Dash cluster
Dash cluster
Have a 1999 Ranger and the cluster is acting funky, when you first start it the check gage light comes on sometimes the fuel gauge is topped out and temp gauge stays on cold and doesn't move and then it could be the oil pressure reads low or bottomed out completely. Once you drive for a bit the oil pressure needle will bounce a few times and start reading but other two stay as they were?? Have had people say could be the cluster or possibly a ground wire but looking for help. And also temp control switches non of the lights are on not sure if part of same issue?
Welcome to the forum
1996 thru 2003 Ranger clusters are interchangeable, plug and play, just FYI, and all Rangers are wired for Tachometers even if there is not one on the cluster, so you can used either model
Changing the Temp SENDER and/or Oil Pressure Switch is fairly easy and not expensive, its also easy to test these
For Temp sender it will have 2 wires in 1999, red/white and black/white
Unplug the connector and GROUND the red/white wire to battery negative
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go all the way up to HOT, if so red wire and gauge are OK
Now jumper red/white wire and black/white wire together
Turn on key
Gauge should go to HOT, if so replace sender
If not then black/white wire is broken, no longer grounded
(Fuel injected engines have TWO temp units, a sensor, only used by computer, and a sender, only used by temp gauge, they look the same but are not, so look at WIRE COLORS)
Oil Pressure switch just has 1 wire, green/white wire in 1999
Same test, unplug its connector
GROUND the green/white wire to battery negative
Turn on the key, Oil gauge should go up to "normal" range, if so wire and gauge are OK, replace oil switch
On the back of the cluster is a separate module called "anti-slosh module", it's removable, if it fails you will get what you describe, the gas gauge not being accurate and changing needle positions randomly
1996 thru 2003 Ranger clusters are interchangeable, plug and play, just FYI, and all Rangers are wired for Tachometers even if there is not one on the cluster, so you can used either model
Changing the Temp SENDER and/or Oil Pressure Switch is fairly easy and not expensive, its also easy to test these
For Temp sender it will have 2 wires in 1999, red/white and black/white
Unplug the connector and GROUND the red/white wire to battery negative
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go all the way up to HOT, if so red wire and gauge are OK
Now jumper red/white wire and black/white wire together
Turn on key
Gauge should go to HOT, if so replace sender
If not then black/white wire is broken, no longer grounded
(Fuel injected engines have TWO temp units, a sensor, only used by computer, and a sender, only used by temp gauge, they look the same but are not, so look at WIRE COLORS)
Oil Pressure switch just has 1 wire, green/white wire in 1999
Same test, unplug its connector
GROUND the green/white wire to battery negative
Turn on the key, Oil gauge should go up to "normal" range, if so wire and gauge are OK, replace oil switch
On the back of the cluster is a separate module called "anti-slosh module", it's removable, if it fails you will get what you describe, the gas gauge not being accurate and changing needle positions randomly
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