Clutch Issues, Cannot Diagnose
Clutch Issues, Cannot Diagnose
Hi there.
I have a Mazda B2300 manual transmission, and recently started having issues going into gear with the engine running. After opening the master cylinder reservoir and pumping the clutch a few times, it goes back to working fine for the day. I took it to a mechanic and he told me he would have to replace the clutch (for $1500) which doesn't make sense to me as the clutch will work perfectly after messing with the fluid level.
After bleeding the slave cylinder, quite a bit of white gunk came through and the clutch worked fine for another week before having the same problems. I haven't been able to locate any leaks, and I'm not sure what to do next. If anyone has any suggestions that would be fantastic. Do I need a new clutch? Or should I just try to replace the master cylinder?
Thanks!
I have a Mazda B2300 manual transmission, and recently started having issues going into gear with the engine running. After opening the master cylinder reservoir and pumping the clutch a few times, it goes back to working fine for the day. I took it to a mechanic and he told me he would have to replace the clutch (for $1500) which doesn't make sense to me as the clutch will work perfectly after messing with the fluid level.
After bleeding the slave cylinder, quite a bit of white gunk came through and the clutch worked fine for another week before having the same problems. I haven't been able to locate any leaks, and I'm not sure what to do next. If anyone has any suggestions that would be fantastic. Do I need a new clutch? Or should I just try to replace the master cylinder?
Thanks!
Sounds like the master cylinder seals are worn.
The fluid is getting buy them and not pushing the slave cylinder and you get this intermittent clutch disengagement.
It will eventually fail altogether.
If the clutch itself isn't slipping, then it's OK, but if you have to replace the slave cylinder, then when you're in there, the clutch and pressure plate should be replaced.
Start by replacing the master cylinder, and follow this video on bench bleeding the master first.
The 1500 bucks from the mechanic is high because he's going to do the whole thing and replace the slave cylinder as well _ that requires the removal of the transmision.
The fluid is getting buy them and not pushing the slave cylinder and you get this intermittent clutch disengagement.
It will eventually fail altogether.
If the clutch itself isn't slipping, then it's OK, but if you have to replace the slave cylinder, then when you're in there, the clutch and pressure plate should be replaced.
Start by replacing the master cylinder, and follow this video on bench bleeding the master first.
The 1500 bucks from the mechanic is high because he's going to do the whole thing and replace the slave cylinder as well _ that requires the removal of the transmision.
+1 ^^^^
Because the clutch master sits at an angle, air will get trapped at the top and won't stay bled for long, pulls in more air if seals are worn
Not an expensive or hard to do fix
Need to get the whole master setup, master, reservoir and line to slave
Because the clutch master sits at an angle, air will get trapped at the top and won't stay bled for long, pulls in more air if seals are worn
Not an expensive or hard to do fix
Need to get the whole master setup, master, reservoir and line to slave
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