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Old 12-11-2014
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mounting ideas for fogs

1999 Ford ranger 4wd

Im trying to wire up fogs for the ranger. i ordered a set of OEM fog lights, with housings and lights included. The fog lights mount in the plastic fascia that goes over the chrome bumper, but as you can see in the picture, mine is missing, so im gonna mount them directly to the chrome bumper, or somewhere behind it. Does anybody know what would be best?

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Old 12-11-2014
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I would hit a wrecking yard and see if you can get that lower bumper, as seen here:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...ruck-d-100784/

Or here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/319911...ar-cab/page-4/

But fog lights are pretty much a cosmetic choice so mount them where YOU think they look the best.

As for their actual purpose, they are meant for use at low speed with regular head lights off, although that is illegal in some states, lol.
They should have a low flat wide beam to kept the reflected light at eye level to a minimum(which is why you turn OFF the regular head lights, too much reflected light)

You mount them low to illuminate the road lines or edges, and to keep the glare at eye level to a minimum.

The basic issue with fog and snow is its light scattering and reflective properties
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Old 12-12-2014
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Those stock fog lights are going to look ugly on your nice looking truck mounted anywhere except within the lower stock bumper holes, as the backs and brackets are "unfinished". If you intended to just mount fog lights anywhere but the stock location, then you should have gone with an aftermarket type kit.

As mentioned, fogs are to be mounted low to be affective, which is why they were there in the first place.

Don't forget that you'll need to wire them properly. Wiring, a fuse, a relay, and the dash switch to trigger the relay are needed to do it safe and correct.
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Old 12-12-2014
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Yeah im returning the oem style and im gonna pick up a cheap set at autozone. i got the fuse, relay, switch, lots of wiring, lots of spade connectors, and lots of heat shrink.

The switch is a lighted switch, which means it has three prongs instead of two. Is there an ACCESSORY spot in the fuse box i can tap into to make the switch light up when the truck is on? or do i have to wire that to something else?
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Old 12-12-2014
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Originally Posted by 420stackz View Post
Yeah im returning the oem style and im gonna pick up a cheap set at autozone. i got the fuse, relay, switch, lots of wiring, lots of spade connectors, and lots of heat shrink.

The switch is a lighted switch, which means it has three prongs instead of two. Is there an ACCESSORY spot in the fuse box i can tap into to make the switch light up when the truck is on? or do i have to wire that to something else?
Just tap into the radio power
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Old 12-12-2014
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why would you want the switch to always be lit? I have all of mine to only light up when i turn the switch to the on position.
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Old 12-12-2014
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There are switches that have an "on" light, and there are switches that also have a "back light".
The "back light" would be wired to the "dash light" circuit, so when lights were on the new switch would be lit up so you could find it.

The "on" light is just that, it tells you if it is turned on.
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Old 12-12-2014
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thanks guise. Now, i mounted the relay on the firewall and hooked up the positive and ground wires to it, with a 15A fuse inline with the 30 -> positive wire. On both my hondas there is a rubber grommet with a hole in it for running wires from the engine bay to the cabin. I've looked very hard for such a hole and i cannot find one. Where should i run the wires into the cab?
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Old 12-12-2014
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There are switches that have an "on" light, and there are switches that also have a "back light".
The "back light" would be wired to the "dash light" circuit, so when lights were on the new switch would be lit up so you could find it.

The "on" light is just that, it tells you if it is turned on.
ah, gross. i'd hate to have a backlit switch lol
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Old 12-15-2014
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thanks guise. Now, i mounted the relay on the firewall and hooked up the positive and ground wires to it, with a 15A fuse inline with the 30 -> positive wire. On both my hondas there is a rubber grommet with a hole in it for running wires from the engine bay to the cabin. I've looked very hard for such a hole and i cannot find one. Where should i run the wires into the cab?
You should have a large rubber grommit that the drive by wire cable (old school: gas pedal cable) runs through. Using the tip of an exacto knife or simular, make a slit in this rubber, enough to pass the wires through to get them into the engine bay, and then to the front grill area.

I use a coat hanger to pull wires through once this slit has been cut into this grommet. Simply tape the wires to the coat hanger after pushing it through the slit, then pull the wires through.
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Old 12-29-2014
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I did it. I installed them. Explanation of how i did it will be below in a few minutes, as well as before/after pictures.

Here is the before picture, when i had just signed the title.

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Old 12-29-2014
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Old 12-29-2014
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I bought these generic lights at walmart for about 30 bucks. They have sturdy metal brackets, and i ended up tapping a 5/16 threaded hole into the tow hooks, and used 5/16 bolts to securely bolt the lights to the truck. I've had them on for a few weeks now, and i just tested their rigidity, and they are still as firmly attached as they were on day 1. For the wiring, i used a relay, lots of wires, and a switch. i was unable to get a wire through the firewall, so i ended up running the wires for the switch along the side of the hood, in that crevice between the hood and the fender, down the side of the door, and on up right by the driver side defrost vent, where i glued the switch. Yeah, it's ghetto, and not as clean of an installation as i would like, but it works, and it works every time. As for the underhood wiring, no loose ends. everything is ziptied and tucked away from moving parts. No wires are visible dangling under the truck either, i tucked them up under the bumper for a clean look.

When i finally got to test them at night, i won't lie, i was shocked. i wasn't thinking these walmart lights were gonna be much good, but they are almost TOO good, to the point sometimes i realize i forgot to turn on my headlights at night! they do their job, illiminating the middle of the road directly in front of me, and they are NOT tied into the stock lighting system, so high beams can be operated alongside the fogs, for extra super duper road mastery. I was also surprised at how well my "eyeballing" technique was for lining them up. When i mounted them i just guessed at what was perfectly straight ahead. turns out, i did a damn good job and the lights don't need alignment.
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Old 12-29-2014
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Old 12-29-2014
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? what is wrong with them?
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Old 12-30-2014
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X2
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Old 12-30-2014
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x 18473017461910474618405716392047
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Old 12-30-2014
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? what is wrong with them?
Us current and former red truck owners are picky and like the OEM look lol.

If you like it and are happy with the results, that is all that matters.
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Old 12-30-2014
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Do people normally tap holes into their tow hooks to mount lights? You've just rendered your tow hooks useless for the sake of some Walmart fog lights. Then you glued a switch to your dash... If you ever want to move that switch your dash is gonna look like poo. Then you ran wires in all kinds of places you didn't have to. Just because it works doesn't mean you should do it.

It's your truck and you can do as you will, but I'm just saying you should step back and think about it a little more next time.

Do it right the first time.

ltr
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  #20  
Old 12-30-2014
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i agree, the oem look is better. im not rich. i don't have the spare money laying around to buy the front valence. i even got ripped off by rock auto on returning the oem fogs, practically dumped 40 bucks down the drain with that whole ordeal. I probably could have done them better, i agree, but im satisfied and they work. Now, today i actually spent the time and PROPERLY (according to the explorer/ranger manual) flushed and bled my hydraulic clutch lines, and have seen MAJOR improvement! :) engagement point has moved so it's not 3/4 inch off the floor, shifting into gear from neutral is almost buttery smooth now, it feels like it should. I didn't think it was right. my Civic and Integra both can be stuck into gear almost simultaneously with the clutch going to the floor, but maybe it has to do with it's a Honda, or it's a FWD layout.....
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