Getting Heater Ready For Winter!!! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 08-05-2009
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Getting Heater Ready For Winter!!!

Ok guys. I am a big fan of the vast amounts of knowledge attainable through this sites search option. And honestly, that is the MAIN, if not ONLY reason I joined this site. It is awesome. I have been able to answer many questions, without even asking!

But I am having a little trouble once again, and this is something I feel I should ask about.


So here it goes.

Synopsis:

98 Ford Ranger
2.5 Litre
Manual 4w/Od
Air
Pwrsteering
ABS


Problem::::


Ok so recently I replaced the Thermostat because the new truck I purchased(98 ranger) was running cool. After replacing thermostat 2 times(finally went with the motor craft part:p

It is now reaching proper opperating temps.

But I still have a problem.

No heat.

Bummer.

First after testing, I replaced the heater control valve located on the heater hoses under the hood, with no luck. Still no heat.

While I had the hoses detached from the heater control valve, i decided to check the heater core flow and this what I got.

Two hoses going into firewall side by side. I filled the hose up on the left and applied pressure, with no results. The water stayed in the hose.

I tried doing on the right hose, and it sounded like it was circulating back to the radiator.

Does this sound like this is bad?

Also,
On the switches inside. I have noticed that no matter what the setting(except off) the ac compressor is still running.

Thanks and god bless.
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Old 08-05-2009
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Do yall think the heater core is bad?
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Old 08-05-2009
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Generally on fords the air condition is running unless you are on "off", "floor only", or "front vents only".
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Old 08-05-2009
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Thanks man. But i dont have any heat. Im just puzzled.
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Old 08-05-2009
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Are you 100% sure its full of coolant? Maybe there's enough air trapped in there that the heater core isn't getting any flow.

Usually when heater cores go they leak.
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Old 08-05-2009
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A quick and easy test of the heater core can be done as follows:
1. Ensure the cooling system is full.
2. With the hood open start the engine and allow to idle.
3. Grab hold of each heater hoses and note how warm they feel.
4. Keep repeating as engine comes up to operating temperature.

At some point you should start to feel the hoses getting warm to touch. One may start slightly before the other as coolant circulates through the core. However, there shouldn’t be a significant delay. A lengthy delay would be indicative of a partly obstructed core or malfunctioning water valve. If only one hose gets warm or slightly hot to the touch at full operating temperature then suspect a completely obstructed core or water valve stuck in the closed position.
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Old 08-06-2009
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Basically what he said ^^^ but sounds like the heater core is plugged and correction on the ac pump running it will run on defrost and floor so that is every position but off and The head vents and it runs to remove the moisture in the air coming into the cab so your windows don't fog up. it even runs with the heater on. you could also have a blend air door problem in your vent system i would check that too

Last edited by Hanks Rangers; 08-06-2009 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 08-06-2009
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mine did this when i got a new radiator. thought i had more than enough coolant turned out i didnt haha
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Old 08-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev View Post
A quick and easy test of the heater core can be done as follows:
1. Ensure the cooling system is full.
2. With the hood open start the engine and allow to idle.
3. Grab hold of each heater hoses and note how warm they feel.
4. Keep repeating as engine comes up to operating temperature.

At some point you should start to feel the hoses getting warm to touch. One may start slightly before the other as coolant circulates through the core. However, there shouldn’t be a significant delay. A lengthy delay would be indicative of a partly obstructed core or malfunctioning water valve. If only one hose gets warm or slightly hot to the touch at full operating temperature then suspect a completely obstructed core or water valve stuck in the closed position.
Thanks. Alot. Really!
Good resources. This will be filed in my mind permanently.
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Old 08-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanks Rangers View Post
Basically what he said ^^^ but sounds like the heater core is plugged and correction on the ac pump running it will run on defrost and floor so that is every position but off and The head vents and it runs to remove the moisture in the air coming into the cab so your windows don't fog up. it even runs with the heater on. you could also have a blend air door problem in your vent system i would check that too
Im going to buy a flush kit today. And try to back flush the heater core. Im not going to apply much water pressure though, in fear of causing the core to "explode"...lol. One question though. On my truck which is the inlet, and which is the outlet? Thanks man.
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Old 08-06-2009
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mine did this when i got a new radiator. thought i had more than enough coolant turned out i didnt haha
HAHA...Ill also look into this one:P
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Old 08-06-2009
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SO guys, thanks for all of the imput. I really wish there was something I could do for all the nice folks on the forum. Im going to try to back flush the heater core today, to see if I get any flow. Ill be sure to tip top the coolant level off. Thanks, and ill keep posted.
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Old 08-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev View Post
A quick and easy test of the heater core can be done as follows:
1. Ensure the cooling system is full.
2. With the hood open start the engine and allow to idle.
3. Grab hold of each heater hoses and note how warm they feel.
4. Keep repeating as engine comes up to operating temperature.
After step 2 set the heater controls to full hot and floor.Leave the fan set to Low.This will open the valve in the hose , otherwise it may not circulate.
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Old 08-06-2009
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Ok guys first I tested with the procedure above. Before the Heater control valve in the hoses to the heater core...HOT! But i figure it was due to heat off of exhaust manifolds. Closer to the firewall, was not hot at all.

I took off the heater control valve, and once again tried to force both air, and water pressure through both hoses...and nothing...nothing at all.
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2009
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Im just plumb dern confused?
Should I go ahead and purchase my blend door, and heater core, and go ahead and schedule a day off to fix, or what? Is it possible that the heater control valve is upside down? the part to it that the vacum line connects to is pointing downward.
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Old 08-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoBum09 View Post
Im just plumb dern confused?
Should I go ahead and purchase my blend door, and heater core, and go ahead and schedule a day off to fix, or what? Is it possible that the heater control valve is upside down? the part to it that the vacum line connects to is pointing downward.
before you buy the blend door i'd to the heater core first.... i did one on my 93 and it was wicked easy and cheap.. 36 bucks for the core (last time i checked) and about an hours worth of work. pull out the glove box undo the hoses under the hood, i think there is a plastic cover over the core on the interior after you pull back the carpet if my memory serves correctly. after all that, yank out the old core and put her back together.lol

i'd do that before you try replacing the blend door. its easier to do the core first instead of tearing the whole dash out.
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2009
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So do you think ill have to pull the dash to get to core in my 98?
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Old 08-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoBum09 View Post
So do you think ill have to pull the dash to get to core in my 98?
its been about a year since i've done a core in a 98+.. but if i'm thinking right you shouldnt have to. remove the lower trim pieces in the pass side floorboard, peel the carpet back, remove glovebox door/compartment, pull out black plastic trim pieces/protectors that cover the core and then disconnect the hoses under the hood and yank out.

i dont think much changed around with the core and stuff between those 2 generations. should be an hour and a half job tops. just remember to "burp the system after you hook all the hoses and everything back up.

"burp" meaning while the truck is runnin leave the radiator cap off and let all the air pockets circulate out through the filler neck. then re-fill as necissary after until air bubbles stop coming out.
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Old 08-07-2009
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Thanks man. Ill be sure to look at it tomorrow after work. Hoping i don't have to pull the dash...and if I do, I guess thats way of ford thanking another loyal customer...lol
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Old 08-07-2009
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np dude. ford has a unique way of thanking their customers. but for some reason we all keep coming back.
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Old 08-07-2009
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LOL...But then again, what other engine can get 300K miles out of with no major work? I mean they might nickle and dime you to death, but serious, the 2.3/2.5's in these little trucks are solid.
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Old 08-07-2009
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wouldnt know.. all my ford products have had a 4.0ohv or sohc. or a 302.lol

i practice that go big or go home mentality. moar power is always better.

the 4 bangers are nice though. aside from 8 spark plugs. which i never understood.
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  #23  
Old 08-07-2009
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I think they just forgot out a few cylinders during the design:Pllol
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