It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off.

Now it won't even turn on.

When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit"

So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.

It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny.

I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.

I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.

I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.

All three of my brake lights are working.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.

Thanks.

 

could be the clutch switch.
If you were to depress the clutch while driving with cruise ON, the cruise will turn OFF.

 

When I performed the below diagnosis, it blinked 3 times indicating a Brake deactivation switch. I believe 2 blinks would mean the clutch switch.

My thought is that there are TWO brake deactivation switches. The one on the pedal I replaced and another somewhere under the hood by the master cylinder.

------------------

Do not start engine during this test. Transmission in Park or Neutral with parking brake applied.

Put the key in the ignition and hold the OFF button on the speed control then turn the key to the on position and then release the OFF button. This puts the speed control in diagnostic mode.

Within 5 seconds of releasing the OFF button, start pressing the buttons in the sequence shown below:
ON
RESUME
COAST
SET/ACCEL
(For each button pressed, the speed control light should flash ONCE, indicating that the pressed button is working.)

If, after pressing the last button (SET/ACCEL), the speed control light flashes:
2 flashes - defective brake pedal position sensor and/or a bad clutch pedal position sensor or the circuit is defective.
3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
4 flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately after the last flash code is complete, the speed control servo will pull the throttle open and then release it. This should be watched to check that the throttle and cable are not binding or inoperative for any other reason.

Although it is rare, it is also possible that this code could flash early during the diagnostic procedure.
5 flashes – Speed Control Actuator defective.
Turn ignition switch to the off position after test.

 

Yup, i found on a couple of forums (ford-trucks and explorerforums) that you should have a brake pressure switch of some sort at the brake master cylinder. Either over or under.

Brake pressure switch (cruise control deactivation switch) 2003 Explorer Sport XLT. - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"®

The connector should contain 2 wires. Try jumping these two wires, and run the diagnostic again.

 

I agree, there should be two, but I can't for the life of me find that one under the hood.

I'm thinking they changed the design after the massive recall.

I was hoping someone could confirm if there is a master cylinder switch on a 2007 and up.

 

This is an idiot question; have you checked fuse #26 in kick panel (SJB) it's the deactivator switch's fuse.

If it's OK:
According to alldata, and my own truck (2011) at the master cylinder, there is only the fluid level sensor switch.

But, also according to the above 2 mentioned, I have a 2 switches at brake pedal.
- A 2 wire, blue switch which is reffered to as Deactivator Switch (AllData) - Fuse 26
- A 5 Wire plug, which is reffered to as Brake Pedal Position Switch (AllData) - Fuse 19 and 32

 

I will check the fuse asap. I tried really quick last night, but apparently the fuse box isn't behind that little trap door on the driver side of the dash when you open the door.

I've had 3 Rangers in the past, and I swear the fuse box was behind that trap door on my old ones. I just bought this 2007 Ranger a few months ago.

So hopefully I can pull the fuse this weekend. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

On your '07 your fuse box AKA Smart Junction Box will be in the passenger side kick panel

 

Ahh, thanks!

 

No worries!

 

Thanks ianyboy for suggesting the fuse because it was toast.

Since it was working on and off at first, I never thought it would be a fuse, but what I'm hoping happened was that is was a defective brake switch, which I replaced, but the 2 amp redundant fuse blew before I replaced the switch.

Here's a pic of the fuse. It looks like it almost caught fire with the orange burn marks on the fuse posts.

I'll get a fuse tonight and hopefully it doesn't blow again.

 

yup, she got heated :P

 

So I popped a fuse in at the AutoZone parking lot and still no cruise.

When I got home I checked the fuse and it's still good, so I did the diagnosis. It's now blinking 2 times, which indicates a bad clutch switch.

So I wonder if my brake switch was fine all along, but threw 3 blinking lights because the brake fuse was blown, which was initially blown because of a bad clutch switch? Who knows...

Time to order a clutch switch, I guess

 

Ain't too bad, the clutch switch is only about 35$ new on rockauto. I'm pretty sure you could find one in good shape at your local pull-a-part?