Replaced the alternator and the battery on my 2001 XLT 2.3L 2WD but my dummy dash light shows low on the gauge.

I tested amp draw with volt meter and am sitting at .20 (ideal). No phantom draw.

Battery checks out as well as the alternator while running. All my fuses check out.

Am I looking for a fuse somewhere?

Do I need to turn the key to aux on and then off, while checking amp draw, to help determine if something is drawing while the computer is active?

Any help would be appreciated, I’m really scratching my head, I don’t want to blow my volt meter either.

 

Amp draw key off doors closed should be 0.03 to 0.07amps, which is 30 to 70mA(milliamps)
0.2amps(200mA) is a big draw for key off doors closed

You don't mention actual voltage?
Engine off/key off battery should be 12.3v to 12.9volt
Engine running battery should be 13.5v to 14.9volt

Battery light on the dash should come on with Key on, and stay on until engine is started and alternator takes over
If you don't see the Battery Light then check Fuse 11(7.5amp) in Cab Fuse box, battery light fuse, this is ALSO the on/off switch for alternator, No Battery Light = No Alternator

 

Battery is at 12.4V with the key off and doors closed.

Truck running I’m getting 14.7V at the battery.

With truck off and doors closed I am putting my multimeter in series with the ground wire and the negative post of the battery. I have my test leads plugged to 10A and Common. I set my multimeter to 10A mode. I get a reading of .20.

Every video I have watched has stated that anything below .50 amp draw does not constitute a phantom draw.

I rechecked fuse 11 in the cab and it is good.

When I turn the key to Aux, as normal, the battery light does come on. While still in Aux the battery gauge reads low (the needle on the gauge stays right above LOW).

When I turn the engine over the battery light goes away and the needle on the battery gauge reads in the middle (where it should be).

As I stated in the beginning the battery and the alternator check out fine.

 

Thank you, I now understand that I have 200 mA draw ….not a .020 mA reading. Going to keep digging and update.

 

1995 to 2003 Rangers have a Battery Saver relay that is controlled by GEM (body computer)

You have to wait 30 to 45min after key off doors closed for the GEM timer to turn off the battery saver relay
So turn key off and close doors, hook up your amp meter
Come back after 30min and see if its dropped down to under 100mA, can take up to 45min

12.8volt is a new battery
12.5volt is a 3 year old battery
12.3volt is a 5/6 year old battery, and time to shop for battery sales

If you have a new battery then take it back if its 12.4volts, might be self draining
You can test for that by disconnecting battery, test its voltage, write it down
Come back 6 to 10 hours later(overnight) and test again, should be EXACTLY the same, if not, then its self draining

The volt meter on the dash has no exact numbers, its just an analog style volt meter
You can get a digital volt meter that plugs into the cigar lighter, not expensive, but make sure it has an OFF switch, or IT can run down the battery, cigar lighter has 12volt full time

 

I tracked down the draw to fuse 26 on the interior which lead me to the Battery Saver Relay. The relay tests out fine.

I will hook the GEM back up tomorrow and retry what you suggested. I have been trying to find a GEM online.

If I know the Battery Saver Relay is good and I wait the 45 min and still have amp draw then I know my GEM is bad right?

 

If you pull out the Battery Saver relay you can then test amp draw without waiting

Fuse 26 also powers GEM timer, restraint module and instrument cluster, full time power, so pulling it doesn't mean GEM issue specifically

If pulling the Battery Saver relay drops draw under 100mA then put it back in and do the "wait and see" test
If GEM is not turning off Battery Saver relay after 45min then GEM is the problem, assuming relay test was OK

 

I waited the 45 min and the Amp draw dropped to zero (with the battery saver relay and the GEM installed).

During this test I had the radio hub unplugged (Radio deck, antenna, and two separate cigarette lighters).

Instrument cluster was installed. I am not sure where the restraint module or the full time power is yet.


I suppose I’ll hook the entire radio hub components up again and run another key on/off amp test for 45 min?

Or would the next step be hooking everything back up and pulling the battery saver relay to test amp draw without the 45 min test?

Thank you so much for the guidance RonD

 

Yes, have all the fuse in, every thing hooked up and battery saver relay out

The 30 to 40mA is normal for a basic Ranger, its for Radio clock/preset memory and computer's memory
The 70mA total is if there is also Keyless entry(Fobs), its radio receiver must stay "awake" full time to pickup Fob unlock, or lock signals

 

I removed the battery saver relay and hooked everything else back up. Without turning the key I tested Amp draw and got .050 (50mA).

With the Battery Saver Relay installed I get .20 (200mA).

Does this mean that my relay is bad, even though I tested continuity activated/deactivated, or could it still be the GEM?

 

You need to wait 30 to 45min after installing battery saver relay and hooking up amp meter, that starts the GEM timer countdown

50mA is good, and you should see that after GEM turns off battery saver relay

When you disconnect battery and reconnect it with amp meter, GEM reboots, so timer starts, same as key off doors closed starts it

 

Ok had time tonight to test again. Hooked everything up (as well as relay) and test amp draw. Waited about 40 mins and checked the meter and it says .050 Amp (50mA). I just checked it again after 50 min and it says show .000 draw.

So this test proved that my relay and GEM are working correctly? Or could the relay still be drawing excess amps in its activated state?

Am I understanding correctly that while the battery saver is engaged I am experiencing amp draw in excess?

I am investigation airbag light code 2-7 that I didn’t notice until now.

 

All is good for Ranger
If battery dies its a bad battery

 

I appreciate the effort to help Ron.

The battery is brand new just like the alternator. The day after I changed it the symptoms started again. Battery reads low on the L to H gauge while key is turned to Aux. Once truck is started the alternator brings it up to 14.something Volts and the gauge reads in the middle.

I will test the battery tomorrow morning as it is reading 12.5v engine off tonight.

I’m worried that if I exchange the battery again (would be my third new battery) the same thing is going to happen. Or worse the auto parts guy is going to tell me there is nothing wrong with my battery and it’s my truck.

Really puzzled at this point. Don’t have the money to bring it in.

Confirmed that there is no phantom draw after the Generic Electronics module times out. Could something be causing my battery to drain while the key is turned to Aux on?

Can anyone else comment on this? Please.

 

Switch battery brands if possible

 

You guys got super technical with this so I'm gonna give you the caveman stupid check by comparison lol. You said you replaced the alternator. I'm not sure since you have an 01. But on the 2000 4cyl limas the alternator has a few plugs for grounding and voltage etc. Go check them again.


This little bugger right here sits in a bad spot. Mine actually popped off with a broken clip. Itll throw a battery light, and gives the same condition of an alternator not charging etc. Goofy readings on the dash and weird idles etc. It even threatened to stall the truck out on me once.

You just replaced the alternator, I'd go back and jiggle it all. Maybe just for good measure pull and reinsert with an affirmative clip for comfort. This is what killed a brand new battery in mine.

Sorry can't get as technical as Ron XD

 

I have checked the alternator connector visually and made sure it is seated multiple times. My plug only has two wires to it (the middle slot being unused).

I am pulling my caveman hair out. Battery shows good voltage, alternator is sending proper voltage.

when I start the engine the gauge reads nearly in the middle. When the key is on but engine off I am getting a low battery reading on the gauge.

Someone is sending me the electrical schematics for the charging system but I’m not even sure how to test each facet.

Just sank 600$ in a complete front end replacement and I am at a total loss with this problem. I’m losing it.

 

Get something like this:
See what voltage is in the cab, could be the dash gauge is bad and your chasing a ghost

These are also phone chargers, but you can get them without that feature
Be sure to unplug these as the cigar lighter plug in has power 24/7 so it can drain battery(would take a few weeks), when key is off, it may have an on/off switch but the ones I have seen didn't

 

I'm still trying to understand your problem



With the engine running your gauge shows about here, about 13.5 - 14 volts, charging voltage

With key in the run position, but engine NOT running, gauge shows lower 12.5 - 12.8 volts, battery voltage

What is the problem ?