The rebuild went well, thanks to all here who provided advice and answers. But an issue has cropped up that I need to some assistance with.

On start up right after the rebuild, no check engine light, all seemed normal engine was smooth. After about 700 miles after the rebuild the check engine light came on. I was near a NAPA store and had them check. The read-out was for "camshaft synchronizer." As soon as the fellow checked the code the check engine light went out. But this made sense to me as I had intended to put a new synchronizer and sensor in as part of the rebuild, but had overlooked it.
So I ordered and installed a new synchronizer and sensor. No check engine light on start up. I drove it about 25 miles and the check engine light came on. It was night time, holiday week-end so it was Tuesday after Xmas when I got to an O'reilly's to have them pull the code. This time it came up synchronizer and sensor, plus crankshaft position sensor. Made no sense to me at all. When I got home I disconnected the battery for about 3 minutes, reconnected and no check engine light.

But again after about 25 miles it came back on. Both of the lights on the 25 mile situation came on after one engine shut off and start up.

My sense is that it is not a sensor issue of any kind but some issue with the computer itself. I have just parked it after driving the 25 miles back with the light on. I know I can disconnect the battery and turn the light off, but sense it will come back on in due time. Does this make sense to any of you out there? And if so, what should I do to resolve the problem?

 

I assume a 3.0l engine?

And there are 5 Cam sensor codes, each means a different thing.

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent

There are actually a few more

Point being you never ever Google a code number
You google OBD code LIST
Then you look up the one code number on that list
Then look at the other code numbers that the computer did NOT USE, that will give you a better starting point to diagnose the actual problem

So what was the exact code number, no "I think it was....", lol

341, 342, and 343 are usually a sensor issue
340 and 344 are usually wiring, can be sensor but wiring is where I would start

 

And I thought I was being cleaver by having the faults printed out, but, of course, the codes are not there. So given your excellent advice I will go and get the numbers tomorrow and take it from there. Thank you!!

 

Did not get to shop to get codes today. But am wondering: what if the the synchronizer is somehow misaligned. How to set it if the "tab" was not properly set with the new install. Can the synchronizer be adjusted to proper position?

 

Read this and recheck your Cam Synch. Camshaft Position (cmp) Sensor.pdf

 

Thanks Grumpa. I have a 2000 Ranger with a 3.0 flex-fuel engine. Here is what I think has happened. When we removed and disassembled the engine the fellow who remove the synchronizer did not mark the tab position. When we reassembled the engine we simply reinstalled the old synchronizer and set to what appeared to be the correct degree. When the check engine light came on with this synchronizer we installed the new one the same way. The issue appears to be the failure to mark the tab position from the very git go. What I am trying to figure out is how to set correctly now. It must be fairly close, the engine runs smooth and easy, but off just enough to trigger the check engine light.

 

The cam sensor synchro runs off the Cam, but is timed by using the Crank
The crank turns at TWICE the speed of the cam, so................don't work unless you set crank timing mark "just so"
At 1,000RPMs cam is tuning at 500RPMs, just FYI, 2 to 1 ratio

So to set Cam sensor you need crank to be on #1 Compression TDC(top dead center), NOT Exhaust TDC.
There is only one #1 TDC mark but because this is the 4-stroke engine(piston goes up and down 4 times) the crank must go around TWO full revolutions to complete 1 full cycle.

You pull out #1 spark plug, and put in a compression gauge, or your finger
Then you manually turn the engine until you start to get compression(pressure) building up in #1, next TDC will be the correct TDC to set Cam sensor with.

And it just needs to be close, computer will compensate for a few degree off