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  #1  
Old 01-02-2014
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Interior light not working

Hey all,

I've got a 98 3.0 XLT 4x2 and my interior light has stopped working. It does not work in any combination of roller switch/ignition key/door position i.e., "does it work when your door is open?" "Does it work when you close the door, roll the dimmer switch up to the click, and make sure the switch on the light itself is in the correct position?" No, no, and no. Nothing makes the light come on. There was no gradual build-up. I just went to turn the light on one night and realized the whole assembly is not working. I've replaced the Battery Saver Relay and the light still doesn't work. There's power at the fuse (#26) and the fuse is good. The dimmer still operates the instrument panel lights and looked fine on disassembly. I don't appear to be getting power where the light screws into the ceiling (green/orange wire). Is it time for me to start pulling trim panels out to chase down a broken wire? I was hoping to avoid that.

Thanks for any help,
Kn.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Hey all,

I've got a 98 3.0 XLT 4x2 and my interior light has stopped working. It does not work in any combination of roller switch/ignition key/door position i.e., "does it work when your door is open?" "Does it work when you close the door, roll the dimmer switch up to the click, and make sure the switch on the light itself is in the correct position?" No, no, and no. Nothing makes the light come on. There was no gradual build-up. I just went to turn the light on one night and realized the whole assembly is not working. I've replaced the Battery Saver Relay and the light still doesn't work. There's power at the fuse (#26) and the fuse is good. The dimmer still operates the instrument panel lights and looked fine on disassembly. I don't appear to be getting power where the light screws into the ceiling (green/orange wire). Is it time for me to start pulling trim panels out to chase down a broken wire? I was hoping to avoid that.

Thanks for any help,
Kn.
How did you confirm the orange green wire is not getting power? Did you replace the bulb? Do you have a bedlight and is it lighting?
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2014
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I confirmed that the wire has no power with a multimeter after removing the light assembly. All three bulbs look fine, and they all stopped working at the same time, so I ruled-out a bad bulb. There is a bed-light and the brake pedal activates the red center part. The white outside parts don't light with the door open or with any activity on the dimmer switch or on the light assembly switch. They don't light in reverse, either.

Thanks for your response!
Kn.

Last edited by Knuckles; 01-02-2014 at 10:20 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2014
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I confirmed that the wire has no power with a multimeter after removing the light assembly. All three bulbs look fine, and they all stopped working at the same time, so I ruled-out a bad bulb. There is a bed-light and the brake pedal activates the red center part. The white outside parts don't light with the door open or with any activity on the dimmer switch or on the light assembly switch. They don't light in reverse, either.

Thanks for your response!
Kn.
Open the door in the cab try loosening the 2 metal screws that hold the domelight in then tighten them down down as one of those screws I want to say the right one is a ground.If it is even slightly loose it will not ground the light causing it to fail.
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Old 01-03-2014
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The screws that hold the light in are definitely seated. Anybody know the route those wires take on their trip to the switch? Do they stay high, over the driver's side window?
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Old 01-05-2014
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Hello all,

Thanks again, Bob. I'm still tearing my hair out over this small electrical issue. I have one new bit of information. First, when the truck is actually started and running and the dimmer switch is in the "dome light on" position (clicked up), I get a high reading on my multimeter going from the hot wire of the interior light to ground. I don't remember exactly, but it may have been 50 or so.



Any more thoughts anybody?
Kn.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Hello all,

Thanks again, Bob. I'm still tearing my hair out over this small electrical issue. I have one new bit of information. First, when the truck is actually started and running and the dimmer switch is in the "dome light on" position (clicked up), I get a high reading on my multimeter going from the hot wire of the interior light to ground. I don't remember exactly, but it may have been 50 or so.



Any more thoughts anybody?
Kn.
The only other thing I can mention is the third brake lights are notorious for leaking might have corrosion in the sockets.
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Hey all,

I've got a 98 3.0 XLT 4x2 and my interior light has stopped working. It does not work in any combination of roller switch/ignition key/door position i.e., "does it work when your door is open?" "Does it work when you close the door, roll the dimmer switch up to the click, and make sure the switch on the light itself is in the correct position?" No, no, and no. Nothing makes the light come on. There was no gradual build-up. I just went to turn the light on one night and realized the whole assembly is not working. I've replaced the Battery Saver Relay and the light still doesn't work. There's power at the fuse (#26) and the fuse is good. The dimmer still operates the instrument panel lights and looked fine on disassembly. I don't appear to be getting power where the light screws into the ceiling (green/orange wire). Is it time for me to start pulling trim panels out to chase down a broken wire? I was hoping to avoid that.

Thanks for any help,
Kn.
Check for power (back probe) at the TAN/YEL and the LT GRN/ORG wire at the Battery Saver Relay. If there is no power at the TAN/YEL wire, you'll need to back trace the open circuit to fuse 26. If there is power on the TAN/YEL wire but none at the LT GRN/ORG wire, try grounding the PPL/ORG wire with a jumper to ground. If the LT GRN/ORG wire now has power, the problem may be with the GEM Module.
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2014
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Thanks for your response, Rev. I finally got around to checking this out. First of all, there are 5 wires at the back of the relay. 3 of them are GRN/ORG, 1 is BLK/BLU, and the center one is BLK/PNK. There are 5 blades on the relay, 3 oriented vertically and 2 horizontally. If the blade at 12 o'clock is vertical, , the colors/multimeter readings are as follows (sorry for all of the periods. It was the easiest way I could figure to make a diagram that would post correctly!):

......................|
.................BLK/BLU
.....................0.0

.....|................--...............|
GRN/ORG....BLK/PNK....GRN/ORG
..10.7.............0.0.............5.1
.......................--
.................GRN/ORG
.....................5.1
This was back-probing with the relay installed, key in "on" position and passenger door open. I am not very experienced with trouble-shooting auto electrical. Are there any further clues in those readings?
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2014
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Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Thanks for your response, Rev. I finally got around to checking this out. First of all, there are 5 wires at the back of the relay. 3 of them are GRN/ORG, 1 is BLK/BLU, and the center one is BLK/PNK. There are 5 blades on the relay, 3 oriented vertically and 2 horizontally. If the blade at 12 o'clock is vertical, , the colors/multimeter readings are as follows (sorry for all of the periods. It was the easiest way I could figure to make a diagram that would post correctly!):

......................|
.................BLK/BLU
.....................0.0

.....|................--...............|
GRN/ORG....BLK/PNK....GRN/ORG
..10.7.............0.0.............5.1
.......................--
.................GRN/ORG
.....................5.1
This was back-probing with the relay installed, key in "on" position and passenger door open. I am not very experienced with trouble-shooting auto electrical. Are there any further clues in those readings?
From the wiring colors and number of pins your describing it sounds like your at the Interior Lamp Relay rather than the Battery Saver Relay. The downside is Ford used the same color coded wires for both the power and ground side of the relay control circuit as well as the main power feed for the switched power (LT GRN/ORG). Here is the corresponding pin out:

Pin 1 LT GRN/ORG (Power feed to relay control coil)

Pin 2 LT GRN/ORG (Ground side of relay control coil grounded via GEM)

Pin 3 BLK/LT BLUE (Power out to dome light)

Pin 4 BLK/PNK x2 wires (One leg receives power from light switch) (Other leg feeds power to cargo light)

Pin 5 LT GRN/ORG (Main power feed to relay switched power, i.e., when relay activates supplies power to the BLK/LT BLUE wire)

Start by pulling the relay out and checking the corresponding terminals at the socket.

Pin 1 should be at or near battery voltage.

Pin 2 should be 0 volts. If you switch your meter to OHMS and test between Pin 2 and ground it should show continuity.

Pin 3 should be 0 volts

Pin 4 should be 0 volts. If you switch the instrument dimmer to interior lamp position (dome light) you should see at or near battery voltage.

Pin 5. should be at or near battery voltage. (If you have power at Pin 5 try inserting a jumper wire from Pin 5 to Pin 3. This should cause the interior lamp to light up.

If all the above checks good, replace defective relay. If there’s no continuity between Pin 2 and ground there may be a problem with the GEM or wiring in between.
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Old 01-16-2014
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Thanks for the info, Rev. I followed your above comment and got the following results: I was getting 10v on pin 1 and .5 or so v on pins 2 and 5. Jumping pin 5 to 3 resulted in continued darkness. I thought maybe it was the GEM, so I found a NOS one with the same part number as what was already installed on ebay and put it in this evening. The truck has been in my family since new, so I know the GEM I removed is original. They're both 14b205-DD.

Now I still have no interior lights AND my speedometer/odometer is acting super crazy and I also seem to be running a little crappily (like the fuel/air mix is not right on acceleration). I read on here that my year should be a plug-and-play for the GEM or, at worst, it would act crazy at first, but return to normal after driving 10 miles or-so. I drove <>30 miles and the speedometer was pinned at the top for most of the drive, with the odometer spinning so fast it added <>100 miles in that 30 miles. The speedometer registered 0 for a few miles a few times as well, and the odometer stopped for those miles. While making the transition from zero to pegged or back down to zero, the needle bounced crazily in the 80-120mph zone. The needle would drop to 0 when stopped, but climb to 120+mph very shortly after I started moving.

I found several posts either here or on other Ranger forums that said a 1998 GEM would not need to go back to the dealer to be programmed. I'm going to re-install the original GEM before I drive to work tomorrow and see what happens.

While chasing this down, I've replaced the Interior Light relay (under the glovebox) and also the Battery Saver Relay (farthest-aft relay in the power distribution block in the engine compartment, driver's side nearest the windsheild).

Taking a few steps back...I have had the interior light fixture out of the ceiling a couple of times while trying to solve this problem, but I've never gone back and checked the bulbs in the cargo light. I have a canopy installed, so I'd have to move the canopy toward the rear to access the screws (and, at the time, halfway disassembling the dash seemed easier!). Does the cargo light complete a circuit with the interior light? Like, if there's a burned-out bulb in the cargo light, would that kill the interior light? The brake portion of the cargo light still works, but the white, outside portions are as dead as the interior light is in all combinations of door open/switch on, etc.

Thanks so much for your help, y'all! Looking forward to getting this sorted.

Kn.
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2014
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Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Thanks for the info, Rev. I followed your above comment and got the following results: I was getting 10v on pin 1 and .5 or so v on pins 2 and 5. Jumping pin 5 to 3 resulted in continued darkness. I thought maybe it was the GEM, so I found a NOS one with the same part number as what was already installed on ebay and put it in this evening. The truck has been in my family since new, so I know the GEM I removed is original. They're both 14b205-DD.

Now I still have no interior lights AND my speedometer/odometer is acting super crazy and I also seem to be running a little crappily (like the fuel/air mix is not right on acceleration). I read on here that my year should be a plug-and-play for the GEM or, at worst, it would act crazy at first, but return to normal after driving 10 miles or-so. I drove <>30 miles and the speedometer was pinned at the top for most of the drive, with the odometer spinning so fast it added <>100 miles in that 30 miles. The speedometer registered 0 for a few miles a few times as well, and the odometer stopped for those miles. While making the transition from zero to pegged or back down to zero, the needle bounced crazily in the 80-120mph zone. The needle would drop to 0 when stopped, but climb to 120+mph very shortly after I started moving.

I found several posts either here or on other Ranger forums that said a 1998 GEM would not need to go back to the dealer to be programmed. I'm going to re-install the original GEM before I drive to work tomorrow and see what happens.

While chasing this down, I've replaced the Interior Light relay (under the glovebox) and also the Battery Saver Relay (farthest-aft relay in the power distribution block in the engine compartment, driver's side nearest the windsheild).

Taking a few steps back...I have had the interior light fixture out of the ceiling a couple of times while trying to solve this problem, but I've never gone back and checked the bulbs in the cargo light. I have a canopy installed, so I'd have to move the canopy toward the rear to access the screws (and, at the time, halfway disassembling the dash seemed easier!). Does the cargo light complete a circuit with the interior light? Like, if there's a burned-out bulb in the cargo light, would that kill the interior light? The brake portion of the cargo light still works, but the white, outside portions are as dead as the interior light is in all combinations of door open/switch on, etc.

Thanks so much for your help, y'all! Looking forward to getting this sorted.

Kn.

You should see battery voltage at Pins 1 and 5 regardless as they are both fed from splice S221 via the Battery Saver Relay. This same splice feeds power to the instrument dimmer module/switch and map lights if you have them.

Pin 4 receives power from the instrument dimmer module/switch to activate the relay and also feed the cargo light when you spin the dimmer switch to turn on the dome light.

The cargo light utilizes the same ground as the high mount stop light. So if the high mount stop light works, the ground circuit for the cargo light should be good.

Pin 3 feeds power via the relay to the dome light. An easy check is to jump a known good power point to pin 3. The dome light should light up baring the bulb is good. If not, check the dome light mounting points for a bad ground. Ref diagram below


Last edited by Rev; 01-18-2014 at 10:23 PM. Reason: added wiring diagram
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  #13  
Old 01-19-2014
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Thanks for all of your help, y'all. It turned out to be the darned Battery Saver Relay, which I thought I had replaced when it was in fact the Interior Light Relay. That BSR thing is hard to find, and there's lots of posts on the internet of people looking for it, but only one I could find answering where it is, specifically. In the hopes of saving someone else the trouble:

The Battery Saver Relay location for a 1998 Ford Ranger is above and behind the passenger side airbag. It is clipped on to the dashboard chassis to the right of the radio, but it is behind the larger module you see when you remove the radio. You have to drop the glovebox and actually get your head in there and look straight up to see it on the driver's side of the passenger airbag.

Last edited by Knuckles; 01-20-2014 at 01:17 AM.
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