External regulated alternator??
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And the modern regulators work by pulse width modulation to produce a variable field current. What this means is no big, heat producing resistors, no large heat sinks required for the transistors, and no "thresholds" where the regulator switches mode like on very old systems. It is a true regulator that TRIES to acheive a constant voltage output.
The most significant effect on output (other than load) is temperature. The integrated regulator senses the alternator temperature and folds the output voltage back as the alternator gets hot. You can observe this by monitoring the output. After the engine is first started, rev the motor and you'll have more than 14 volts. As the engine compartment and alternator heat up, the voltage at the same RPM will drop towards 13 volts some amount.
Just some random info on the alternator regulator....
The most significant effect on output (other than load) is temperature. The integrated regulator senses the alternator temperature and folds the output voltage back as the alternator gets hot. You can observe this by monitoring the output. After the engine is first started, rev the motor and you'll have more than 14 volts. As the engine compartment and alternator heat up, the voltage at the same RPM will drop towards 13 volts some amount.
Just some random info on the alternator regulator....
#7
Exactly right, John, and here's how.
Tom, the regulator is a small black box that the connector plugs into on the back of the alternator. The connector faces up.
The box attaches to the alternator with 6 screws. Four of them are at the corners of the "box", and two are slightly raised, and close to the back end bearing cap/seal.
They can actually be labeled "F" and "A" -- but may not be. But, as the alternator is mounted, the one closest to the ground is the one you want. It may be labeled "Ground here to test".
That is the "ground side" of the field (rotor). It is what's switched to ground with pulses to regulate the output. If you put a lug/wire under that screw and ground it, you'll get unregulated output.
I suppose your welder warns you not to have it connected to your battery directly in those situations? It would be pushing some serious amps into it -- I haven't seen how they tell you to connect it.
Sorry, the camera's in the truck and I'm cold and lazy. If my description doesn't do it for you, I'll get a picture.
Edit: Here's a picture. The alternator is turned on it's side here, so the left most, inner screw in the regulator is the one you want.
Tom, the regulator is a small black box that the connector plugs into on the back of the alternator. The connector faces up.
The box attaches to the alternator with 6 screws. Four of them are at the corners of the "box", and two are slightly raised, and close to the back end bearing cap/seal.
They can actually be labeled "F" and "A" -- but may not be. But, as the alternator is mounted, the one closest to the ground is the one you want. It may be labeled "Ground here to test".
That is the "ground side" of the field (rotor). It is what's switched to ground with pulses to regulate the output. If you put a lug/wire under that screw and ground it, you'll get unregulated output.
I suppose your welder warns you not to have it connected to your battery directly in those situations? It would be pushing some serious amps into it -- I haven't seen how they tell you to connect it.
Sorry, the camera's in the truck and I'm cold and lazy. If my description doesn't do it for you, I'll get a picture.
Edit: Here's a picture. The alternator is turned on it's side here, so the left most, inner screw in the regulator is the one you want.
Last edited by n3elz; 11-22-2005 at 07:20 PM.
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Originally Posted by TBarCYa
No, it's a homemade welder that uses a power supply from Napa and unregulated output from the alternator to make sparks. I'm sure there are directions that come with the power supply, but I havn't gotten the power supply yet.
#12
Ha ha! He said "euthanising"...
Seriously though, if he's disconnected the hot lead he should be okay overall. Despite the schematic shown in the Ford manual, there is no internal connection between the battery terminal and the field terminal, so the current that flows out that terminal and back through ground shouldn't effect the trucks systems, which will be running off the battery. It will be ESSENTIAL to isolate the alternator hot from the trucks electrical system to do this.
We do offroading, John, and I'm sure Tom's thinking of trail breakage (which we have already experienced even with the relatively mild wheeling we do). He welds for a living now and so his abilities to take care of business with minimal equipment are getting pretty developed and I wouldn't mind having a welder with equipment along on a trip at all, lol.
Seriously though, if he's disconnected the hot lead he should be okay overall. Despite the schematic shown in the Ford manual, there is no internal connection between the battery terminal and the field terminal, so the current that flows out that terminal and back through ground shouldn't effect the trucks systems, which will be running off the battery. It will be ESSENTIAL to isolate the alternator hot from the trucks electrical system to do this.
We do offroading, John, and I'm sure Tom's thinking of trail breakage (which we have already experienced even with the relatively mild wheeling we do). He welds for a living now and so his abilities to take care of business with minimal equipment are getting pretty developed and I wouldn't mind having a welder with equipment along on a trip at all, lol.
#13
I like to wheel alone so the more self-sufficient my rig is, the more safe I will be wheeling alone. Right now, my truck has two batteries so the electrical system is somewhat redundant (always have a backup battery) and I am looking into an onboard air compressor that runs from the serpentine belt as well as the welder. All of these things combined means there isn't much that I can't fix on the trail which increases my chances of being able to drive home.
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Was that an automotive compressor or something adapted? I believe I've heard or that or read about it somewhere. How do you lubricate them? I think they are normally lubed by oil in the refrigerant?
Sorry for the questions -- if you don't know that's cool and I'll just research it. Thanks for the tip either way!
Sorry for the questions -- if you don't know that's cool and I'll just research it. Thanks for the tip either way!
#19
there are basicly two types of yorks, I know one is better then the other but not sure of the part number I can find out for you if you need to know. Just remember that an ac compressor put out alot of pressure so you have to use a pressure regulator of some sort. There was a offroad mag that did a write up on this but can not think of it off hand. I will e-mail my friend tommrow to get a how to for ya. An for the oiling they just used some slick 50 and a small kand n on the air intake.
#20
I just found one reference that was pretty good about jeeps doing it for any who are interested. Talks about the types also.
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html
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