Lower valance fog light help!!!!!! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 06-02-2010
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Icon5 Lower valance fog light help!!!!!!

Hey guys so my fogs in my lower valance have been working intermittently for the past few months. i would turn my lights on and the passanger side one would not turn on. i would have to go out and wiggle the connection. this was going on and on so and i decided to try and see what the issue may have been. i was looking and unplugged the plug on the bulb and saw that the plus and the post on the same side was black, looked burnt and the plastic on the plus was a little melted. that threw me off to i cut the plug off and up on spade connectors. they were working fine after that. then last night the driver side stopped. i had my dad look at it and when he went to touch the wire with the fogs on it was to hot to touch. the wire was super super hot. is it supposed to be that hot or is there a problem somewhere? and if so where or what could it be? for bulbs i have those fake HID blue tines ones. there not the cheap ebay ones, but the kinda better ones. and help???
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Old 06-02-2010
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also in addition the plastic cover on the space connecttor was black and melted
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Old 06-03-2010
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whats the wattage of the bulbs you are using?

My truck didnt come with fogs, I added them myself but I had the SAME problem you have. I ended up switching to 55watt sylvania's not the el cheapo 65 watters...

The wire in the connector is like 18ga... its really flimsy and crappy wire... you might want to replace the lead wires coming off the main harness, or even reqire the entire fog light harness with a heavier ga wire, Extension cord works great for this.
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Old 06-03-2010
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The problem is more than likely the ground wire connections.
Check them out on both lights.
Pill them off if there is the slightest corrosion or rusting around the area and there will be.
Sand to bare metal and remount the connectors using External Star washers on both sides of the wire lug, DO NOT over tighten and use an anti corrosion paste on the connections.
This may or may not get the lights working but if it does it will be temporary if you have melted the connectors. Rewire is the only way.

Fastest/Best way to fix it is to rewire with good quality automotive wire sized for the wattage/amperage plus 25% and new connectors, waterproof if possible on the light end.
AND, as always, run your ground wires back to the battery… !
Start with the wires from the lights to the relay and a new ground wire back to the battery, then from the battery to the relay, add a fuse in line from the battery sized for the smallest component amperage draw in the circuit.
YES, added work, BUT well worth it later on when the lights are still working.
if the wire is sized large enough you can pigtail light to light and make sure to use Heat Shrink with adhesive inside of it.
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Old 06-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMD View Post
whats the wattage of the bulbs you are using?

My truck didnt come with fogs, I added them myself but I had the SAME problem you have. I ended up switching to 55watt sylvania's not the el cheapo 65 watters...

The wire in the connector is like 18ga... its really flimsy and crappy wire... you might want to replace the lead wires coming off the main harness, or even reqire the entire fog light harness with a heavier ga wire, Extension cord works great for this.
yea once i get paid im going to get new bulbs for sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
The problem is more than likely the ground wire connections.
Check them out on both lights.
Pill them off if there is the slightest corrosion or rusting around the area and there will be.
Sand to bare metal and remount the connectors using External Star washers on both sides of the wire lug, DO NOT over tighten and use an anti corrosion paste on the connections.
This may or may not get the lights working but if it does it will be temporary if you have melted the connectors. Rewire is the only way.

Fastest/Best way to fix it is to rewire with good quality automotive wire sized for the wattage/amperage plus 25% and new connectors, waterproof if possible on the light end.
AND, as always, run your ground wires back to the battery… !
Start with the wires from the lights to the relay and a new ground wire back to the battery, then from the battery to the relay, add a fuse in line from the battery sized for the smallest component amperage draw in the circuit.
YES, added work, BUT well worth it later on when the lights are still working.
if the wire is sized large enough you can pigtail light to light and make sure to use Heat Shrink with adhesive inside of it.
i am going to look into re wiring the lights once i get my kc 130watt daylighters. How would you recommend my wiring them all together. Scrambler you do know im talking about the factory fogs in the valance and i had the factory plugs for the lights and the plug behind the bezel
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Old 06-03-2010
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I understand they are fogs… problem that usually happens is someone will increase the wattage to the lights but not take into consideration that Ford only used minimum wire size.
Check out your connections… and reduce the wattage of the lamps.
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Old 06-03-2010
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ok man cool that what ill do. like the sylanna (SP?) lights are what wattage? do you knoe off hand. i went to the part store to look at them and i didnt see a what rating n them? you think they will be fine or look for something that has a rating on them
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Old 06-03-2010
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If you decide that you want to add the larger wattage lights (130 x 2) then you will need heavy gauge wire around 12 or better 10 gauge for the main power wire from the battery and from the relay to the lights, a new relay and fuse. The new relay can be actuated by the original wiring form the Fog Light switch on the dash.

luck,
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Old 06-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
If you decide that you want to add the larger wattage lights (130 x 2) then you will need heavy gauge wire around 12 or better 10 gauge for the main power wire from the battery and from the relay to the lights, a new relay and fuse. The new relay can be actuated by the original wiring form the Fog Light switch on the dash.

luck,
yea well im going to run my 130w kc's from a separate switch all together.... are those bright??? never seen them before
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Old 06-03-2010
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R U keeping the Fog Lights you already have ?
If yes then a separate switch is needed but if no then you could use the /OEM Fog Light sw in the Dash.

if you want a run down on the wiring check out this thread.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/f59/au...-light-105901/

Not to say this is a great one but it is what I do.

2 - 130 watt lights will draw 22 amps so make sure to use heavier wire than comes wit the lights, a 30 amp automotive relay and a fuse in the main power wire.
Also, I like a ground wire that is run back to the battery but everyone has their way.

ltr,
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Old 06-03-2010
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cool man thats look perfect.... would you or anyone know how those kc 130watters are???
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Old 06-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04_xlt_4.0_4x4 View Post
cool man thats look perfect.... would you or anyone know how those kc 130watters are???
I have them “to go on” but I did hook one up to a battery.
They are bright holding one in your hands in the Shop but no actual on truck use.
I guy put some on a Jeep on JeepForum.com and he said they were brighter than the Daylighter 150w Lights he replaced, that is why I purchased them.
My plan was for three pairs on the front, wiring each pair to a separate relay and switch.
That way if one set of lights or a light blows out there are still backups to get you home.

Last edited by Scrambler82; 06-04-2010 at 06:06 AM.
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