Factory fog light install????? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 04-18-2016
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If you're going to make up a harness, make it easier on yourself and run your own. Trying to find out where half the wiring ends then finishing where ford left off is just a headache.

The circuit we need to work the foglights is incredibly simple, but we can make changes to it to act OEM.

The core principle is a relay operated by a switch of your choice, either OEM or aftermarket, but none the less a switch. The switch will activate the low side (coil) of the relay, allowing the high side of the relay's contacts to close and switch the lights on.

A simple four pin relay, a switch of your choice (so long that it's not momentary), fog lights of your choice, a fuse tap, wire, some solder as well as the matching iron.

This is the circuit we're going to build.

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There isn't much to say, except for two things. One, your wire needs to be of the appropriate size.



Use this chart to approximate what gauge wire you need. 20 amps should be just fine, as the factory fog lights (I believe, confirm the true rating for 2004 with your owners manual) is 15 amps, which means there's 5 amps of a safety margin.


And two, for the fog lamps to work like the factory lamps, we need a power source that is live only when the headlight switch is on. We can pick this up quickly and easily simply from the HVAC. On the rear of the HVAC panel (climate controls) you should see a simple two pin plug with one black and one colored wire. Simply steal power from the colored wire, bring it over to your switch and follow the rest of the diagram as it's shown.

With the switch taking it's power from the HVAC's backlighting, the switch can only energize the coil, thus closing the relay and turning the lights on, when the headlight switch is on, just like OEM.

The indicator is completely optional, and some switches even have indicators built in. The choice is yours. Factory, aftermarket, whatever suits your tastes.

Also, for running wires through the firewall, you can make use of existing grommets. Push an ice pick through first to break the seal, and stuff the wire through to the other side. There should be one near the brake pedal, but not with a rod sticking through it. You may want to use some silicone spray to help lubricate the wire. Since it's going through a rubber grommet we don't have to worry about it getting chafed.
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  #27  
Old 04-19-2016
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I appreciate everything you have shown me. I was a wrench turner in the U.S. Navy for 27 years, so mechanical is not too much of a problem for me (so long as it is not connected to a computer). You have made this very simple, answered every question I could have even thought of. The only thing wrong with all this is, my Sunday man excursion just disappeared . But now I get to order all the parts I need. . My wife will hate you. Thanks again, will let you know how it all turns out.
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  #28  
Old 04-20-2016
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Any time, glad I was of help. Wiring is one of the few things I'm pretty good at.
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  #29  
Old 04-23-2016
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Have ordered everything I think I will need. Looking at the A/C panel and if I am reading the schematics correctly,this is a 22 gauge wire. Again, if I am reading the schematics correctly, the largest wire is 18 gauge. Everything seems to be fairly easy after all that. My next question for you involves the power to the lights themselves. Should I run two separate wires or splice two wires into the power from the relay? Does it matter if my fuse link has 12 gauge wire?

Last edited by OzzieinAZ; 04-23-2016 at 09:38 PM.
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  #30  
Old 04-23-2016
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As long as you're running the recommended gauge for the current draw and length of your application you'll be fine. You can match the size to the fuse holder if you want, so long as it doesn't go below the rated value according to the chart.

Probably the best way to run power to each light is to have two wires coming from the relay itself and ran to each light while avoiding hot/moving parts. I would take the crimp connector you have coming from the relay (going to the lights) and stuff two wires into that crimp connector, each wire long enough to reach each light. Crimp it down nice and tight and you're golden.

Door number 2 is slightly more complicated but will also get the job done. Run one wire from the relay to your light, then splice into the first wire to carry it over to fog light number two. However, wire number one must be double the size because it will be carrying twice the amount of current since two fog lights are on one wire. It can be done, but it's not what I would do, personally.

Not sure if I mentioned it before, but I would highly recommend running your wires through some plastic split loom to protect them. It's cheap as dirt can be bought online or at a hardware store. I've attached a pic of what it looks like, if you're unfamiliar.

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  #31  
Old 04-23-2016
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So , if I understand correctly, going larger is okay, just not smaller. I think the idea of two individual wires coming from the relay is a better idea. Thanks for the info on the wire loom. Will know in abut a week or so if I screwed things up. It won't be for the lack of some good information.
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  #32  
Old 04-24-2016
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Yes: larger yes - smaller no. Although, if you go too large you will see a little loss in capabilities from that circuit, but you'd have to go really really large, like running 4 gauge wire to see that. I tend to use 14 gauge wire for most applications, although I've also used 12, 16, and 18. I doubt anything will go wrong. If you do wire something wrong, the fuse should protect you.

Which reminds me. Have your inline fuse within a foot of the battery connection otherwise the fuse won't work. Not sure why but, that's how it is.
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  #33  
Old 04-24-2016
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I am going with 12 for everything but the switch. The power wire is 22 gauge, so was thinking of staying with it. Not sure if it is good idea of going from 22 to 18 or 12. Hopefully no problems. You have been very patient in your instructions. Can't wait to see how it all turns out, and will definitely have the fuse within a foot of the battery. Plan on placing the relay on the engine compartment side wall, right by the battery.
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  #34  
Old 04-24-2016
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I placed my reverse light relay there using an existing bolt. Works well.

As for going from gauge to gauge, on the switch (coil) side of the relay, that draws practically nothing. Feel free to use whatever gauge is handy for that side. As for the side that the actual current flows through with the fogs, definately stick to the ratings calculated earlier. Surprisingly most of the wires on the Ranger are mostly the same size, with a few thicker exceptions.

And yeah, I'm very patient. We don't start knowing everything. If we did, we wouldn't have forums and if I didn't want to answer questions and help people, I sure as heck wouldn't even try lol.

If you don't have one, a good multimeter is something you'll really want to have. I've got one that can measure quite a bit and is auto ranging. Manual ranging is just a PITA, especially if you don't know what value you're expecting. I've linked a multimeter tutorial and the link to the multimeter I use on amazon. Multimeters are basically invaluable. A little test light is good for some things, but it fails to tell you a lot. You'll know if voltage is present (say at a battery for example) but if the terminals aren't labeled, you won't know which is positive or which is negative which tends to matter in quite a few areas.


My multimeter is the green and black one listed for 27.99; (Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter) and it has more features than you'll probably ever need for an incredible price. To put it in perspective, a cheap multimeter I can get at a hardware store can only measure voltage and resistance and is manual ranging for 15 dollars plus tax and the gas to get there and back. A meter like this is usually 50-60 or more, usually more though.

Amazon.com: Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter: Industrial & Scientific
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  #35  
Old 04-28-2016
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I was around the net and other board for some info about Ranger and run across this site with a good old post about fog light installation for Rangers with blank-off plates, see Ponyguy's post.

fog light wiring

Last edited by blurayX; 04-28-2016 at 11:49 PM.
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  #36  
Old 04-29-2016
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A little PO'ed right now. Finally got the valance in, and it is the wrong one. I have 2004 Ford Ranger Extended Cab, 4.0 liter engine and that is what I ordered the valance for. Got a valance with an upsweep for the 4 X 4. Mine does not have the upsweep. Is there another valance that matches mine that has fog lamp orifices?
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  #37  
Old 04-29-2016
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Not that I'm aware of. I'd either file a complaint or use that to your advantage and get a matching upper piece for a bit of an upgrade. You can get a new top bumper in either primer or chrome for 125.
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  #38  
Old 04-30-2016
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If I can return the valance, I can get a complete replament for about $50 more than what I paid for the valance.
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  #39  
Old 04-30-2016
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I did a quick ebay search for both 2004 and 2002, and all I could find were the styles with the upsweep, with either round or square fog lamps.

I also looked on rock auto, and there weren't any available matching your desires.

So at this point you're going to have to do one of two things, it appears. One: Keep the valance you ordered then order a top piece for it as well as some fog light housings or two: send that one back and put some fog lights in the gap of the bumper between the valance and the bumper itself; where tow hooks would normally be.

The former of the two, although more expensive, will produce better results.
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  #40  
Old 05-02-2016
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Ford made two bumpers. Have found one on E-Bay for about $125. Checked into shipping the valance back, and the cheapest was about $210. Asked a question of the Seller just to be sure. It is for the the Ford Ranger 4X4, which had the fog lamp valance.. All I need now is the pig tails for the lamps. Will go to the parts store this weekend and see if I can find what I require. This is almost turning into a pain . Good thing I have a high thresh hold. Great deal on the multimeter. Thanks.
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  #41  
Old 05-02-2016
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You're welcome. You can find H10 (9145) / HB3 (9005) plugs for bulbs on ebay. I got a ceramic set for.....oh.... five dollars for a pair? Either way, insanely cheap. I buy a lot of things online, mostly because in-store is usually a lot higher than what I'm willing to pay.

A good example are halogen bulbs. 60 dollars for a pair at the store? No thank you. I bought a pair of 9007 Nighthawk platinum bulbs for 12 bucks brand new, shipped. I don't believe in paying 60 bucks for something as simple as halogen gas and a tungsten filament inside a glass capsule.

Also, if you don't already know, the kind of bulbs you'll need are H10s, also known as 9145. I'd highly recommend nighthawk by GE or Sylvania Silverstar Ultras if you want to stick with halogen. You do have other options besides halogen, but halogen is OEM if you're going for an OEM look.
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  #42  
Old 05-03-2016
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Just ordered the sockets, thanks again. Getting ready to pull the plug for the bumper, but want to be sure this is the correct one. NEW Chrome Front Upper Bumper Cover for 2001 2005 Ford Ranger Truck 4wd XLT FX4 | eBay. I have a 2 WD and I asked the buyer, but they said check my VIN with a dealer for the correct one. I believe the two should be interchangeable. If not, is it just a pair of brackets?
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  #43  
Old 05-03-2016
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It'll fit on the truck no problem. I don't know if the brackets are interchangeable, though. You could wait until it all gets here and try to fit the brackets you already have onto the new bumper, but if that doesn't work you'll have to put the old one all back together to have a drivable vehicle, if you don't have a second one you can use for a few days until new brackets arrive.

Also, when you put the valance onto the new chrome bumper, you'll need some things. Normally these are held together with these crappy quick clip jobbies, but these will be very rusted if you reuse them off your old bumper. A lot of work for rusty fasteners on all new parts. You could get a clips and fasteners kit off LMC truck, but an easier and cheap way to do it is to go to your local hardware store and pick up a bag of 1/4-20 bolts, matching nuts, and lock washers. You could use lock nuts if you wanted to, but that increases the cost. I used 15 bolts, 15 nuts, 15 lock washers and 15 regular washers. Nothing was stainless steel, or even zinc. Just a three dollar bag of 68 bolts, lol. Got 'em at menards.

You will also notice that on the upsweep of the bumper you'll need a total of four clips. I could not find any clips for this area, but I found a way that works just as well. Before I assembled the bumper, I held the upsweep of the valance to the bumper itself and used a silver sharpie to mark where to drill. All four tabs will need a hole the same size as the zipties you plan on using. From there, all four tabs were drilled out easily and zipties were fed through the holes in such a way that all four tabs stitch tightly together holding the valance nice and tight to the bumper on those corners. It's holding well.
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  #44  
Old 05-03-2016
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The bumper has four bolts holding it on. Just ordered the new bumper and when everything gets in, wil check it out. Will do the pre-wiring this weekend and when the bumper arrives, will finish it off. Will post before and after pictures , if I can. If I have more questions, will contact you. I didn't even think about the fasteners. Will have to make sure I have them. The new valance has a push type clip on the up sweep. Four on each side. Looks like they fold in as you push through the slots, then expand once in place. Will keep you informed of my progress. You have no idea how much I appreciated your guidance..
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  #45  
Old 05-04-2016
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You're very welcome. Sounds like you got it covered from here. One last thing I'll just throw in, if you do end up ordering new brackets and wish to get new bolts, I used half inch grade 8 zinc plated bolts, 1 and a half inches long with stainless steel lock washers, which is darn near close to the factory bolt length. The factory nut size is 3/4ths (or 19mm), and mine turned out to be the same size. You'll probably need a breaker bar in half inch drive to break 'em loose. Bonus points if you have air impact tools. I highly recommend a deep socket for those four though. And yeah, that one by the transmission cooler will be a royal PITA but with some persistence you'll get it free. I look forward to seeing the befores and afters.

EDIT: Also, do be sure to have an extra set of hands. The bumpers aren't all that heavy, but they are unwieldy to handle alone. It's possible to do it yourself, though.
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  #46  
Old 05-04-2016
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Was thinking of using jack stands to help support. One more PITA situation wouldn't surprise me though. Grade 8 is the way to go in any critical area, learned that as a young pup in the Navy. Saw too many things go wrong when just any nut or bolt was used. Maybe I can break them loose this weekend, it just gives me reason to buy another tool.
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  #47  
Old 05-04-2016
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Any old breaker bar will do. My favorite for those is the half inch breaker bar (padded handle) from harborfreight. I keep one in my truck with a 3/4ths husky deepwell socket on it. I don't like the tire wrench that came with the truck. Not very long and doesn't fit the lugnuts very well.
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  #48  
Old 05-05-2016
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Before I get started with the wiring, I do have one question. My fuse from battery to relay has 12 g wire. My socket for the relay is wired with 18 g. Is it okay to go larger to smaller in this case or just omit the socket and just go with the blade connectors to the relay?
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  #49  
Old 05-05-2016
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Go ahead and run 12 gauge from the fuse holder to the relay holder. The 18 gauge at the fuse holder won't make two cents worth of difference for that short distance. When in doubt, match the gauge to your fuse holder.
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  #50  
Old 05-07-2016
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I have about 6" of 18 g attached to the 12 g. Have about 1/2 the wiring done. Have to install switch, then wait for the light pigtails to arrive. My new bumper showed up just as I was stopping for the day, so tomorrow, hopefully, I will have done and ready for the pigtails. Going to pick up some hardware in a few minutes to attach the valance. Keeping my fingers crossed, but there should be no problems as you have done everything but come over and install it for me.
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