Heater Motor Resistor Pak - Resistance Values - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 01-17-2012
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Heater Motor Resistor Pak - Resistance Values

Does anyone know the resistance values of the Resistor Pak used on the Heater Motor.

I have heard so many problems from that pak I was thinking it would be good to setup an outside of the heater resistor pak, something hard wired to the heater motor and hopefully eliminating the infamous resistor pak failures.

I know about replacing the connector with spade lugs but not sure if that works all of the time but just trying to think outside of the box here.

Thks a head of time to anyone that post info.

Of course the one I would like to hear from is rwenzing… Bob any help here would be appreciated.
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Old 01-17-2012
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Send him a PM.
Or Justin (Toredeor4x4) (or however its spelled)
they've both got access to manuals.
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Old 01-17-2012
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Resistors dissipate heat. The pack is mounted inside the plenum so the blower blows cold air over the pack to dissipate that heat.
There is also a thermal fuse mounted on the resistor pack which will open in the event the pack gets too hot.
The main problem of the failures is the terminal corrosion.Water easily gets into the plug causing it to rot out.
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Old 01-17-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Does anyone know the resistance values of the Resistor Pak used on the Heater Motor.

I have heard so many problems from that pak I was thinking it would be good to setup an outside of the heater resistor pak, something hard wired to the heater motor and hopefully eliminating the infamous resistor pak failures.

I know about replacing the connector with spade lugs but not sure if that works all of the time but just trying to think outside of the box here.

Thks a head of time to anyone that post info.

Of course the one I would like to hear from is rwenzing… Bob any help here would be appreciated.

The blower motor resistor values should be as follows:

Pin 4 to 2 = 3.75 ohms
Pin 4 to 1 = 1.05 ohms
Pin 4 to 3 = 0.25 ohms

As for trying to setup an external pack, you’ll have a hard time finding resistors of sufficient wattage ratings. Hence the reason the OEM set is a bare coil placed internally in the air stream. I believe they use nichrome wire or something similar and is spot welded to the terminals and not soldered.

If you could find resistors set in a metal cases, rated to at least 100 watts each, mount them on a large enough heat sink, with sufficient air cooling, and with a properly rated thermal fuse, (for safety) it might work. Anything less, you’re asking for a potential melt down and or fire hazard.

The primary problem with the resistor connector is the environment they’re in and thermal properties of the actual terminals. Corrosion and thermal expansion causing micro arcing just compounds this problem over time. This results in resistance building up in the connection causing the terminals to heat up and further compounding this problem.

You could try, as part of a regular maintenance procedure, to remove each terminal (female) from the connector, clean to bare metal, adjust each so they fit tightly on the male terminal of the resistor pack, and place some high temp dielectric in the terminals to protect them from the environment.
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