I just got my remote start installed on saturday, took 4 hours, and i like it alot....although i have a couple problems with it...The lights flash when you lock / unlock it, but i have no horn anymore, so im going to call and see if they can hook it up like the factory keyless entry does....Another thing is they said i have a chip in my key, which i didnt know i did, i thought you had to have the little square on the actual key, but they had to install a bypass box, and put my spare key in it....so i have a key to my truck....IN my truck, but he said for security reasons, if someone knew it was in there, and ripped my dash apart to get it, and took it out, my truck wouldnt do anything....Its a 2003 xlt....Anyone else have this problem with thier remote start? I mainly got it because i like to let my truck warm up before i drive her anywhere, specially when its cold....

Rocky

 

your horn doesnt work? Im sure its just the ground not making contact. If im not mistaken. They use the ground wire off the horn to make it go "beep beep"(lol) when you lock and unlock..

 

There are two different types of modules available to bypass the Ford security system. One module requires you leave a key in the truck and the other doesn't. The one that requires the key is less expensive and is most popular especially with small shops.

 

i just called circuit city for one and they told me the same but i new i had a chip and they told me to go buy another chip theni can buy the sysetm then they need a bypass modual and then the whole cost would have been $460 and for that price i will go out and start it and leave it for a couple of mins and then drive when the snow comes.

 

Mine was 260 installed at columbus car audio, i wont trust my truck with best buy / circuit city, when you ask them ?'s, they dont know what they are talking about....I have an aftermarket keyless entry, i didnt want 2 keypads....so i dont think they hooked up the horn alarm thing, where it goes off if the door opens....but im gonna call and see

Rocky

 

buy another key or two on eBay
pull the one out they used for the system (temporarily) and program your new keys yourself
will save you $50 or so if you should loose that key
blanks off eBay are about $10 each

 

yeah i was thinking about going to ford and getting a key made, but i know it will cost an arm and a leg....

Rocky

 

What exactly are you wanting to know?

 

did you hook up the horn wire? Also if the lights are flashing and you want them to stop you should able to reprogram that to stop. Thats a feature so you can find your car in parking lots

 

I was just trying to find out if anyone else knew if we had chips in our keys, or had a remote start installed...Everything works good, but the horn blowing was an option i think, and i didnt think to mention it....I want the lights to flash / come on, so i know that its locked / unlocked......I didnt know that you had to put your key in a bypass box, i figured they would have way to get around it...

Rocky

 

Been away awhile, and just saw this . . .

When I tried to install my own Remote Start, I was told the same thing, (transponder key) and its completely BS. My truck is a 2005 Edge, and it definately does NOT have a transponder. I can go to Home Depot and get a copy made from just a solid metal key and it works fine. If your key does not have a chip on it, chances are really good it does not have a transponder, no matter what the manual or any website says.

You can do a quick test. Find the box and remove the key. I am fairly certain the way it works (as it was explained to me) is the box has leads that are attached to a ring, and this ring is placed around the the ignition cylinder, simulating the signal all of the time, so your remote start can work. You should be able to remove the key from the transponder bypass, get a cheap $1 copy frm HD and start your car manually. If it starts fine, you do not have a transponder, and you can take your car back and get your money back for the bypass (prob. in the neighborhood of 30-60 bucks)
However, since the transponder is bypassed right now anyway, you should be able to get a copy from HD anyway, since it no longer needs to provide the signal anyway.

Sorry so long, just almost got screwed by this myself. Good luck!

 

A 2003 Ranger DOES have a PATS transponder key and needs the extra part to make the remote start functional.

A 2005 Ranger DOES NOT have PATS - that's why you didn't need a transponder key or the box.

PATS is back again for 2006 on V6-equipped Rangers.



If anyone needs another PATS key, don't have the dealer do it for $50~$100. Instead buy the correct PATS key blank from eBay or the dealer for about $20 and have it cut for less than $2. Then use the link below to program the trucks PATS transceiver to recognize it. (You will need two functional PATS keys to program for the new one.)

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=4829

 

Never really gaurunteed him he didn't have one, but EVERY source I could find insisted I had PATS, from Ford to Autoloc to Commando Alarms to here, and I didn't, so I'm a little hesititant to believe anything I can't see, and if he can't see the chip or the symbols . . .
But if you have first hand experience, (and your info is usually much more reliable than most I've found on here) than I'm certainly willing to accept that, Rwenzing.
That being said, I'm assuming that there is a failsafe built into the bypass that only sends the signal when the remote start acitvates, or is it a constant signal ?(the keys obviously are not powered and actively sending a signal, so I would assume the signal would constantly be sent to the ignition coil) Effectively completely negating the need for special keys. If the signal is always present, and the Remote start itself has a starter kill (not sure if the one in question does or not, just speculating) than a constant signal from the bypass would not necessarily be unsafe, as the remote start itself would have its own diabling features. This means a normal key (a flat copy from Home Depot without PATS) should function. Does this make sense?

 

I was thinking the same thing - that having the working transponder key in position at all times would effectively eliminate the PATS protection.

A non-PATS key, cut to the same pattern, will do everything a PATS key will do except tell the PCM to supply ground to the starter relay. My non-PATS key will unlock the doors, turn the ignition switch, unlock the column, turn on the PCM and prepressurize the fuel system. It can also be used to turn on the circuits powered in the ACC position.

Using a non-PATS key in the switch with a PATS key close by should allow the engine to start.

 

Alright, here it is. I have a 2003 and I put my own remote start in it. The 2K3 DOES have the PATS key. The truck WILL NOT start without a signal from the key. For the remote start to work, you need a 'bypass module' of some sorts. There are two types. Both go under the dash with the rest of the devices and there is an RF loop that goes inside the steering column. The first type will 'read' your key's transponder signal, save it, and provide it when the remote starter needs it. The second and most common type requires you put a key inside it and it sends the signal from that key in the box up to the steering column when the remote starter needs to work.

You clearly have the key-in-the-box type since they took your key. What they did was dumb. You never give up your only other PATS key because you need two keys to make additional copies. Get your other spare key out of the bypass module and make copies. You can do it yourself. Have the keys copies like normal and follow the instructions in the manual for programming the new key. Verify that all 3 keys function properly.

Now take that 3rd key and destroy the metal part. Dremel the crap out of it. Saw at it. Beat it with a hammer, anything to make it so it won't go into the ignition and start the truck. This prevents someone from finding it under the dash and using it. Put it back in the bypass module the same way it was installed before. Put it all back together.

Now you have an unusable key in the bypass module and your spare key back in your possession. And finally, repeat after me:

I WILL NOT TAKE MY VEHICLE TO BEST BUY OR CIRCUIT CITY FOR ELECTRICAL WORK EVER AGAIN.


I WILL NOT TAKE MY VEHICLE TO BEST BUY OR CIRCUIT CITY FOR ELECTRICAL WORK EVER AGAIN.


I WILL NOT TAKE MY VEHICLE TO BEST BUY OR CIRCUIT CITY FOR ELECTRICAL WORK EVER AGAIN.


I WILL NOT TAKE MY VEHICLE TO BEST BUY OR CIRCUIT CITY FOR ELECTRICAL WORK EVER AGAIN.


I WILL NOT TAKE MY VEHICLE TO BEST BUY OR CIRCUIT CITY FOR ELECTRICAL WORK EVER AGAIN.


I WILL NOT TAKE MY VEHICLE TO BEST BUY OR CIRCUIT CITY FOR ELECTRICAL WORK EVER AGAIN.

 

Um ... it wasn't installed by Best Buy or Circuit City .... It was done at a "real" car audio place.

 

Hmm, someone mentioned it, i guess a short in my brain crossed the two together. But none-the-less, it is still a valid word of advice regardless of who was responsible for this peticular mess up.

And it's rather obvious this 'real' car audio place doesn't have the stuff together so well either.