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  #1  
Old 04-12-2012
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Headlamp won't light on !

Hi,
I've a 97 ford ranger XLT 2.3L and yesterday while I was driving at night, everything was fine, my high/low beam headlamps worked well. Then I made a stop over at a market and when I started my vehicle, my headlamps didn't work at all.

Anyone has an idea for this issue ?
I suspecte the headlamp relay/switch...
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Old 04-12-2012
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you check fuses
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Old 04-12-2012
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Check the fuse... then the relay if the fuse is good, then the switch if the relay is good.

And check your ground wires for the headlights as well... sometimes corrosion will set in right when you least expect it to and break up the connection.
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Old 04-12-2012
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Actually, when I think about it, it is only the low beam that won't work. High beam are good. So Do I have to check fuse, relay switch ?
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Old 04-12-2012
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How a headlamp switch work ? If my high beam headlamp work and low beam are out, does it mean the switch can work on multiple position ?
I'm nearly lost right here.
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Old 04-12-2012
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If its just the low beams, check the following fuses: #4 & #8 located in cab fuse panel. Ensure you have power available at these fuses either with a test light or VOM..
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Old 04-12-2012
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I know it might be a stupid question but how do you test it with a voltmeter.
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Old 04-12-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
I know it might be a stupid question but how do you test it with a voltmeter.
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Old 04-13-2012
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Thank you very much Rev !!
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Old 04-14-2012
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So I checked the fuse #4 and #8 with a voltmeter and there is no power passing throught those fuse. I swap the old fuses with new one and it's the same result: no power.
I try to checked continuity with VOM: it shows 030. is it good or not ?

I also checked the 20A headlamp fuse in the power distributor box: power OK.

I suspect the headlamp switch/relay. My position lamp (orange color) are good when I turn the **** so I think there's a wrong connection somewhere inside the switch.
If that'(s the case, I'd like to create a bypass with a button switch. Anyone knows the wire diagram ?
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Old 04-14-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
So I checked the fuse #4 and #8 with a voltmeter and there is no power passing throught those fuse. I swap the old fuses with new one and it's the same result: no power.
I try to checked continuity with VOM: it shows 030. is it good or not ?

I also checked the 20A headlamp fuse in the power distributor box: power OK.

I suspect the headlamp switch/relay. My position lamp (orange color) are good when I turn the **** so I think there's a wrong connection somewhere inside the switch.
If that'(s the case, I'd like to create a bypass with a button switch. Anyone knows the wire diagram ?
If fuse 11 (20amp) in the Power Distribution Box checked good and had power, but fuses 4 and 8 did not, you’ll need to determine if the Light Switch or possibly the Dimmer Switch might be at fault.

I’d start at the light switch. Look for any signs that the connector melted or any signs of burnt wiring, If no visible problems are evident, locate and check for power on the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire at the switch connector. If power is present, turn the switch on and check for power on the Red with Yellow stripe wire. If power is present, check the same wire at the multifunction switch connector at the lower end of the steering column. If power is present, check the Red with Black stripe wire at the same connector. If no power was found, check for a bad connection at or defective multifunction switch
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Old 04-15-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev View Post
If fuse 11 (20amp) in the Power Distribution Box checked good and had power, but fuses 4 and 8 did not, you’ll need to determine if the Light Switch or possibly the Dimmer Switch might be at fault.

I’d start at the light switch. Look for any signs that the connector melted or any signs of burnt wiring, If no visible problems are evident, locate and check for power on the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire at the switch connector. If power is present, turn the switch on and check for power on the Red with Yellow stripe wire. If power is present, check the same wire at the multifunction switch connector at the lower end of the steering column. If power is present, check the Red with Black stripe wire at the same connector. If no power was found, check for a bad connection at or defective multifunction switch
If the dimmer light works, does that eliminates the dimmer switch ?

I followed your procedure by checking the light switch first:
- check dark blue wire w/ orange stipe: power OK,
- turn the switch on headlamp mode and check red wire w/ yellow stripe: NO POWER.

I was surprise to find 2 red wire w/ yellow stripe: one wire is bigger than the other. There was signs of corroded copper wire on it (on the bigger one).
I cut the corroded wire and try to connect directly the wire newly stipped into the connector, assemble with the light switch, turn on and result :NO POWER either. Same result for the other red one.

I didn't had the time to check the multifunction switch like you said. I'l try tomorrow and come back at you for feedback.

Anyway do you know how to bypass those switch and install a manual electric switch for the moment in case I can't repair right now.

Anyway a big thank for your help !
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Old 04-15-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
If the dimmer light works, does that eliminates the dimmer switch ?

I followed your procedure by checking the light switch first:
- check dark blue wire w/ orange stipe: power OK,
- turn the switch on headlamp mode and check red wire w/ yellow stripe: NO POWER.

I was surprise to find 2 red wire w/ yellow stripe: one wire is bigger than the other. There was signs of corroded copper wire on it (on the bigger one).
I cut the corroded wire and try to connect directly the wire newly stipped into the connector, assemble with the light switch, turn on and result :NO POWER either. Same result for the other red one.

I didn't had the time to check the multifunction switch like you said. I'l try tomorrow and come back at you for feedback.

Anyway do you know how to bypass those switch and install a manual electric switch for the moment in case I can't repair right now.

Anyway a big thank for your help !
The Dimmer Switch should be a separate switch located next to the headlamp switch. If the dash lights and other illuminated switches dim or brighten while turning it, then yes, the switch is good.

Since you have power at the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire at the switch connector but no power coming out at the Red with Yellow stripe wire with the switch on you've located the problem. I'd suspect the headlight switch along with the connector are bad due to overheating (burnt/corroded red with yellow stripe wire).

You'll need to try removing the connector from the light switch and visually inspect the connector as well as the switch. You may have to replace both the switch and connector to get it operational again.

Switch Click Link

Connector Click Link

If all your other lights are working and you need to bypass the low beam function of this switch in the interim, you can do it as follows:

1. Start by ensuring they will work by using a temporary jumper wire between the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire and the Red with Yellow stripe wire at the switch connector. The low beams should light. If they do, remove the jumper wire and continue to the next step.

2. Cut the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire, leaving enough wire on the connector’s side that you can reconnect if needed. Do the same for the Red with Yellow stripe wire.

3. Using a 12V SPST relay, connect the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire from the chassis harness to terminal 30 and terminal 85 of the relay. Connect the Red with Yellow stripe wire to terminal 87 of the relay.

4. Using a SPST 12V toggle switch, connect one terminal of the switch to terminal 86 of the relay. Connect the other switch terminal to chassis ground. Click Link

Last edited by Rev; 04-15-2012 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 04-16-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev View Post
The Dimmer Switch should be a separate switch located next to the headlamp switch. If the dash lights and other illuminated switches dim or brighten while turning it, then yes, the switch is good.

Since you have power at the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire at the switch connector but no power coming out at the Red with Yellow stripe wire with the switch on you've located the problem. I'd suspect the headlight switch along with the connector are bad due to overheating (burnt/corroded red with yellow stripe wire).

You'll need to try removing the connector from the light switch and visually inspect the connector as well as the switch. You may have to replace both the switch and connector to get it operational again.

Switch Click Link

Connector Click Link

If all your other lights are working and you need to bypass the low beam function of this switch in the interim, you can do it as follows:

1. Start by ensuring they will work by using a temporary jumper wire between the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire and the Red with Yellow stripe wire at the switch connector. The low beams should light. If they do, remove the jumper wire and continue to the next step.

2. Cut the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire, leaving enough wire on the connector’s side that you can reconnect if needed. Do the same for the Red with Yellow stripe wire.

3. Using a 12V SPST relay, connect the Dark Blue with Orange stripe wire from the chassis harness to terminal 30 and terminal 85 of the relay. Connect the Red with Yellow stripe wire to terminal 87 of the relay.

4. Using a SPST 12V toggle switch, connect one terminal of the switch to terminal 86 of the relay. Connect the other switch terminal to chassis ground. Click Link
Great news ! While I was driving to work this morning, I turn on my headlights just to test them and miracle...they worked ! So the green oxydized red w/ yellow strip wire were the culprit !
Yesterday I shorten the faulty wire and weld it with a 1" new wire to reach the plug, put it back into the connector and test it with a VOM for power: OK. Check also at the multifunction switch for the same wire: power OK.
I want to chenge the small connector attached to this wire but don't know how to do it. Any idea how to remove it Rev ?.

Anyway, thanks for the bypass procedure. It'll help any time when I'll loose my headlight again... lol.
BIG THANKS TO YOU REV ! You saved me some bucks !
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
Great news ! While I was driving to work this morning, I turn on my headlights just to test them and miracle...they worked ! So the green oxydized red w/ yellow strip wire were the culprit !
Yesterday I shorten the faulty wire and weld it with a 1" new wire to reach the plug, put it back into the connector and test it with a VOM for power: OK. Check also at the multifunction switch for the same wire: power OK.
Glad to hear you got it working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
I want to chenge the small connector attached to this wire but don't know how to do it. Any idea how to remove it Rev ?.
On the back side of the connector you'll see a light purple colored plastic lock. You can see it in this image Click Link. You'll need to carefully remove that piece. Once you have it off you should be able to remove individual terminals. If they still don't come out, you'll need to take a large needle or something similar and insert it down into the terminal and push the release tab.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
Anyway, thanks for the bypass procedure. It'll help any time when I'll loose my headlight again... lol.
BIG THANKS TO YOU REV ! You saved me some bucks !
Your welcome. Just keep me on your Christmas list
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