Need to find vacuum lines (98 2.5L xlt)
#1
Need to find vacuum lines (98 2.5L xlt)
I need to repace two vacuum lines but i cannot find anything close to what I need online, I can't even find what they are called, what they go to, or even a diagram that includes them.
the two lines, black and white, come into the cab on the passenger side under and to the right of the glove box.
The black line runs to a ball vacuum chamber in the engine bay below the air filter on the passenger side. This line is cut where it hangs down into the wheel well.
The white line is cut at the same spot a few inches closer to the cab. But I cannot find the other half of the white line.
The first problem is every diagram I can find doesn't include either of these lines. The second problem is I cannot find where the other half of the white line goes. The third problem is I cannot find any replacement lines that look anything close to what I need.
I have found several threads here that mention exactly the problems I have with either one of these lines being cut. But these threads frustratingly either stop at finding out there is a cut line or even more frustratingly the fix to this problem and where the white line leads to is never explained as if its common knowledge.
Is there something I'm missing or am i looking in the wrong places. All the information I can find is either for a different model ranger or completely leaves out any information that could apply to what I need to know.
the two lines, black and white, come into the cab on the passenger side under and to the right of the glove box.
The black line runs to a ball vacuum chamber in the engine bay below the air filter on the passenger side. This line is cut where it hangs down into the wheel well.
The white line is cut at the same spot a few inches closer to the cab. But I cannot find the other half of the white line.
The first problem is every diagram I can find doesn't include either of these lines. The second problem is I cannot find where the other half of the white line goes. The third problem is I cannot find any replacement lines that look anything close to what I need.
I have found several threads here that mention exactly the problems I have with either one of these lines being cut. But these threads frustratingly either stop at finding out there is a cut line or even more frustratingly the fix to this problem and where the white line leads to is never explained as if its common knowledge.
Is there something I'm missing or am i looking in the wrong places. All the information I can find is either for a different model ranger or completely leaves out any information that could apply to what I need to know.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
The black line is the Vacuum source and runs from the "black ball"/vacuum reservoir thru the firewall and to the Climate control panel in the dash
You can replace this line or any part of it with regular rubber vacuum hose of correct size, correct size means it fits snugly over the remaining hard vacuum line, no clamps needed, its Vacuum so pulls together does try to push apart
Ford and other auto makers started using the hard lines because they are cheaper and can be easily color coded to make assembly faster on production lines, they are not "better" just cheaper, lol
The white line inside the cab should change to a GREY line in the engine bay, it runs up to the heater hose bypass valve in engine bay, so not a long line like the black one
It only has vacuum in MAX AC and OFF, it shuts off flow thru heater core in the cab
Again you can use regular rubber vacuum hose to patch or replace any hard vacuum line
In the foreground of your picture you see the bottom of the VENT vacuum valve, white vacuum line, that's "T'ed" with the white line running to firewall
The outside air VENT is closed in MAX AC and OFF, same as heater core flow is cut off
Just FYI
You can go to wrecking yard and cut these hard vacuum lines from any vehicle and use them in yours, use short rubber lines to splice them you your existing lines
The air direction in the cab is controlled by vacuum valves, defrost, panel and floor, defrost is the Default(no vacuum) setting for the valves
If you fold down glove box all the way(release the tabs) and look to the left behind the dash you should see the "vacuum manifold", lots of Colored Vacuum hoses, thats the disconnect between dashes vacuum valves and the climate control panel to make for easier assembly at the factory, and is where the black and white lines connect
You can replace this line or any part of it with regular rubber vacuum hose of correct size, correct size means it fits snugly over the remaining hard vacuum line, no clamps needed, its Vacuum so pulls together does try to push apart
Ford and other auto makers started using the hard lines because they are cheaper and can be easily color coded to make assembly faster on production lines, they are not "better" just cheaper, lol
The white line inside the cab should change to a GREY line in the engine bay, it runs up to the heater hose bypass valve in engine bay, so not a long line like the black one
It only has vacuum in MAX AC and OFF, it shuts off flow thru heater core in the cab
Again you can use regular rubber vacuum hose to patch or replace any hard vacuum line
In the foreground of your picture you see the bottom of the VENT vacuum valve, white vacuum line, that's "T'ed" with the white line running to firewall
The outside air VENT is closed in MAX AC and OFF, same as heater core flow is cut off
Just FYI
You can go to wrecking yard and cut these hard vacuum lines from any vehicle and use them in yours, use short rubber lines to splice them you your existing lines
The air direction in the cab is controlled by vacuum valves, defrost, panel and floor, defrost is the Default(no vacuum) setting for the valves
If you fold down glove box all the way(release the tabs) and look to the left behind the dash you should see the "vacuum manifold", lots of Colored Vacuum hoses, thats the disconnect between dashes vacuum valves and the climate control panel to make for easier assembly at the factory, and is where the black and white lines connect
#3
Thank you for the detailed response. I was able to find the control valve for the heater. I see where a vacuum line should plug into it. Unfortunately the plug and a good portion of the line is missing.
for the black line I think I can make it a few inches shorter and patch it with out any problems.
As for the grey line I will need a new plug and a longer section of hose to replace what is missing.
Is there a way to tell what size I need or do I have to eyeball it and see what fits?
for the black line I think I can make it a few inches shorter and patch it with out any problems.
As for the grey line I will need a new plug and a longer section of hose to replace what is missing.
Is there a way to tell what size I need or do I have to eyeball it and see what fits?
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Just cut a short section of the hard line off and take it into a Parts store, you buy the rubber hose by the foot
I think the hard line is 5/32" OD so 1/8"(4/32") ID rubber hose would be a snug fit
Parts stores may also have rolls of the hard line, and the 90deg elbows used on vacuum valve connections
And as said a wrecking yard will have all the parts you need, these are not Ford specific, all makers used vacuum lines/hoses
I think the hard line is 5/32" OD so 1/8"(4/32") ID rubber hose would be a snug fit
Parts stores may also have rolls of the hard line, and the 90deg elbows used on vacuum valve connections
And as said a wrecking yard will have all the parts you need, these are not Ford specific, all makers used vacuum lines/hoses
#5
Just cut a short section of the hard line off and take it into a Parts store, you buy the rubber hose by the foot
I think the hard line is 5/32" OD so 1/8"(4/32") ID rubber hose would be a snug fit
Parts stores may also have rolls of the hard line, and the 90deg elbows used on vacuum valve connections
And as said a wrecking yard will have all the parts you need, these are not Ford specific, all makers used vacuum lines/hoses
I think the hard line is 5/32" OD so 1/8"(4/32") ID rubber hose would be a snug fit
Parts stores may also have rolls of the hard line, and the 90deg elbows used on vacuum valve connections
And as said a wrecking yard will have all the parts you need, these are not Ford specific, all makers used vacuum lines/hoses
i patched both lines without much trouble, but getting my hands in therer to do it was a pain. I brought a small section of the broken line to a parts store and they found the right size for me, I first used hardline but had a tough time getting the connections in the patch to hold so I ended up redoing it with the rubber line, but in hindsight the hardline was probably fine because unfortunately the vacuum lines were not the cause of my problem. It id fix the blend door so it opens when I start the engine. But the dial that controls the fan directions still doesn't work. It will turn the fan on and off but the positions of the dial don't work, it only blows through the defroster vent and a little bleeds through the vents that blow on your feet. The other dials on that panel still work and there is no more vacuum leak so the problem is somewhere else.
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
In the engine bay the Black line runs from firewall to the front, by radiator support, and then over to in front of the passenger side wheel well, to the Vacuum Reservoir(black ball)
Look like this: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...0reservoir.jpg
front bumper is to the left in picture, tire to the right
One vacuum line goes to firewall and the other to the engines Intake manifold, the source of the vacuum that stored in the Reservoir
If you have NO vent control in the cab at all, then there is NO vacuum at all in the cab
Trace the vacuum line up to the engines intake, make sure its connected and no leaks
You can test for vacuum with engine running by putting your finger on the hose, should feel a suction
Very rarely does the vacuum switch in the panel in the cab have any issues, its possible of course, but 99% of the time its a problem in the engine bay
Reservoir can crack so no vacuum
Look like this: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...0reservoir.jpg
front bumper is to the left in picture, tire to the right
One vacuum line goes to firewall and the other to the engines Intake manifold, the source of the vacuum that stored in the Reservoir
If you have NO vent control in the cab at all, then there is NO vacuum at all in the cab
Trace the vacuum line up to the engines intake, make sure its connected and no leaks
You can test for vacuum with engine running by putting your finger on the hose, should feel a suction
Very rarely does the vacuum switch in the panel in the cab have any issues, its possible of course, but 99% of the time its a problem in the engine bay
Reservoir can crack so no vacuum
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