OK Ranger Guys, I have been working on two problems with my 96 Ranger 3.0l. First problem: Check engine light does not come on when key is turned to on like all the other dash lights. It also does not come on when driving. The truck was failed on a smog check just because the check engine light did not light when key was in on position.I have verified that the pin 2 of the PCM does in fact supply a ground to make this light come on when key is in on position all the way up to pin 9 on the 10 pin connector that goes into the cluster. I know by looking at the cluster schematic that the 12 volt input from the fuse 11 does in fact supply 12 volts to pin 13 of the 16 pin connector going into the cluster.
I have used a ohm meter to determine if there is a connection from pin 13 of the 16 pin connector on the cluster to pin 9 of the 10 pin connector on the cluster. There is no connection between the two pins and there should be if you look at the cluster schematic. I have tested the old cluster and a newly purchased cluster and there is no connection between these pins on either one.

Second problem: Engine now won't start. It will turn over but not start. I put some duel into the air intake and it started and run for a few seconds and died. This tells me there is fuel starvation. I went to the fuel check valve by the ignition coil and had no pressure. Determined fuel pump was not running when key is turned on. I did a test where I ran a jumper from the positive battery post to the 12v input to the pump. Grounded the pump motor and head the pump running. I then checked the check valve again and had gas and pressure. Engine still will not start. Also had wife turn ignition to on and put finger on pump relay and it did not click. I checked the relay with a ohm meter and a 12v source and relay clicks and pins for power to pump is good.

I also checked every fuse associated with the fuel pump and the cluster and all are good. I also wired straight through the inertia switch.

I am at a loss as what to do now other than getting a mechanic to fix the issues. If I do that, as I am in California, I will have to rob two banks to pay for the fix.

Any and all help is appreciated.

 

Rod d may be able to help

 

Have you pulled out the bulb and its socket, the twist and pull socket, then use car battery to test if socket works, no polarity just 12v on one metal tab and ground on the other and light should come on, if not then socket or bulb is bad
The two tabs connect to two bare copper strips on the cluster circuit board when its twist locked into place, while the bulb and socket are out do a continuity test on each to the pins on the cluster connector to the bare copper strip for 12v and ground

 

Ron,I have done all that. Checked the bulb and socket first thing. I have just decided to take it to a auto repair shop that does electrical work. I had to get an extension on the registration. Cost me $50 but is good until the 12th of May. The guy at the auto shop quoted me a price of $200 or less to take care of the problems. I will be taking the truck over to him on monday morning.
Keeping my fingers crossed.