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  #26  
Old 08-07-2007
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i would use a max a 5 amp fuse....and if you have a 2.5 amp fuse, that would probably be better....LED's draw almost no power.....for instance: all the blue LED's that i have on my truck for my emergency lights draw about 18A....and i have 6 lights with a total of around 30 LED's....and that counts my strobe pack which pulls roughly 6A...
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  #27  
Old 08-07-2007
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i would use a 1amp fuse.
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2007
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Great.. I'll order the switches and stop by R-S on the way home. (gonna be mimiking this setup on the Lightning too)

Rich
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2007
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keep us informed on your progress.....i want pictures!
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2007
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I'll post them.. got a friend making a OEM looking sticker for the switch too. It won't exactly OEM. But I want it to at least blend in and not appear tacked on. Not to sure where to place the light yet. OEM would'nt put it that far over on the dash... just don't know about that one yet.

Rich
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  #31  
Old 08-18-2007
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Well I got the e-fan switch and LED light installed today. I don't like the chrome look of the LED. I'll either find a black housing or paint this one black. Anyway, the intall went pretty easy. I had to use the dremel tool and make two holes for the switch and LED. I also had to make holes in the dash pad for the wires to pass through.

It's nice now. I have full control finally. Manual on - auto - or manual off from within the cab.

And the LED is wired directly to the fan. So it comes on when the fan comes on.. and it's brightness reflects the speed of the fan. (my controller varies the speed depending on cooling needs)

Up here in Mich it'll be nice because there are an awful lot of days where it's just too cold out to be running the fan.. but yet the AC compressor is kicking because of defrost or I have the AC on. (I like it ICE cold in the cab) Also when I'm out on the freeway at 70mph there is no need to have it running all the time just because I have the AC on.

btw, I've got a friend whos a graphic artist making me a sticker for the switch area. Told him to make it look OEM and have text that tells what each postion does. I'll post a pic when it's put on.

Rich


Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 09-09-2007 at 04:29 PM.
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  #32  
Old 08-18-2007
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looks good Rich.....i would personally have went with a smaller LED, but if you like it, i am happy for ya...
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  #33  
Old 08-18-2007
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I know.. I know.. I did'nt like it's size either. When sitting in the drivers seat it's really not easily seen. Which was my goal to begin with. I don't want it to be a constant distraction. Because of the angle and making it black it blends in pretty well. (I put black tape on it until I get it painted) It's also clear when not powered.

It's out of the way and does'nt really light up the interior in the dark.

I really labored about where to put both the switch and the LED. The switch would have looked better between the fog and power.. but it's actually awkward to push it there. Where I placed it.. it's a natural feel and done with the thumb. The LED though.. there really wasn't a good spot for it IMO. At least it's somewhat symetrical in appearance now.

Rich
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  #34  
Old 09-09-2007
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UPDATE:

I am trying to make this look at bit more OEM than just a tacked on setup. It's not quite original equipment looking.. but its decent IMO.
I had Denny at racetested.com make me a nice quality sticker for the switch functions, I painted the light bezel to help it blend in a bit better, & I painted the center of the bulb to cut down on the night time passanger seat blue glow.

Whatcha think?


BEFORE







AFTER

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  #35  
Old 09-09-2007
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definately a lot better....
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  #36  
Old 09-27-2007
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Just an update:

Now that I've had a chance to operate this for a while under differing circumstances.
I can now see within the cab when the fan is running in auto mode. Daily driving, towing, slow speed/traffic, ect.. Having set the fan to come on at 215 degrees (as measured by the trucks PCM) I've been supprised at how little the fan comes on. Temps here have been in the 60s-70s in the morning and 80s on the way home. Few days in the 90s as well.

On *most* of my 32 mile one way commutes the fan never comes on! Generally it takes about 2-3 minutes to come on when I come to a full stop in real heavy traffic.
I even took the boat out on the freeway at 70mph for 10 miles, then took some 45-55 mph roads back home. Only once did it come on.. when I was getting back into town.

What I've basicly learned is that when set properly a e-fan really does'nt need to run too awful much in 85F temps and below. However in the 85F+ temps it will run a fair amount.

Rich
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  #37  
Old 09-27-2007
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how did you come to the conclusion to use a start temp of 215*? just curious because i am getting ready to redo my efan setup with a 2 speed fan (Taurus efan) and a controller that will controll both speeds. the controller reads the temp off AutoMeter water temp sending unit that i have installed inplace of the stock gauge sending unit. I was planning on the low speed (2300 CFM) coming on roughly at 185*, but i haven't been able to determine a high speed(~4500 CFM) on temp yet. i was thinking around 200*, but if you can give me some logic on the 215*. I am confused since i though the t-stat opened at 185*....
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  #38  
Old 09-27-2007
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mine turns on at about 210. maurice if its much lower than that it will run all the time.
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  #39  
Old 09-27-2007
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true.....so should i have the low speed come on a 200* and the high speed on a 215*? i don't think the engine will ever reach that will it since the t-stat opens at 185*
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  #40  
Old 09-27-2007
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it already did once remember? lol

something like that sounds good to me
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  #41  
Old 09-27-2007
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ha ha ha ha comedian in every group

that is the settings i will use then...
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  #42  
Old 09-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
how did you come to the conclusion to use a start temp of 215*?
I was a OEM automotive water pump engineer for 6 years.
Basicly the **average** fluid temp in the whole engine, heater core, and rad system is 7-8degree warmer than the t-stat is rated. That is assuming you have a good 14-16psi on the system. Boiling point is up around 250-260 like that.

Also, my S-Blade flex-a-lite won't let the temps get above 220 max when sitting in the driveway idling for 1/2hour.



Rich
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  #43  
Old 09-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
I was a OEM automotive water pump engineer for 6 years.
Basicly the **average** fluid temp in the whole engine, heater core, and rad system is 7-8degree warmer than the t-stat is rated. That is assuming you have a good 14-16psi on the system. Boiling point is up around 250-260 like that.

Also, my S-Blade flex-a-lite won't let the temps get above 220 max when sitting in the driveway idling for 1/2hour.



Rich
sweet thanks Rich......so i will let the low speed come on at 215* and the high side to come on a 225*.....how does that sound Mr. Waterman? i would assume that the high side would hardly be on (which would be good)....
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  #44  
Old 09-27-2007
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I'd set the high side on 220. And since your Ranger has a few years on it.. I'd make sure the system is holding pressure.

My flex-a-lite ramps the fan speed up from 60% to 100% in only about 4-5 degrees.

Oh and btw.. the temps I'm talking about are measured by the PCM. Not the rad it'self. Tonight I'll take a look at the controller setting. It just might be lower at the rad.

Rich
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  #45  
Old 09-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
I'd set the high side on 220. And since your Ranger has a few years on it.. I'd make sure the system is holding pressure.

My flex-a-lite ramps the fan speed up from 60% to 100% in only about 4-5 degrees.

Oh and btw.. the temps I'm talking about are measured by the PCM. Not the rad it'self. Tonight I'll take a look at the controller setting. It just might be lower at the rad.

Rich
the controller i am getting measures temperature off of the AutoMeter water temp gauge sending unit....or if i had the stock sending unit installed, i could tap into that wiring and use it....

this is the controller i am getting: click on FAN-PWM on the right side...
http://www.spalusa.com/

if i were to use a single speed fan, the controller would bring the fan on at 60% speed at a certain temp then up to 100% speed at another temp....

how can i test if my system is holding pressure? i would assume it is since i haven't had any problems with it or leaks...
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  #46  
Old 09-28-2007
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Autoshops have a special rad cap that has a pressure guage in it. But... the most common problem is the rad cap itself not holding pressure.

As a rule of thumb.. I'd just replace the cap if it's more than 10yrs old. (They are only $5)

btw, the symptoms of a rad cap not holding pressure is intermittent and random overheating. It'll be fine then all of a sudden it'll puke coolant.. then work fine. ect..

Rich
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  #47  
Old 09-28-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Autoshops have a special rad cap that has a pressure guage in it. But... the most common problem is the rad cap itself not holding pressure.

As a rule of thumb.. I'd just replace the cap if it's more than 10yrs old. (They are only $5)

btw, the symptoms of a rad cap not holding pressure is intermittent and random overheating. It'll be fine then all of a sudden it'll puke coolant.. then work fine. ect..

Rich
alright....i will get myself a new cap......hopefully they are not too expensive from Ford (sorry i don't want any aftermarket cap on my truck)......

i haven't had any problems with the cap leaking anything.....since you seem to know what you are talking about, i will trust you on this one...
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  #48  
Old 09-30-2007
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Before you buy... look for a green/white-ish residue around the cap seal. And look to see if the seal is perminately dented from the rads lip.

It's a small thing. But if your loosing pressure there will always be evidence.

Rich
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  #49  
Old 09-30-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Before you buy... look for a green/white-ish residue around the cap seal. And look to see if the seal is perminately dented from the rads lip.

It's a small thing. But if your loosing pressure there will always be evidence.

Rich
there isn't any residue around the cap.....
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  #50  
Old 10-01-2007
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Eh... let it go then. From time to time just look for a permanent denting of the rubber seal and a white-ish-ness on it.

Rich
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