No crank (already changed battery)
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From: Westport, MA
No crank (already changed battery)
Hey there,
I’ve got an 02 Ranger XLT. Went to start it and she was dead (no crank). I noticed the passenger door was ajar so I figured the cabin light stayed on and killed the battery. So, I tried jumping it, the dash lit up and everything came to life but when I tried turning it over, nothing, still no crank!
So today, I ran out and picked up a new battery. Figured it had to be a bad battery at this point as it’s easily 5+ years old. Hooked the new one up, electronics all came on, but no crank!!!!!
Am I missing something with regard to the initial loss of power and battery change?
One other oddity is that when I enter the cabin, this “tick tock” sound continuously chimes. Sounds exactly like the turn signal sound, but nothing is on. What’s more, the cabin light remains on now. I had to pull the bulbs to kill it!
Please help, any insight is greatly appreciated!
I’ve got an 02 Ranger XLT. Went to start it and she was dead (no crank). I noticed the passenger door was ajar so I figured the cabin light stayed on and killed the battery. So, I tried jumping it, the dash lit up and everything came to life but when I tried turning it over, nothing, still no crank!
So today, I ran out and picked up a new battery. Figured it had to be a bad battery at this point as it’s easily 5+ years old. Hooked the new one up, electronics all came on, but no crank!!!!!
Am I missing something with regard to the initial loss of power and battery change?
One other oddity is that when I enter the cabin, this “tick tock” sound continuously chimes. Sounds exactly like the turn signal sound, but nothing is on. What’s more, the cabin light remains on now. I had to pull the bulbs to kill it!
Please help, any insight is greatly appreciated!
Make sure battery is connected correctly, + and -, I know, but CHECK IT
Key on engine off should have Battery Light on, and check engine light is usually on for awhile
Disconnect Ground cable at battery, touch it(the CABLE END) to Positive cable, if its not long enough use a short wire or long screwdriver to do the connection
This will drain all the capacitors in all the electronics, so when power is applied again they will reboot from scratch.
If this doesn't read right to you then just leave Ground cable unhooked from battery for 15 minutes, that will allow all capacitors to drain
Hook battery back up
The "clicking" should be gone now
Now turn on key again, if there is a fast flashing THEFT light on the dash, leave key on and wait about 1 minute, that Flashing Light should start flashing a CODE NUMBER, count the flashes
The THEFT Light should come on with the key on, stay on for 2 or 3 seconds then go off, that's normal
Theft light can look like a padlock icon or say THEFT on it.
This is the PATS(passive anti-theft system), it reads the key's unique number, being used in the ignition, if Computer reads the correct number then THEFT light goes out and it allows starter motor to activate.
So make sure you SEE the Theft light come on and then go off with key on, if you don't see it then bulb could be burnt out, and it could be flashing and you wouldn't know it
Other things that can prevent starter motor activation
If automatic trans then transmission must be fully in PARK or Neutral, if not starter will not work, so try Neutral
If manual trans, then clutch pedal must be down all the way or no starter motor
Bad starter motor, if battery has been failing for awhile, slow cranking, this can cause starter motor failure, it over heated each time you started it
Key on engine off should have Battery Light on, and check engine light is usually on for awhile
Disconnect Ground cable at battery, touch it(the CABLE END) to Positive cable, if its not long enough use a short wire or long screwdriver to do the connection
This will drain all the capacitors in all the electronics, so when power is applied again they will reboot from scratch.
If this doesn't read right to you then just leave Ground cable unhooked from battery for 15 minutes, that will allow all capacitors to drain
Hook battery back up
The "clicking" should be gone now
Now turn on key again, if there is a fast flashing THEFT light on the dash, leave key on and wait about 1 minute, that Flashing Light should start flashing a CODE NUMBER, count the flashes
The THEFT Light should come on with the key on, stay on for 2 or 3 seconds then go off, that's normal
Theft light can look like a padlock icon or say THEFT on it.
This is the PATS(passive anti-theft system), it reads the key's unique number, being used in the ignition, if Computer reads the correct number then THEFT light goes out and it allows starter motor to activate.
So make sure you SEE the Theft light come on and then go off with key on, if you don't see it then bulb could be burnt out, and it could be flashing and you wouldn't know it
Other things that can prevent starter motor activation
If automatic trans then transmission must be fully in PARK or Neutral, if not starter will not work, so try Neutral
If manual trans, then clutch pedal must be down all the way or no starter motor
Bad starter motor, if battery has been failing for awhile, slow cranking, this can cause starter motor failure, it over heated each time you started it
Last edited by RonD; Nov 17, 2018 at 01:08 PM.
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