New master cylinder bleeding abs
New master cylinder bleeding abs
I recently got a 2001 Ranger 4x4 4.0L 4 wheel abs and I changed all the rotors, pads, drums, and all rear brake hardware including rear master cylinders. I have a couple leaks from the master cylinder and other places up front so just want to replace everything in the braking system since my son will be driving it and most lines are rusted pretty good.
I have no problem flaring and replacing lines have done it many times and have already done the whole back of the trucks lines. I want to replace the master cylinder and brake booster which I know how to do and know how to bench bleed the master cylinder but my questions are on the ABS, and the block the lines go to, the one marked 4x4, is this the abs system and can I replace those lines? And read the post about using an old rotor with fins removed to trigger the abs to kick in and bleed the air out. What fins are talked about here, I have the old rotor I just took off so this is an option.
I am going to replace the hoses and all lines up front also but need to know about the abs first.
Thank you in advance
I have no problem flaring and replacing lines have done it many times and have already done the whole back of the trucks lines. I want to replace the master cylinder and brake booster which I know how to do and know how to bench bleed the master cylinder but my questions are on the ABS, and the block the lines go to, the one marked 4x4, is this the abs system and can I replace those lines? And read the post about using an old rotor with fins removed to trigger the abs to kick in and bleed the air out. What fins are talked about here, I have the old rotor I just took off so this is an option.
I am going to replace the hoses and all lines up front also but need to know about the abs first.
Thank you in advance
if you were to replace those lines, yes you would have to bleed the abs unit. You have correctly identified the ABS unit on the driver's inner fender. I am not sure about the "old rotor" trick you are describing. I'd have to read the post to pass judgement, although it does not sound like the best idea. Engaging the ABS a few times after you do your work should work the air out to the lines where it can be bled in the usual manner. Take it for a spin and do some hard stops. Just be aware, you may or may not have full braking capacity with air in the lines.
Do the lines, master, and booster really need replacing?
Do the lines, master, and booster really need replacing?
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93gpt
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May 8, 2011 07:01 PM



