What pins power the solenoid to close and open on the egr, i run 100 octane as it is because i get deals on it and 4$ a gallon is nothing for me, i dont feel like moving the intake or tranny, just want to unhook it, this is AZ and non emissions regulated zone and no one cares. i put hi flow cats on because the old ones blew out idk why. straight piped it sounded kinda like a track car lol.

 

 

2.3l Duratec uses an EGR with stepper motor, so 4 wires to the PCM

2 power wires, light blue/orange wires, from fuse #41 in engine fuse box, 2002 year model

 

So while the engine is cold start for a second, then turn off, and unplugging fuse 41 should disable the solenoid in the egr right? And cold should be a closed EGR right?

 

There is no solenoid, its a stepper motor
Yes unplugging fuse 41 would disable EGR, also EVAP I think, not sure what else it powers

Why not just unplug its wires?

Yes, EGR systems are not needed/used until engine is warmed up

 

I have big hands and don't want to remove the manifold I'll look in the diagram for fuse 41 and see if Evap system for the fuel is effected

 

What year is it

In 2002 41 also powers O2 sensor heaters

 

2002 model year, are the 02 sensors used for fuel mix... Or is it an early enough model not to care

 

Yes, that's what all upstream O2 sensors are used for, downstream(after Cats) is also used for that but for long term fuel trims and of course to make sure Cats are burning up most of the oxygen, i.e. working

 

I spent an hour trying to unplug the egr, then trying to break the connector, then I did fuse 41, undid the upstream o2 put in my gauge for Air fuel and it made no difference pulling the fuse, it relied on the Maf and Map but otherwise imrc controls are gone and o2 and egr, I put in 91 ran 3 gallons til just empty so I dont strain the pump, no knock, 3 gallons of 89 got a little pinging, ran it through with some octane booster, filled the tank with 100 octane and here are the Dyno numbers at peak and 3k

100 octane : peak 149HP 171 Tq , 3k 97 HP 154TQ
91 : peak 140HP 166Tq. 3k 93Hp 150 tq
89 : 109 HP 120 tq. 3k 84HP 113 tq

The engine pulled timing from the pinging and loss in power, peak was rpms at 6250

I also advanced the intake came to have a 4 degree intersection for lobes

 

My air fuel range was between 14.6 and 14.9

 

So after having it on the highway it kept "overheating" because the coolant sensor in the back next to the egr is on the done line as the fuse for the egr and o2 sensors, so great, I plug it back in and no "overheat", I have a sensor in coolant already for that and max highway temp Wich is 75mph today was peak 96 degrees, max was 193 degrees, I have the clutch fan adjust 5 degrees cooler than stock, so I will be taking the valve cover off puting new rtv in and testing with just the egr unhooked and see, any recommendations, the temps are actually hotter with the egr running u tested it at 205 degrees avg

 

2.3l duratec likes to run warmer, 200-230degF for coolant, head temp 230-260degF

 

Ok good to know, i always assumed 200 was sweet, it keeps giving me the cylnder heatld over temp warning even though it's below 200

 

I'm gonna change out both sensors

 

most engines are 190-220degF coolant