Replace rear brakes?
#1
Replace rear brakes?
I am wanting to replace my back brake pads and have never done so. I have replaced my front before and it wasnt to bad.
Can some one list the steps and tools that are needed for the job. Like I said I have never done a drum brake set up.
Also do I have to get the drums turned?
If you know of a "how to" can you list that because I need to get all the information I can.
Can some one list the steps and tools that are needed for the job. Like I said I have never done a drum brake set up.
Also do I have to get the drums turned?
If you know of a "how to" can you list that because I need to get all the information I can.
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Ditto on the only do one side at a time. Just my opinion, Haynes would not be much help with this. Just leave the other side alone and buy a spring tool and dismantle one side. Clean liberally with brake cleaner to remove gunk and buildup. If not, things will start to stick eventually. Also, there is special brake drum grease that you need to put dabs on the backing plate where the shoes rub. You will see shiny spots on the backing plate. Every place you see a shiny spot, put a little grease there. That helps prevent sticking and especially noise when applying the brakes. At the bottom where the shoes meet, you will see an adjuster screw with teeth on it. That is the self adjuster. Brake shoes have to be adjusted unlike disks. If they are functioning correctly, they adjust every time you apply the brakes IN REVERSE ONLY. You will need to screw the adjuster in so you can get your drum back on. One end of the spring tool should have a flat end on it that you use to screw that back out some once the drum is on. You should hear light dragging when spinning the drum if it is adjusted correctly. There is a rubber plug in the back side of the backing plate that you remove to insert the tool and spin the adjuster. Just practice this while the drum is still off so you get the feel for it. This sounds complicated but just make sure you have a few hours for your first time and be patient and you will be fine. I have never understood why people pay 300-400 bucks for this work when there is nothing complicated involved, it is only time consuming. Also, if you lose or break a piece taking it apart, don't go to Ford. Napa sells everything inside the drum so no sweat. If your truck has a bunch of miles on it you could take the drum and have it measured to see if it is safe. There is a maximum diameter stamped in the drum. If it is fairly low miles it won't need turned unless you feel a pulsing in the pedal when you push it down. That means it is out of round. If the steering wheel pulses when you brake that means the rotors on the front are out of round but pulsing in the pedal only means the rear drums. Hope that helps somewhat.
#11
Another ditto on the big shoe small shoe post. The problem is if someone else replaced them incorrectly, then you will put them back incorrectly. The large shoe goes towards the front of the truck since it does more of the braking.
You will be fine. Everyone here seems very helpful. I just signed up today cause it is raining here and I was bored surfing the net. Seems like a nice bunch of people
You will be fine. Everyone here seems very helpful. I just signed up today cause it is raining here and I was bored surfing the net. Seems like a nice bunch of people
#12
You don't really need the spoon to back off the adjusters. If you don't want to buy the spring tool use a needlenose vise-grips or a piece of wire for the springs. It's easy to do, not bad at all. When checking the wheel cylinders for leakage, gently peel back the rubber covers and look for leaks, re-seat them after you peel them back.
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I get what everyone is saying about replacing wheel cylinders but this is a waste of money if they aren't leaking. Also, this guy is new to this and if he replaces those then he is into bleeding brakes which I doubt he is familiar with and if you aren't careful and get air in the abs pump then it will have to go to the dealer to get bled properly. I would leave those alone unless they are seeping fluid.
#17
the rebuild spring kit
wheel cylinders
spring tool, brake spoon
no grease on brakes, anti-seize on shoe wear spots and some on the adjuster, little on the wheel studs when you go to put the wheel back on..
hammer/sledge maybe if the rear drum is stuck on because of the lip on the drum.
couple wrenches
brake fluid when you bleed the brakes after putting on the wheel cylinders
that should be it but i might be missing something
#18
I get what everyone is saying about replacing wheel cylinders but this is a waste of money if they aren't leaking. Also, this guy is new to this and if he replaces those then he is into bleeding brakes which I doubt he is familiar with and if you aren't careful and get air in the abs pump then it will have to go to the dealer to get bled properly. I would leave those alone unless they are seeping fluid.
#19
I understand exactly what you are saying and I agree. I do the whole works at one time myself to keep from having to go back in also. Leaking cylinders will ruin shoes. I just wouldn't want him to bite off more than he can chew so to speak. After all, the brakes are fairly important. But let's be serious, if you took it to Midas or Ford either one and gave them $200, it would get shoes and that's it. No cleaning, no grease, no turning of drums no wheel cylinders. So that means there are tens of thousands of them running around like that. Doesn't mean it's right but they are still all stopping somehow.
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Unregistered User
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WRONG!!!!
the secondary shoe always has more friction material and always goes to the rear. the primary shoe will always have less friction material and faces the front and does the most work.
this is one of the easiest questions that is on the ASE test and you sir would fail.
edit: never use anti-sieze on wheel studs!
#23
FAIL!!!!!
WRONG!!!!
the secondary shoe always has more friction material and always goes to the rear. the primary shoe will always have less friction material and faces the front and does the most work.
this is one of the easiest questions that is on the ASE test and you sir would fail.
edit: never use anti-sieze on wheel studs!
WRONG!!!!
the secondary shoe always has more friction material and always goes to the rear. the primary shoe will always have less friction material and faces the front and does the most work.
this is one of the easiest questions that is on the ASE test and you sir would fail.
edit: never use anti-sieze on wheel studs!
Not always is it that way
#24
Stone, I replaced my front brakes about a 1 1/2 ago and it was pretty straight forward. I just like asking alot of questions and making sure I know what I am getting my self into.