Check out this article on oil:

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

 

Fantastic read actually :-) Good thing I jumped into using royal purple 5w30... good oil so far, its a noticeable difference in temperature and such then the old 10w30 standard i was using... I liked the bit near the end on E.P. and reasons why the government doesn't want us using it in a motor =)

 

Another post of one man's opinion. It's always amazes how people think because someone writes a good story that it most be right.
I do not see anywhere in there where he did regular oil sample tests. A guy I know has 200,000 miles on his '99 Victory motorcycle using Amsoil oil and has all the oil samples tests to prove the results.
I run Amsoil for 5,000 miles in my motorcycles then I would put it in my old S-10 before I sold it. Last I knew it has 180,000 miles on it and still runs like new.

 

I think the guy gave Scamsoil a break, not getting into how they lie!!!

Did you know you can take oil that has been used until it develops sludge, and it will PASS a UOA??????

Sounds like you have been sucked into the Scamsoil cult!!!

 

this is gonna be good

 

^ditto

 

While we are on the subject of oil, check out this TSB from Scamsoil!

Sounds like they have gotten into deep poo-poo claiming their NON-API certified oils can run for 25K miles! Notice with these "sludge prone" vehicles, they are recommending to use their ONLY API certified oil for gasoline engines (XL), and they are saying to stay with the vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals!!


http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/T...dge-issues.pdf

 

Check out these oils that meet VW & Audi's oil requirements. There are no Scamsoil products listed, but Mobil 1 is there!!

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf

http://dejong947.com/audi/tsb/audi.tb.17-05-01.pdf

 

yeah because EVERYTHING you read on the internet is true!

 

"Did you know you can take oil that has been used until it develops sludge, and it will PASS a UOA??????"

Confirmed by Blackstone labs!

 

I've always had great results with Mobil 1!

 

It's good to hear your smart enough not to be sucked into Scamsoil's cult!!

 

Get a life Bob....really.

 

Just because some of you guys (and me at times) dis-agree with Bob doesn't mean his posts are a waste of "bandwidth". Lets have a little brotherly love for one another. I for one love to exchange information and take people to task on thier ideas. I at times am thinking wrong.. and at times others are. Oil and cooling are both areas of engine maintainence that are important and I've noticed that popular opinions seem to be accepted as "fact" when it's not.


I'm not trying to pull a trump card here.. But I was a FEAD & cooling engineer for Ford for 6 years. I build my own engines from time to time as well. (a top dollar 800hp sc & nitrous'ed 5.4L on the stand right now)


Now for oil and cooling...
40-50% of the combustion heat goes out the exhaust. This is the single most important thing you can modify to aid in cooling a engine. People *most of the time* don't know this or simply over look it. If you got multiple holes in the bucket... plug the big one first.

20-30% is done by a wet cooling system.
Here is a quick lesson:
When the coolant is not moving (which is a majority of the time) air bubbles form (boiling) on all the ultra hot casting surfaces. Mostly up around the combustion chamber areas. This makes heat transfer into the liquid less effective. For many decades this was just accepted and not addressed.
This is why we (OEM cooling engineers) have started using De-gas bottles as standard equipment on modern cars. It does two things. It helps make the liquid coolant more effective and it helps us to reduce the amount of coolant needed to do the job. (weight and cost savings) There are other things we could do to even further this line of thinking. But that's still not cost effective as of yet. (precision cooling)

20-25% is done by the oil. Oil temps generally climb as a motor runs. (Unless you have a coolant or external cooler)

5-10% is disapaited into the engine room air and transmission casting.

Now for oil alone.
Oil has to not only lubricate but it has to carry away heat. The better it lubricates.. the less frictional heat is created. The better it can disipate heat, the longer it takes to heat the oil in a global sense. Point being that oil break down is two parts.
1) Heat will break it down and make the additives less effective, or even non-effective if let go too long. A full synthetic oil is superior in this. As for one brand over the other and many many miles? I'm not sure and don't really care because of a more important and overwhelming issue.
2) Debris! The oil suspends debris of all sorts as it makes it's circut through the engine. All kinds of metal, carbon, fuel, sand, and water are put into the oil. The oils job in part is to suspend this junk and carry it to the filter.

Here is my major beef with leaving a oil in a engine for more than 10k miles.
The filter only does it's job down to a certian partical size. (measured in microns) The things that don't get trapped go back into circulation and in a small measure aid in being an abrasion on parts that are under high loads.
This is a scientific fact that you can't change. Maybe one brand over the other is better at having it's additives not get depleted.. but that's only part of the problem.

Here is what I do for my cars. (We have 4) It's my opinion that a bang for the buck balance needs to be figured out by each person.

On the three daily drivers we have I run 10w-30 mobil 1 and a Pure-o-later *pure one* or motorcraft filter. I simply use my judgement on the type of miles I've driven, I smell the oil, and I put it between my fingers and try to feel how much grit it has. (try these.. you'll see what I mean) Smell and feel are most important. When feeling it, don't just rub your fingers around. Put a lot of pressure on the oil and feel how slick it is compaired to new oil. Try it.

On the ranger, the oil gets pretty dirty pretty fast. I'll now be changing it in the 6k to 10k mile range. Just depends on what kind of driving I've been doing and how hot it's been

On the caddy I run it up to 10-12k miles. Its a northstar motor, gets dirty very slowly, and has a higher capacity than other cars. (7.5 quarts)

On the 94 pontiac (daughters car) I change it about every 4k miles. She *only* drives 6 miles a day and the oil gets dirty very very quickly.

On the Lightning I changed it ever 2k miles. SC and spraying nitrous blows combustion residue past the rings much more than a regular car.
Now with the new tolerances I'm running I'll switch to a straight 30W with zinc in it and change it about every 2 times out to the track.

Regards,
Rich

 

I made my comment because beating a dead horse gets old after awhile....

Very informative though Rich!

 

Oh.. Bobs not a dead horse. He's just a time aged and hardened *tough nut to crack*.

Since I like challenges in life... I'll take him on.

Rich

 

And there are some not as smart (or as lucky) as PW01......

 

Mobil 1 FTW!!!!!!!!

I used it in my subaru, changed it ever 5000 miles, and that thing ran strong untill I sold i sold it with 200,000 miles. It was still running great when i sold it....

 

Rich, sounds like we need to have a discussion (debate) on the brand vehicles you own!!!

I'll let you explain some of the horror stories on the Northstar!!!
As far as oil capacity, my 3.0L Mercedes diesel, and 2.6L Mercedes
inline 6 both take 7 quarts of oil!!!

 

Great, we have another smart one that hasn't fallen into the Scamsoil cult!!

 

i dont use amsoil but i dont use mobile one either.

Question Bob, should i get motorcraft wheel bearings or are the Timken bearings at autozone fine?

 

I am finally going to do my first oil change with my Dad on Sunday. I bought 5w 30 Mobil 1 oil. I asked the guy should I buy the Mobil 1 oil filter since im using Mobil 1 oil. He said yes but would the motocraft oil filter work just as good???? The Mobil 1 oil filter was 10.99 compared too like $5 for the Motocraft.

Is Mobil 1 good oil because I noticed it is kinda expensive compared to penzoil and other oils. I want to do oil changes my self because when I take them in to places they always put different stuff in it and I just want to make sure I put the best stuff in so my truck lasts a while.

Also it is fully synthetic that is fine for our 3.0 V6 flex fuel engines??? And since it is fully synthetic how often should I do my oil changes?

Thanks kinda off topic but I just want to make sure all this before I actually use it tomorrow.

 

Well, IMO (im sure somone will dispute this...) all the synthetic oils are equivalent. As for the filter, i just use the plain old Fram filters. They work, and if you change it every time you change your oil you should be fine.

As for oil change intervals, I always do mine every 5000 miles. If you use synthetic oil, you can get away with longer intervals between changes since the synthetics dont break down as fast. Ive heard of people going 10,000 miles with synthetics vs. 3000 miles with "real" oil. I go 5000 with mobil 1 and it worked just fine for me in the past (haven't done an oil change on my new ranger yet, but im gonna do mobil 1 every 5k!)