F150 pinion seal
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 879
Likes: 2
From: OC, CA
Nope. You will need an air impact to get the pinion nut tight enough when reinstalling it though. Tq specs is something like 300 lb/ft... All you gotta go is pull the pinion nut and then pry the old seal out with a flat blade, be careful not to mess up the sealing surface on the housing and the put the new one in. It may take some careful tapping to get it in, just make sure its in straight and flush... I used some silicone lubricant on mine to get it to slide in and seal... Reinstall and your good to go. Be sure to top of fluid.
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 0
From: Fuquay Varina, NC
the pinion nut is difficult to do correctly, you must tighten it to the torque it took to remove the nut. you need to be able to measure how much force is required to remove the nut, so you can put it back exaclty like that. if you dont put the nut back PERFECTLY, then you could over or under tighten by just a few foot pounds and the gears will whine or wear down. personally its something i would take to a shop
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by 3LiterBeater
Nope. You will need an air impact to get the pinion nut tight enough when reinstalling it though. Tq specs is something like 300 lb/ft... All you gotta go is pull the pinion nut and then pry the old seal out with a flat blade, be careful not to mess up the sealing surface on the housing and the put the new one in. It may take some careful tapping to get it in, just make sure its in straight and flush... I used some silicone lubricant on mine to get it to slide in and seal... Reinstall and your good to go. Be sure to top of fluid.
list of parts you will need
one new pinion nut (ford)
one new crush washer (ford)
one new pinion seal (whoever)
maybe one bottle of axle fluid
you will need a torque wrench, DO NOT use a impact gun to tighten (preload) the pinion nut!
the crush washer is a "one time" use only part and can not be reused.
bob is somewhat correct with his comments.
get a manual and read what is says for adjusting the pinion pre-load.
its to long for me to type and i'm tired.
Find me a shop that will actually dis-assemble a diff to replace the crush sleeve for a damn pinion seal.
None around here that i know of. You can't do it fast enough to make any money tearing the diff apart. I've done PLENTY of them just removing the nut, yoke and replacing the seal and re-torqueing the nut+yoke to proper bearing pre-load and NEVER had any come backs or problems with gear noise, premature wear/bearing failure.
None around here that i know of. You can't do it fast enough to make any money tearing the diff apart. I've done PLENTY of them just removing the nut, yoke and replacing the seal and re-torqueing the nut+yoke to proper bearing pre-load and NEVER had any come backs or problems with gear noise, premature wear/bearing failure.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 879
Likes: 2
From: OC, CA
Originally Posted by 034x4
Find me a shop that will actually dis-assemble a diff to replace the crush sleeve for a damn pinion seal.
None around here that i know of. You can't do it fast enough to make any money tearing the diff apart. I've done PLENTY of them just removing the nut, yoke and replacing the seal and re-torqueing the nut+yoke to proper bearing pre-load and NEVER had any come backs or problems with gear noise, premature wear/bearing failure.
None around here that i know of. You can't do it fast enough to make any money tearing the diff apart. I've done PLENTY of them just removing the nut, yoke and replacing the seal and re-torqueing the nut+yoke to proper bearing pre-load and NEVER had any come backs or problems with gear noise, premature wear/bearing failure.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 879
Likes: 2
From: OC, CA
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
this statement is 100% incorrect!
list of parts you will need
one new pinion nut (ford)
one new crush washer (ford)
one new pinion seal (whoever)
maybe one bottle of axle fluid
you will need a torque wrench, DO NOT use a impact gun to tighten (preload) the pinion nut!the crush washer is a "one time" use only part and can not be reused.
bob is somewhat correct with his comments.
get a manual and read what is says for adjusting the pinion pre-load.
its to long for me to type and i'm tired.
list of parts you will need
one new pinion nut (ford)
one new crush washer (ford)
one new pinion seal (whoever)
maybe one bottle of axle fluid
you will need a torque wrench, DO NOT use a impact gun to tighten (preload) the pinion nut!the crush washer is a "one time" use only part and can not be reused.
bob is somewhat correct with his comments.
get a manual and read what is says for adjusting the pinion pre-load.
its to long for me to type and i'm tired.
Originally Posted by 3LiterBeater
Maybe a 6 footer with the truck up on a lift...
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
well neither of you have ever had a ford 8.8 apart i guess.
once you back the nut off and remove the flange you can then remove the seal, bearing then crush washer in that order.
my 1/2" matco torque wrench goes to 300 foot pounds and is just about 36 inches long.
if you do not replace the crush washer anytime the pinion nut is loosened you will have major bearing/pinion/ring gear problems down the road trust me!
drive axles (4x4's) and manual transaxles is my strong area and it showed with my ASE test results, only missed one question.
do you honestly think ford puts them together the way you guys are telling him to do it?
once you back the nut off and remove the flange you can then remove the seal, bearing then crush washer in that order.
my 1/2" matco torque wrench goes to 300 foot pounds and is just about 36 inches long.
if you do not replace the crush washer anytime the pinion nut is loosened you will have major bearing/pinion/ring gear problems down the road trust me!
drive axles (4x4's) and manual transaxles is my strong area and it showed with my ASE test results, only missed one question.
do you honestly think ford puts them together the way you guys are telling him to do it?
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
go take a few tests and tell all on RF how well you guys do
he asked for the proper way to fix this problem and you guys are telling him how to mangle it, in my line of work and at the scale i am at i have one word to call hacks like you, "butchers" well maybe two words, "wanna be's" "shade trees"
he asked for the proper way to fix this problem and you guys are telling him how to mangle it, in my line of work and at the scale i am at i have one word to call hacks like you, "butchers" well maybe two words, "wanna be's" "shade trees"
lol this is fawkin sad. "i have ase's so i can call anyone who doesn't masterbate to certifications that are a joke shade tree's".
This is rediculous man. I've already been through 1 year at a tech college for automotive. And i've taken many old ASE tests in many of my classes.
Let me put it this way, one guy FLUNKED out of the course at my college, got a job at a dealership and PAST his ASE's.......you tell me.
This is rediculous man. I've already been through 1 year at a tech college for automotive. And i've taken many old ASE tests in many of my classes.
Let me put it this way, one guy FLUNKED out of the course at my college, got a job at a dealership and PAST his ASE's.......you tell me.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 879
Likes: 2
From: OC, CA
Hahaha. This is great. ASE guys think their shiat don't stink. I replaced my pinion seal 12k miles ago.. with an impact, without a new crush sleeve, and its yet to whine, break, snap, wear, leak, etc. I guess now that I know I did it all wrong and "butchered" it I should run down to an *** certified master super duper technician and pay him 70 bucks/hr more than hes worth to do it the "RIGHT" way...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
