I’m changing my manual windows to power. I have the new motor and regulator. Currently I have the old regulator out and the new one in. Now I’m just trying to figure out where to bolt it up so regulator end doesn't come off track and nothing is stressed. So if someone has a picture they can upload of their door with the inside door panel off and can clearly see where the bolts are, that would be very helpful, thanks.

 

Here's a pic of the A1 kit bolted on to the passenger side door of my truck...

 

oh nice! thanks. the passenger door is the door i started with too. when you say A1 kit, is that an aftermarket kit?

 

Yes.

 

does anyone have a pic of there stock power window setup by chance maybe when taking a pic of new speakers or something

 

where did you get this kit and how much??

 

i didn't buy a kit. I ordered new motor and regulator online

 

http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_fordtruck.htm

Ranger/Bronco II at the bottom of the page. Though I got mine through eBay, and it came with switches and a wiring harness.

 

The A1 kit bolts into the stock locations so that picture should work for you ryan. Although I don't have power windows, this is just what I have read.

 

I have the A1 kit as well and absolutely love it. I don't know if the stock setup bolts where the A1 kit does or not. You have to remove a few plastic push pins that are holding wires, and those holes are used to mount up the A1 assembly. I have had mine on for several months now and it works awesome. I installed factory door bezels and factory switches in my truck so it looks stock!

 

what do you do with the hole where the manual roller was?
how do you cut the holes for the switches?
where do you wire it to?
how would you wire the one that gives drivers side control of both as well as the passenger side one?

 

I personally was installing a component system at the same time, so I dremeled out the hole just a bit larger to hold my tweeter on both sides.
I used the stock bezels as well as switches. The bezel is the black part that pops into the door, includes the grab handle on the inside. The stock power equipment package comes with a different bezel than the manual windows/door lock package. I purchased the power equipment bezels off Ebay with all switches (driver side: window, mirror, door lock and passenger side: window, door lock).
I used a relay to power the switches. A fused 12 gauge wire fed the relay constant power. I used the ignition wire for switched power, so it will operate only when key is on accessory or vehicle powered on. I went to a junkyard and purchased the factory wiring harness plug/one foot of wires for the back of the factory switches. I hard wired the switches, thanks to Bob and his power window switch diagram. I ran 2 12 gauge wires from the relay's switched power, 1 to each window switch for power. Then two wires from each side's motor. Then the driver side had wires that went to the passenger side that made it so you can control the passenger window via the driver side switch. Then ofcourse the ground.
Answered above.

 

I have factory panels with all the switches that I found at salvage yards for the last six months. and last week I pulled factory wiring out off the doors of a ranger at the salvage yard and i'm gonna go back and pull the dash out out check out all the wiring under there and see what I want from there. I'm doing the power windows mostly myself but as soon as I most of it done I'm take my truck to the local car audio experts and they're gonna finish wiring it up along with installing power locks and a remote start alarm system. I'm have the auxilary button on the remote make my windows go down and up so i'm letting them finish the wiring for the window cuase they're prob gonna have to go in that alarm unit.