General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Check engine light came on, error code P0320?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 10, 2014
  #1  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Check engine light came on, error code P0320?

I have a 2001 Ford Ranger that runs pretty good once it gets going, the problem is that here lately it hasn't been starting first time. It'll crank but not start, then other times it'll start up perfect first time. Then today, my check engine light came on and got the code P0320: Ignition engine speed input circuit malfunction.

Any ideas? Did some research online and talked to my father in law who's a mechanic and he thinks it could be the crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks!
 
Reply
Old Sep 10, 2014
  #2  
RonD's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 30,635
Likes: 2,949
From: Vancouver, BC
Hopefully it is the CKP(crank position) sensor or its wires, other wise it is the computer failing.

CKP sensors rarely fail, and I have never read about one becoming intermittent, they either stop working, dead, or work all the time, so probably wiring, water in connector maybe?

I forget what years they did this but on some Rangers they put the Computer(PCM) at the top center of the firewall, connector on engine side.
This location could get water intrusion via the rear hood seal, and it was a bad enough problem that they added a cover for the connector on later years.
I mention this because the ICM(ignition control module) is IN the PCM on the 2001, and the ICM is what is reporting the problem.
The ICM is what uses the CKP sensor signal.
 
Reply
Old Sep 10, 2014
  #3  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Originally Posted by RonD
Hopefully it is the CKP(crank position) sensor or its wires, other wise it is the computer failing.

CKP sensors rarely fail, and I have never read about one becoming intermittent, they either stop working, dead, or work all the time, so probably wiring, water in connector maybe?

I forget what years they did this but on some Rangers they put the Computer(PCM) at the top center of the firewall, connector on engine side.
This location could get water intrusion via the rear hood seal, and it was a bad enough problem that they added a cover for the connector on later years.
I mention this because the ICM(ignition control module) is IN the PCM on the 2001, and the ICM is what is reporting the problem.
The ICM is what uses the CKP sensor signal.
Could be, we had some pretty good rain these last few days. Problem is getting to the CKP connector. I know where it is but I couldn't get to it?
 
Reply
Old Sep 11, 2014
  #4  
RonD's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 30,635
Likes: 2,949
From: Vancouver, BC
What engine is it?
 
Reply
Old Sep 11, 2014
  #5  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Originally Posted by RonD
What engine is it?
3.0
 
Reply
Old Sep 12, 2014
  #6  
bucko's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 349
Likes: 6
From: Lake Mary, Florida
On my 2000 3.0, the connector is to the right center of the firewall, just right of the blower fan/evaporator housing. If you open the hood, then walk over to the passenger side of the engine bay, then glance at the center top of the fire wall, you should see this connector that RonD speaks of.

About a month ago I posted a thread on how my guage cluster intermediately would shut down, then start working; RonD memtioned this same situation, and that Ford had started a "silent recall' and issued a "TSB" (technical service bullitin) to the Ford techs to place a cover over this connector.

Since our previos truck owners did not experience (?) this problem, yours and my truck apparently did not get this fix. I have put a large piece of A/C ductwork tape over this connector to protect the "seam" of the connector from getting any water from getting into the connector from rain entering from the hood (back area at the cowl). Since this has been done, I have not had the guage failure situation. Since some of the cluster guages are using the ECU as input, along with their own sensors that share this same connector, I'd start with it first before buying a replacement ECU. A piece of good insulating tape to cover the seam of this connector will cost you peanuts, or fabricate a piece of metal to do the same.
 

Last edited by bucko; Sep 16, 2014 at 04:56 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 12, 2014
  #7  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Originally Posted by bucko
On my 2000 3.0, the connector is to the right center of the firewall, just right of the blowwer fan/evaporator housing. If you open the hood, then walk over to the passenger side of the engine bay, then glance at the center top of the fire wall, you should see this connector that RonD speaks of.

About a month ago I posted a thread on how my guage cluster intermediately would shut down, then start working; RonD memtioned this same situation, and that Ford had started a "silent recall' and issued a "TSB" (technical service bullitin) to the Ford techs to place a cover over this connector.

Since our previos truck owners did not experience (?) this problem, yours and my truck apparently did not get this fix. I have put a large piece of A/C ductwork tape over this connector to protect the "seam" of the connector from getting any water from getting into the connector from rain entering from the hood (back area at the cowl). Since this has been done, I have not had the guage failure situation. Since some of the cluster guages are using the ECU as input, along with their own sensors that share this same connector, I'd start with it first before buying a replacement ECU. A piece of good insulating tape to cover the seam of this connector will cost you peanuts, or fabricate a piece of metal to do the same.

Thanks for the reply! I can see the connector but it seems like it's hard to get to it. Would it be worth calling the local ford dealership and ask them and this silent recall?

So far the truck has always started, just takes a few extra seconds or on the second attempt.
 
Reply
Old Sep 12, 2014
  #8  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Well went to start my truck this morning and nothing, just a click. Could it be the battery? Even though it threw out that error code?
 
Reply
Old Sep 14, 2014
  #9  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Well I replaced the starter and it started first time with no issues!
 
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2014
  #10  
bucko's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 349
Likes: 6
From: Lake Mary, Florida
I'd say that the error code and faulty starter are not related. I suspect all the cranking you've had to do lately to start the truck took its toll on your aging starter.

Still have the CEL (check engine light) and code?
 
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2014
  #11  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Originally Posted by bucko
I'd say that the error code and faulty starter are not related. I suspect all the cranking you've had to do lately to start the truck took its toll on your aging starter.

Still have the CEL (check engine light) and code?
So far it has not came back on. Why would it start right up when I replaced the starter if that wasn't the issue?
 
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2014
  #12  
motorhead119's Avatar
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: boyce, la
from time to time i have found that a simple thing like a loose connection at the starter will throw an unnecessary code. bad grounds do that to. so when you replace some part, you inadvertently fix the original issue.
 
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2014
  #13  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Originally Posted by motorhead119
from time to time i have found that a simple thing like a loose connection at the starter will throw an unnecessary code. bad grounds do that to. so when you replace some part, you inadvertently fix the original issue.
I took the starter out and got it tested at Oreily's and they said it was bad. I bought a new one for $130 that comes with a lifetime warranty. It's the biggest job I've done on my own, saved around $600 ($150 to get it towed then between $300-$500 to fix the starter). I've had the starter replaced twice in about 6 years. Could there be something causing the starter to go bad quicker than it should? I'm thinking when I got it replaced before they may have used a manufactured starter and thats why they didn't last long.
 
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2014
  #14  
motorhead119's Avatar
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: boyce, la
did you get a new starter or a re-manufactured starter? cause the remans can be bad right out of the box. it just depends on how good a day the reman company did on that run of parts. i have gone through 3 bad starters before and it took a 4th to get a good one, its all a hassle so now if i can, i spend a little more and get a real all new starter. same goes for alternators.
 
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2014
  #15  
tommygolf1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Durant, OK
Originally Posted by motorhead119
did you get a new starter or a re-manufactured starter? cause the remans can be bad right out of the box. it just depends on how good a day the reman company did on that run of parts. i have gone through 3 bad starters before and it took a 4th to get a good one, its all a hassle so now if i can, i spend a little more and get a real all new starter. same goes for alternators.
I went ahead and got a new one. I'm guessing the previous ones the shops put in we're remans since they didn't last very long.
 
Reply
Old Sep 17, 2014
  #16  
bucko's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 349
Likes: 6
From: Lake Mary, Florida
While this will not be in agreement with others, I always prefer OEM, and not rebuilt or "just like OEM quality" parts. Instead of buying new OEM, I will sometimes head to the local boneyard and pull a used part (such as a starter or alternator) from a low mileage vehicle, and install it. So far, I have had no issues with starters and alternators when using these. Even used OEM parts I find to be better than a remanufactured one from most auto stores.

And the starter had no "direct" issue with the trouble code you got. I can't see a bad starter causing a CEL/trouble code. As another poster mentioned, perhaps you had an issue with a connector under the hood, and when you changed the starter, you bumped it, or seated it.
 

Last edited by bucko; Sep 17, 2014 at 06:39 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 10, 2019
  #17  
dinO6453's Avatar
Member
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: san antonio, tx
junk yard parts

Junk yard.parts are just that. Junk.
There is a difference between refurbished or rebuilt and remanufactured parts.
A refurbished part is bench tested and the component(s) that fail are replaced and its painted and sent to the store. A remanufactured part is stripped down to the casing and non wear parts such as shafts. The entire remainder of the component is replaced with new. Such as in a starter the bendix, windings, starter, bearings, springs etc are new. Not so in a refurb
Hint your orange and black store has the refurb. Refurb bad. Buy green and have more success
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gkm2003XLT
General Technical & Electrical
1
Jan 15, 2019 03:00 PM
JFerric
2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech
6
Dec 28, 2017 08:43 PM
banshee350
2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech
4
Jul 1, 2016 10:27 AM
Marvin67
2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech
5
Aug 25, 2015 11:34 PM
Conversy
General Technical & Electrical
8
Oct 12, 2011 05:31 PM




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:09 AM.