Here about a few weeks ago my engine would rev up when I would change gears. When I push in the clutch the rpm's will race up about 1000-2000 rpm's. Would that be a sensor like the throttle sensor or the throttle cable or what could it be?

 

take your foot off the gas pedal whenever you shift

 

Yeah I thought that was it too so I stopped and hit myself in the package and thought "hey take your foot off the gas pedal".

Well any other opinions?

Foot is off gas when I push the clutch in. I think I know how to drive a stick since I have been doing it for about 10 years now.

 

Some RPM hang between shifts is beneficial for emissions reasons. It is there by design and you will never eliminate it completely. If it is excessive, there is a small possibility that the TPS signal voltage might possibly be out spec. Acceptable closed throttle voltage is between 0.53v and 1.25v, most are around 0.9~1.0v from the assembly line.

 

mine is similar, except it either goes up about 100-200 rpms, or the rpms will freeze for a second or two before droping. However, if I was already coasting, and then pushed the clutch in, the rpms would imediately drop.

 

Most common reason is either a dirty throttle body or a vacuum leak.

Is the throttle a little sticky when coming off the close position?


I once had a saturn SL2 that did this and I could'nt figure out why. Turned out to be the temp senor for the PCM. Go figure..

Rich

 

Hey Jason, Our trucks are very similar.

The rpm IS held up during a normal shift, but not for very long, and never very high - it basically just hangs for a second (like you were used to).

As long as your truck is ROLLING more than 5 mph, your idle will stay at ~1000 rpm.

Once you stop (< 5 mph), then it will drop to 700 or so.


It sounds like your rpms are climbing between shifts and that is NOT NORMAL for our year. The FIRST thing I would do (if I were you) is clean the throttle body and lubricate the throttle cable (BOTH ends). The TB may not be closing fully due to crud build-up at the butterfly. That goes hand-in-hand with Bob's TPS voltage advice, however the TPS may be just fine but the TB is cruddy (and not fully closing). If you've never cleaned your TB, start there (I use Deep Creep with a spray and soak first, then I start it and spray while revving).

While you are cleaning things, remove and clean the IAC and its port. Then clean your MAF sensor (buy MAF cleaner for this), especially if you use an oiled-gauze filter element, like a K&N (like I have).

Make sure all your connections from the TB to the airbox are tight. Check that PVC line connection about 1/2 way. (Clean or) replace your PCV valve and inspect its elbow and line for cracks, etc.

Inspect your vacuum tubes in the engine compartment. There is a trick where you spray carb cleaner around suspected vacuum leak areas, like the intake gasket. That may prove helpful too. Any change in idle rpm while you are spraying indicates a leak spot.


All of the things I mentioned are EASY, BASIC steps that ANYBODY can do with a few simple hand tools; just take care not to break things. Search on the key words I used (IAC, MAF, PVC, etc) and read up on it if any of this is new to you.

Please let us know how you fare.

 

or....hehe....he has the cruise control set and he pushes in the clutch. REVV!

 

My 2000 did that same thing sporatically for about a week, but it then went away shortly after installing a new IAC.

 

Thanks guys for the info. Ill try all that. Sometimes it wont do it for like a week or so then it will do it one day for all day. It will go up 1000 or even 2500 rpm's from normal. Ill replace my PVC and clean the throttle body. Ill check for vacuum leaks and all that.

And I do not have cruise control. That would have been real nice with my trip back home from Las Vegas to Springfield Ohio. Vegas is where I bought the truck. My wife and I drove it straight non stop from vegas to home. like 30 some hours.

 

is this an issue on the 98's as well?

I'm having the exact same problem... engine revs up way high... like 3500 rpm range.... I can go a week with no issues... then a week with it doing it at every stop.

Jason, did you fix yours?

 

I would imagine so. My old 96' use to do it and my current 02' does it every now and then. I usually just tap the gas pedal when it is in neutral and reving high and the rpms will drop back down.

 

what about the sensor in the airbox or is that only the old ranger that have it

 

I dont have that problem. My 98 shifts fine, it holds the RPM's for a split second then drops straight down.

 

Definitely the IAC, as BWester04 pointed out already. Happened to me when mine was new in 1999. Took the dealership many visits and attempts to replicate to finally figure it out. After that part was replaced, it was fine until this year when it started occurring again. Remove and replace, and back to normal again.

 

This thread ended in 2010.................................

Just FYI

 

Thanks, Ron. Better late than never, I guess, since it's a searchable source for information on Rangers that pops up early in the list on Google. Problem was particularly frustrating for me when the truck was new and the dealer had no clue. All the best....

 

You’re going to think I’m crazy but change the ABS sensor in the rear end of the truck. Mine did the same thing for three years spent hundreds of dollars come to find out Ford uses the ABS sensor as a speed sensor