I'm gathering parts to get an 01 3.0 back up in drivable shape and am looking for an answer to 1 question that i can't find anywhere.

The truck had an A/C compressor delete dummy bracket put in years ago but i'm trying to find out if a 2nd alternator can be dropped in its place. I have found dual alt kits that put a 2nd on the bottom passenger side below the factory alt but with this space available right up top it would be an ideal spot.

Is there a kit or does anyone know of someone putting an alternator in the a/c spot in the past just so I can see how big of a headache this is going to be.

 

Welcome to the forum

No kit that I know of

Dual alternator systems can be tricky to wire, you can't just hook them up to one battery/system and have both alternators working at the same time

You can get 150 to 200amp alternators for a 2001 3.0l as far as I know
Which would charge a 2nd battery while driving

Alternators only generate 60% of amp rating at idle, engine under 1,000rpm
They can produce full amp rating at around engine 1,800rpm to 2,000rpm

A 2001 Ranger uses about 45amps with ALL systems on
So these Rangers usually have a 95amp alternator, 95 x 0.6 = 57amps, so fine at idle, if lights dim at idle that means 1 of the 3 fields in alternator has failed, just FYI, common failure

150amp alternator, 150 x 0.6 = 90amps at idle, plenty of extra amps for added electrics or to charge a 2nd battery

If you want a backup alternator, then just buy one to keep in the truck with some tools, lol
But test it, new alternators these days are known to be "bad out of the box"

 

The reason for the additional alternator is for raw power to the stereo system going into it. I can either spend a considerable chunk of money on a single 300+amp alternator and replace the factory or run a 2nd one dedicated to supplying power for the system separate from the factory all together and let it do its thing leaving the full power available. I'm in the early stages of planning the repair and rebuild of the truck so getting as much research in as possible to know which direction i will ultimately be going. It is a small setup so I will only need to power around 10,000 watts give or take a bit.

 

Sound system amperage requirements are quite a different

First on audio watts
2 watts is not twice as loud as 1 watt
10watts is twice as loud as 1 watt
It a times 10 progression

So 1,000watts is twice as loud as 100watts, and you pay alot for that 900watts, for not much gain

A rock concert in an outdoor stadium could be done with 20,000watts but to not work the equipment sao hard and to have some extra "headroom" usually 60,000watts is spec, but for bragging rights they will often quote "500,000watts of power", lol

This is why a 40watt(10watts a channel) car/truck audio system is quite LOUD, lol

Not sure what speakers you are using that will fit in a Ranger????
If speaker is rated for 5,000watts then you could use a 10,000watt amplifier
If speaker is rated for 10,000watts then you would need a 20,000watts amplifier for best results

But in any case your best direction in my opinion would be several large capacitors for bass speakers
A larger rated alternator and a manual throttle cable to hold engine at 2,000rpm when running sound system at max output
Bigger battery would help, as available
Also a 2nd battery that can be used to start the engine only, a manual switch to connect it when/if needed, or a good long set of jumper cables, lol

 

I'm moving the 8k amp and 8 12" subs out of my daily driver suburban into the ranger. Camper shell with rear window removed and boot installed for a blowthrough setup. Power in the back will be a decent sized lithium bank. I have no problem with the audio side, just trying to figure out the ford side of which route to go with the alternator layout.