night, Filled the system full of R-134a, purged it a few times, put the rest of the can in, and VIola. Ice cold A/C.
the Rad did have to come out, but it wasn't too much of a PITA (cause i replaced the Rad last year). and it got a coolant flush too. (10 dollar kit at Murrays). and it figures, the week i replace it, its only gonna get to like 60 degrees.
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Old 05-19-2011
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if the system has been opened up the accumulator must be replaced!!!!
The Ford Service manual specifically states that this is not necessary.
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Old 05-19-2011
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The Ford Service manual specifically states that this is not necessary.
it dosen't, System was open for about a week with no problem.
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Old 05-19-2011
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ask any ase cert hvac tech and they will tell you that it needs replaced, moisture gets in the system and the suction accumulator has desicant which is a drying agent and it takes less than a few drops for it to be no good.
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Old 05-19-2011
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ask any ase cert hvac tech and they will tell you that it needs replaced, moisture gets in the system and the suction accumulator has desicant which is a drying agent and it takes less than a few drops for it to be no good.
Been running it for a few days without any problem, Explain that.
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Old 05-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j99ranger4x4 View Post
if the system has been opened up the accumulator must be replaced!!!!
we pull condensers out of cars all the time at work(i work at a body shop) and we dont replace the accumulators...but we do put tape on the openings to keep dirt from getting in
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Old 05-19-2011
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im just tellin u the correct thing to do, u may have lucked out for now.
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Old 05-19-2011
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Its alrite, But i know its going to be fine, i checked it the other day and its not doing too bad, Purged the system again and added some R-134.
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Old 05-21-2011
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You didn't draw a vacuum before charging?

If not, you have moisture in the system.
How much will depend on the humidity when the system was open and how long it was open If it is more than the remaining capacity of the accumulator/drier, you will eventually have problems with corrosion. The fact that it works now, is not the issue. Corrosion takes some time to take it's toll, but it eventually does.
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Old 05-22-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Criggs View Post
You didn't draw a vacuum before charging?

If not, you have moisture in the system.
How much will depend on the humidity when the system was open and how long it was open If it is more than the remaining capacity of the accumulator/drier, you will eventually have problems with corrosion. The fact that it works now, is not the issue. Corrosion takes some time to take it's toll, but it eventually does.

I took it to my fathers shop the other day when i purged the system and used his vacuum machine. they're a PITA to get right and it took me a good hour to finally get a good seal.
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