Hi I'm new here so not sure if my post is in the right place.
I need advice.
2009 ranger 2.3 auto 2 whl dr., 200,000 miles
speedo and tach were acting goofy, zero and back to norm over and over
test at autozone says battery low
charged battery, clean all cables, now 12.5 v in battery
next, no crank, no start, anti theft light flashing, dash lights working
replace starter with reman
next, no crank, no start, no power to dash,
next replace ign elec switch under steering column with new switch
no change
next find the Antenna Ring around the ignition key slot looks damaged
Update: anti theft ring circular antenna is not broken but there is a small clip with red/black wire goes into a yellow harness under side of steering column. appears loose
tried black tape for quick fix, nothing
Is there a way to test the circular antenna? (transceiver) Would bad transceiver cause no lights, no power, no crank?

If so can i relpace with new ring from amazon or feebay.

Does new circular antenna (transceiver) need programming or marriage to modules etc

I only have the 1 key since I bought used, and dont need any anti theft for this truck, believe me.
Any help is appreciated and I will add to this forum if I get it fixed so others can use info
thank you

 

Welcome to the forum

The transceiver can be replaced without reprogramming, its just a powered antenna

It uses 4 wires, 2 for 12v/ground, 2 for signal to PATS(passive anti-theft system) which is in the instrument cluster in 2009 Ranger

If your "lock" light flashes rapidly with Key on then yes, PATS is whats causing the no crank/no start

If you let it flash for 1 minute it will start to flash a 2 digit code, that will tell you whats wrong with PATS

1:2 Transceiver not connected

1:3 Key code not received. Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty.

1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key.

1:5 Key not programmed into PATS

1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and Computer


The transceivers do break on these, so best to get a replacement if you think thats the problem

You need to get another PATS key, as a spare, most locksmiths can cut and add/program a new key to your system
A Locksmith can also "clone" your "WORKING" PATS key, working is the key word, they cut a new key then read your working key's number via RFID reader and write that number to a Blank PATS key, so you now have a spare key

There is no "less expensive way" to do this, and no cheap way to disable PATS

If you have 3 failed attempts to start engine with flashing "lock light" then PATS will go into Lockdown mode, thinks someone is trying to steal the vehicle, you will have to wait up to 90 minutes to try again.


Battery voltage needs to be tested AFTER vehicle(or battery) has been sitting for at least 4 hours, overnight is better, do NOT test it just after charging it will be high and a FALSE reading
12.8v is new battery
12.3v is 5/6 year old battery, look for battery sales

12.2v or less is dead battery, end of life

When battery voltage gets to 12.2v or lower when you start the engine the starter motor draw pulls voltage down to 9volts or less and the electronics, like the PATS systems will cause issues
Cranking voltage at the battery should be about 10volts, if you want to test yours

 

Thank you very much.
If the transceiver is bad would that cause total power loss on dash. In the beginning the CEL and other lights all lit now nothing as I am sure i tried key way more than 3x
headlights work horn works
so if i get a new transceiver do i still need a new key or will my original still work. Or is it more like a module?
Thanks again in advance

 

No, PATS would have nothing to do with no dash lights.

That would be bad battery cables, most likely, which would also cause the PATS issue

Battery's have TWO cables, every one focuses on the Positive cable, there is NO Positive unless there is a Negative, simple as that
So if you checked all the Positive cables and have no dash lights then its the Negative cables that are the problem

 

Update
replaced batt cables with brand new
no change
swapped relays under hood
so now has new cables, new starter, new ignition elec switch

batt reads 12.5 v after sitting for 2 days
no crank so unable to test battery during crank
still no dash guages or warning lights

does anyone know where power to dash comes from?
Is there a fuse or relay just for dash warning lights, CEL, seat belts etc?
thank you

 

The ignition switch gets power from one wire and one fuse in the engine bay fuse box, 40amp fuse, in 2008 Ranger its fuse #9

Instrument cluster gets power from ignition switch via fuses 9(5amp) and 10(10amp) in cab fuse box, again thats 2008 wiring

You can download 2009 owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

It will have fuse layouts and what they are for, 4cyl engine Rangers are different than V6 so there are two different layouts

 

thank you the file is very helpful.
i found a 30a fuse blown and now have dash warning lights.
anti theft blink 1---6 flashes which indicates Faulty link between PATS module and Computer
if the pats module is bad do i need to buy new and have programmed at the stealership?
is it possible to test the ring transceiver surrounding ignition key cylinder switch or any test for key with chip?
thanks again

 

Does anyone know what the small clip in pic does? Circled in red. It appears to be a clip on sensor at the ignition cylinder.
The black wire goes into the yellow harness.
Thanks

 

PATS module is in the instrument cluster in 2004-2011 Rangers, so you would need a new Cluster and only a dealer can provide that, these HEC Cluster are not swappable, PCM and cluster are "married"

No real way to test Transceivers, just get one from wrecking yard or get a new one, but if that was the problem you would get a code for it

You could get Forscan and run some tests with it, read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...orscan.173705/

 

So the flashing code 1:6 "Faulty link between PATS module and Computer" indicates a bad cluster?
Hard to believe Ford doesn;t have a better system than this, soon I will have more $$$ in parts than I paid for the truck

 

Might be worth pulling the instrument cluster out and checking all the electrical connections, loose, corrosion.

 

No, doesn't mean bad cluster or bad PCM(computer) it means they are "not talking" to each other on the data network
Like if your Printer and computer can't "talk" it doesn't mean either is bad.

As 2011supercab said check wiring on BOTH, unplug and plug back in any connectors, that cleans them

Also unhook battery for at least 5 minutes, that will make the PATS and computer reboot on start up, which reloads original factory software

 

Still no luck.
I havent removed the dash yet, was hoping I wouldnt need to. This whole mess started because I removed my batt cables to clean them.
2009 ranger 2.3eng, 2 whl dr auto trans, 200K miles
I fiddled with the relay box under hood tyhe other day and truck started. I thought it was fixed and started putting steer column back together and then tried again and no start
flashing code 1:6 again.
I went to scrapyard and got a handful of fuses and relays.
when i got home i saw my relays in truck had 4 blade contacts and the relays I got at scrapyard have 5
They do fit but will a 5 blade relay work where I originally had 4 blades?

Next I disconected transceiver from ign key switcha nd got flashing code 1:1
Any clue what that means
replaced wire and flashes back to 1:6
I feel its a loose wire or corroded wire in or around relay box or was it just luck that it started and prob bad key or transceiver
I hate to keep throwing parts at this
Thanks for any suggestions

 

Just took dash cluster out unplugged boyh wire harness and all looks fine
put back together still no crank, no start, flashing code 1:6
guess i need a new key next

 

1:6 means PATS is reading the key just fine thru transceiver, but can't "talk" to computer

1:1 can mean no Transceiver same as 1:2

Check Fuse #11 in engine fuse box, that powers up the computer
Also PCM relay is used for that as well

1:6 seems to come about when there is/was a battery issue, lower voltage causes PCM to shut down so PATS module can't "talk" to it

 

I went to scrapyard and got a handful of fuses and relays.
when i got home i saw my relays in truck had 4 blade contacts and the relays I got at scrapyard have 5
They do fit but will a 5 blade relay work where I originally had 4 blades?





thank you

 

I went to scrapyard and got a handful of fuses and relays.
when i got home i saw my relays in truck had 4 blade contacts and the relays I got at scrapyard have 5
They do fit but will a 5 blade relay work where I originally had 4 blades?





thank you

 

Yes, 5 blade will work in place of 4 blade

 

Does anyone have a link to the PCM pinout for 2009 ranger with 2.3 eng?
Thanks

 

Here they are

 

If you have the PCM out, you might want to pop the cover off and see what it looks like, water damage, burned spots, blown capacitors.

Make sure battery is disconnected before unplugging PCM.

 

TGhank you,
I am trying to find out if I have a bad power or ground to the PCM. There are 3 connectors going to pcm and various wires have power but I am unsure if all that need power have power or grounds where needed.

If I shorted a wire under dash when replacing ign switch (under column) would you think I fried the PCM or more likely the dash cluster? At one point I blew a green fuse unber the hood in fuse block, I dont recall if it was 30 or 40amp
Thanks

 

I split open the PCM and everything looks great, clean, no burnt areas as far as I can tell

I guess I'll order a dash cluster next. very frustrating.

If ford can make computrers to do all these things why cant they make a diagnostic testing unit that works in minutes and tells what the culprit is.

$105 an hour is a bit too expensive to guess at problems

 

You can't replace the cluster yourself on 2004 and up Rangers, cluster(HEC) and computer(PCM) are married at the factory, so become a matched set, to change either one a Ford Dealer needs to remarry them

When you turn on the key the CEL(check engine light) should come on, that means the computer is booting up, has power
The THEFT Light(padlock) should also come on and then go off, if it flashes rapidly then Startup is disabled, if you wait 60 seconds the THEFT light will start to flash a 2 digit code
Get that code, 11 to 19, no 0's, lol, there may be some 21-29, but never seen those myself

OBD2 reader should show codes set if this is a computer or cluster issue, so there are diagnostics for this
If OBD2 reader can't connect then could be PCM was damaged or OBD fuse is blown, cigarette lighter fuse, or if there are no codes then problem is mechanical not electronic

The HEC cluster also has a test mode, read here: http://www.carlogic.org/bg/data/Ford...ler%20mode.pdf

 

Does anyone know what this clip is and what it does ? Mine is disconnected and I’m having PATS issues. I changed the transceiver and had the dealership re program my PATS system. Everything worked for a week but then stopped working and I found this clip disconnected. Please help lol