Help with starting problem
Help with starting problem
Hello everyone. I have a 1996 ranger xlt with 3.0 V6 engine. The last time I drove it (three days ago) it was fine. Yesterday I put the key in the ignition, turned it to start the engine and nothing happened. It was like it was dead, no instrument lights, no nothing. I did hear one click when I turned the key to start. The battery is new. I kept checking things and have found this: If I put a volt meter across the starter relay contacts with the battery + and - connected and the key turned to off, I get voltage at both lugs. If I take the small wire off the relay I get the same indication, the relay does not open the 12 volt contacts. I also noted that if I take the negative cable off the battery and wait a minute or two and then put it back on I hear what sounds like the starter solonoid click once. I can repeat the action and get the same click.
I am thinking the starter relay is bad (frozen in the make contacts position) and possibly a bad starter or solonoid as the starter will not turn over when I connect the ground to the battery.
Any inputs welcome.
I am thinking the starter relay is bad (frozen in the make contacts position) and possibly a bad starter or solonoid as the starter will not turn over when I connect the ground to the battery.
Any inputs welcome.
No, that would be an incorrect conclusion
Starter motor is a separate system, no connection to other electrics in the vehicle
So with key on you should see all the dash lights come on and then most will go off, thats a BULB TEST to tell owner if a warning bulb is burned out
If there are no dash warning lights then battery voltage is not reaching either the ignition switch(under the steering column) or the Cab fuse panel
The battery Positive cable has two wires
One goes to starter motor, larger one
Other wire goes to a post on the Starter Relay on inner fender(often called starter solenoid)
This post on the starter relay is the MAIN 12volt power distribution for the whole vehicle
Should be at least 3 wires there maybe 4, alternator is hooked up there and Engine Fuse box
Disconnect battery and clean those wire ends and that post then reconnect wires to post and hook up battery again
Make sure battery positive AND Negative connections are clean, there is no 12volts UNLESS there is 0 volts(negative), so battery negative is important
Until you get the dash warning lights to come on with key on, engine can not be started
Starter motor is a separate system, no connection to other electrics in the vehicle
So with key on you should see all the dash lights come on and then most will go off, thats a BULB TEST to tell owner if a warning bulb is burned out
If there are no dash warning lights then battery voltage is not reaching either the ignition switch(under the steering column) or the Cab fuse panel
The battery Positive cable has two wires
One goes to starter motor, larger one
Other wire goes to a post on the Starter Relay on inner fender(often called starter solenoid)
This post on the starter relay is the MAIN 12volt power distribution for the whole vehicle
Should be at least 3 wires there maybe 4, alternator is hooked up there and Engine Fuse box
Disconnect battery and clean those wire ends and that post then reconnect wires to post and hook up battery again
Make sure battery positive AND Negative connections are clean, there is no 12volts UNLESS there is 0 volts(negative), so battery negative is important
Until you get the dash warning lights to come on with key on, engine can not be started
Starter Help
Hello again. Well, it turned out to be the ground cable connection at the battery. Funny thing is I took that connector off and put back on several times while trying to troubleshoot and the starter would not turn over. I finally got a socket that fit the bolts on the post clamp and tightened down real good, put back on the post and the engine started right up. GO FIGURE!!!
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Retzlaff.brady
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Jun 8, 2019 05:33 PM




