Just bought a 94 with 2.3 and 113,000 miles on it. Extremely clean and runs awesome too. Everything works great except the fuel and temp gauges.

The temp gauge barely moves as if there is no T stat. The fuel gauge stays at an 1/8" above empty and I just filled her up.

The battery is new, and all the other gauges seem fine.

Maybe there is some way to trouble shoot without a bunch of disassembly.

any help is appreciated, I am 66 and not looking forward to a bunch of mech work. I use the speedometer trip to estimate fuel now.

Thanks all; Dave

 

If your fuel gage is stuck (doesn't move at all) I would suspect that your fuel sender may have a bad ground, or just worn out. If it set for some time, the sender may be corroded and stuck. Easy test for no thermostat is to squeeze the hose to it after a cold start. Lots of water running through it = no tstat.

 

Thank you, I am more concerned with the temp than the fuel gauge so I will start there.

Thanks again RocketRod !

 

So I looked at my fuse block and there was no fuse in #7. Replaced it and still no Temp or fuel gauge or seat belt buzzer, or key in switch buzzer. Is there a fuse for any of these items? Is it possibly the ECU?
The Oil Pressure gauge and Alt gauges work.
My only concern is the Temp gauge! But they may be related to the other mentioned failed devices?

 

No, on ECU(computer), '94 has analog dash.

Power for temp gauge, and it's sender on the engine, comes from dash power so if oil pressure gauge is working then you have power at the dash

Drivers side toward the back of the engine there are TWO senders, if it has one wire it is a sender, two(or more) wires a sensor, just FYI.
One sender is for oil pressure, the other for temp gauge

The one closer to the top of engine is oil pressure
Below it is the temp sender

Make sure it is plugged in
To test the wire and the gauge pull off the temp sender wire and put on a jumper to Ground that wire.
Turn on the key and temp gauge should go to full HOT
remove Ground jumper and gauge will go to full COLD
This means power, gauge and wire are OK.

Drain coolant level to below temp sender height on engine.
remove sender and replace
DO NOT!!!!......Use sealer or tape on the lower threads of any sender, it has to have a good ground to the engine to work, upper threads are fine to use sealer, just leave some bare threads at the bottom.
And parts guys will almost always give you an ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor first time out, even if you ask for a SENDER, so look at it, if it has one wire hook up it is a sender, if two then he gave you a sensor, and it won't work

If gauge doesn't work by Grounding the Sender wire then you will need to pull the instrument cluster
Many How-tos on doing that out there

While you are in there look for a Yellow/white stripe wire plugged in with the other wires on the back of the cluster, that's the fuel level wire.
With connector unplugged use an OHM Meter set for 200 or 1K and test that wire to a Ground.
Ford in tank sender, 1989 and up, will show between 16 and 158ohms depending on fuel level in the tank
16 ohms = empty
158 ohms = full
Rock the truck and as fuel sloshes around the OHMs should change as float goes up and down.

If all that works then sender and float are OK.
If OHMS are out of range or stuck at 16 then something is wrong in the tank
If OHM meter show very high or N/C(no connection) then either Yellow wire or Ground wire at the tank are bad

Google: Ford anti-slosh module
This module is on the back of the instrument cluster, it stabilizes fuel level on the gauge, so needle doesn't swing up and down every time you go around a corner, "anti-slosh"
These are a common failure point and can be replace or by-passed, and they tend to show Empty all the time when they fail

 

The Temp gauge appears to be working. With the Radiator cap OFF and cold start there is no circulation of fluid. as the engine warms the circulation starts again. So the stat is working. The Temp gauge starts at below cold and moves slowly to just above cold about 3/16 ". I am thinking it is just' cold blooded', and not really a bad thing.

 

The temp sender is in the rear of the engine instead of by the upper rad hose, where thermostat is.
So yes, gauge will always register cooler than other engines with temp sender at the warmest spot in the engine, next to thermostat.

Someone may have replaced the stock 192degF thermostat with a 180degF thermostat.
Common misconception is that running an engine cooler is better for it.
If that were the case there wouldn't even be a thermostat, lol.
Minimum engine temp is 190degF, better MPG and cleaner oil, at lower temps the oil doesn't get warm enough to boil off water(condensation) and gas residue(blow-by).
Minimum thermostat temp for the 4cyl should be 192, 195 is better, 205 if you live in the Northern areas where low temps are common.

You are correct, the Lima 4cyl doesn't generate alot of heat, many cover the front of the rad to keep engine bay and heater hoses warmer in the winter.