I have a 2002 XLT 4x4 automatic that has been giving me a no crank issue for a couple weeks now. One day it worked fine the next it just stopped working. I've had the battery tested and it's good, full charge. I've taken the starter off and bench tested it and it cranks fine. It seems it's a PATS issue. The theft light flashes fast when I turn the key all the way. All my lights work. Not sure what exactly is wrong. I have two original keys and two aftermarket keys that I programmed. None of which work anymore.

 

Welcome to the forum

Rapid flashing Theft light is PATS issue, for sure
Disables starter motor and fuel injectors

There is a transceiver ring around the ignition key cylinder, the "wand"
Picture here: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/151747...-1/s-l1000.jpg
Not your part number, just showing what it looks like

I would check the wiring, steering column covers are not that hard to remove
Check the wand itself and its wiring and then the connector down at the dash
PATS transceiver in 2002 wires run directly to the PCM(computer) PATS is built-in, no separate module like earlier years

The way it works:
When you turn on the key the wand sends out a Radio Burst(transmits)
Inside the handle of a PATS key is an RFID tag with a unique number, the Radio Burst gives the RFID tag enough power for it to send out its unique number
Wand receives this number(this is why it is called a trans-ceiver, lol) and sends it to the PCM

PCM compares that number to numbers saved in its memory
If a match is found then engine can be started
If no match is found then Rapid Flashing Theft light and No Start

So either your keys are not sending out clear numbers or transceiver is not getting clear numbers or PATS section in computer is going bad.

It is VERY important to NOT have 2 PATS keys on your key ring, Both can transmit numbers and numbers WILL get garbled, so no start

 

Thanks for the reply. I will check that when I get a chance. I'll let you know what I find. :)

 

RonD I asked the Op to come here from another Forum, I did what I could to help but I was out of ideas short of getting a quality scan tool that is capable of reading pats codes.

The price range of code readers that I have found that will read pats codes run in the 200 dollar range yet to perform diagnostics found in the pin point test for pats codes and program keys the even the entry level scan tool is in the neighborhood of 1200 bucks.

I knew for sure you would be well versed in the modern and semi modern pats systems and I was hoping the OP could avoid a trip to the dealer or buy expensive diagnostic tools.

I was a bit confused because I thought even if a code reader was not capable of reading the B pats codes found in Alldata DIY I thought when a problem was present with the pats system it should at least show a general code for the security system yet no codes are present in the OPs computer.

Anyways sorry for passing the buck but I wanted to help the OP and I was hoping you could point us both in the right direction so we both could learn more.

 

Would Forscan be able to read PATS codes for him? Just a though because it's way cheaper and can do more than an off the shelf scanner that costs a lot more. If so then he could even potentially program keys should he need to. Not sure though because I'm new to Forscan, my cable is arriving today.

 

I am not sure about Forscan the little I read about it I think you can program additional keys once you have a known working primary key, yet this is done with some code from Forscan that last only a few weeks.

What the OP needs is the ability to diagnose the issue, even if programming a key or two solves the problem it does not help him to know what caused the keys to drop the original programming if that is in fact what happened.

I read somewhere in Alldata that the Pats system can get into a timeout situation which could lock out the owner with programmed keys yet for the life of me I have not been able to find this information again.

It would suck to take the truck in pay to have the keys programmed get home and once again get shut down from a defective part in the Pats system.

When i came across the pats information in Alldata I was looking up something else and only half *** read it so what I think I remember may not be correct at all.

The OP has been shut down for some time now and I hope someone here can help him with the problem.

I am at a loss without at least a stored code to go by.

Attached are the list of pats codes which The OP and I whom both have Alldata can access the pin point test for each code.

In the pin point test many of which show a Pats system diagnostic scan tool connected which is used to help accurately diagnose some of these codes

As you can see with one code you simple replace the PCM with no diagnostics yet I would be gun shy if he found that code.

 

Most OBD2 readers only "ask for" Power train codes, Pxxxx, codes
There are Bxxxx, Body codes, which includes PATS
And Cxxxx, Chassis codes
Even Uxxxx, for Network communication codes

I guess best thing to do is look at your reader info and see if it has a method for "asking for" specific codes.

The computer will give any codes it is "asked for" so it's just whether or not your reader has the communications protocol to ask for it

Like a Google search, if you don't "ask" for the right information you don't get the right answers, lol

Some readers don't even "ask for" transmission codes, P0700-P0999

The "1" at the beginning of any code, like P1xxx means the number following is manufacturer specific
So P0174 and P1174 are the same code but the "1" may indicate a more detailed definition may be found in a Manufacturer's code book

Yes, I think the Forscan could read any of the codes the computer has in memory
It has an extensive list here: http://www.forscan.org/modules_list.html

 

You don't need a known working key. Just two legitimate PATS keys that are cut to fit.

The license code for programming is valid for 8 weeks. I'm not sure on the cost of a permanent license.

 

As of right now it does not cost anything, once it expires you just renew it. They could charge for it at some point and then it might be a longer or permanent license. The only way to get a permanent one right now is if you are helping with part of the beta test or helping with the project.

I would not recommend reprogramming the keys, just saying the option is available with the Forscan.

The rapid flashing Theft light is an indication that the keys are fine and the problem lies with the PATS system. The rapid flashing means that it has detected tampering and is triggered when vehicle theft is attempted or it does not see the correct keys. More than likely though what's happening is the VATS is no longer able to read the key. This could be as simple as a loose/broke wire under the steering column. It's also possible that the antenna to read the key or the transceiver module has broken. Their are some other possibilities but perhaps try taking the cover off for the steering column and check that all the wires are still connected and if moving the wires fixes the problem. If you google Ford theft light blinking fast the first link should be for a cargurus forum for an Explorer, which is having the same problem. Towards the bottom of the posts their is one with an 02 Ranger which has a picture and explains where he was moving wires around under the steering column got his to work again. Would be an easy test that you could do right now without having to read the codes or doing the pinpoint test and would eliminate a possibility.

 

I checked the pats tranceiver and the wiring looks fine. I'm not sure how to actually test it though. I can't seem to post pics without a host site. I use Tapatalk for FRF. I posted pics on my thread there. I ordered a Elm327 interface and will check out forscan to see if it gets any codes.

 

You can try this
Insert key and turn it to RUN(on)
If light is blinking rapidly wait 30-45 seconds until it starts to blink slowly or goes off
Turn key off and remove it, count to 10, 15 seconds
Put key back in and turn it to RUN, light should be flashing slowly, wait until it goes out
Now try to start engine

That's an old PATS reset, not sure if it still works

 

Tried the old pats reset. Didn't work. I did get a Bluetooth obd2 reader that works with forscan. I got some codes.
PCM P1000
PCM B1681
RCM B1318
GEM B1318
GEM B1359
GEM P0500
4x4M B1318

3 of them are low battery codes. It's been sitting a lost some juice. I'll charge it up.

 

Besides the 3 codes below the other 4 can be related to the low voltage. P0100 which I'd assume you weren't counted for low voltage just means the battery or PCM was disconnected at some point and the vehicle has not ran yet or long enough to do all the self tests. Once this happens the code will automatically clear.

GEM P0500 Speed sensor issue.
GEM B1359 Ignition RUN/ACC Circuit Failure (not sure what this issue is for sure, could be a bad ignition switch. Might also be related to the low voltage.

GEM B1681 is your PATS issue. It's a transceiver issue. Which means the module that's under your ignition is either bad, has a bad antenna, or wiring issue.
Not sure what the pinpoint test looks like for this code but other Fords vehicles I've the pinpoint tests for this code can be diagnosed with just a multi-meter that reads voltage and ohms to determine if it's an issue with the transceiver or the wiring.

 

From what I can tell I would clear these codes and re pull the codes to see which ones come back.

The B1359 code may just be a side effect of the pats lockout condition but also may be the cause of the pats issue.

Knowing what code to test first would be helpful so you do not run down a rabbit hole for no reason.

The pin point test for B1359 Is not that extensive compared to B1681

If the OP needs help navigating Alldata Pin Point test i will be glad to help.

For now I would just clear the codes try and start the truck and then pull the codes again to see what reappears. Of course do all of this with a known good and known charged battery.

The little bit that I read in the pin point test show that a DVOM is used in most if not all the test, You may have to reprogram the keys but that should not be a problem for Forscan

 

So I charged the battery up and now the only codes I get are
PCM P1000
PCM B1681
GEM P0500

 

Looks like you have a issue with the speed sensor, for now lets focus on your B1681

which should be easy to diagnose

If you go to Alldata DIY and look up all trouble codes then find the b codes then select the B1681 and follow the link to the pin point test, I took pictures of them for your reference but make sure to go by your session with Alldata since I do not know if the test are different with different engines.

 

Pin point test E1 just asked if you got code B1681 if yes got to E2

Let me know if you need any help understanding the pin point test.

 

I got to E5 and I am unclear on how to read my ohms on the multimeter. It appears it failed that test. Can you confirm? Should I try again? I put photos on my thread in FRF.

 

Based on your photo at FRF, you only hit 1.3kOhms instead of the required 10. That's a fail, so you need to check the circuit wiring.

 

Ok. I'm gonna test it again just to make sure. But how to I check the wiring? I'm guessing just look at it and see if it's broken anywhere? But I can only see so far as it wraps up with other bundles and disappears into the abyss of wiring.

 

Yes and no. you will have to try following the wire all the way back to the PCM. Getting a lower resistance reading means that the wire is rubbing on a bare metal surface and has worn the protective coating off, exposing some of the wire inside causing it to ground out. If the wire was broken your meter wouldn't of had an ohm reading, it would of registered as an open load. More than likely their are more wires in the same location that might not be warn all the way through yet, but are showing signs of damage to the protective coating.

 

I suggest doing the entire Pin Point test over again, after you understand your DVOM better.

Using Your Ohm Meter - Wells Vehicle Electronics

there are a bunch of how to videos From Fluke, Snap on etc that will show you the basics of a DVOM

Send the model number of your OHM meter when you get a chance.

BTW I only suggest doing the Pin Point test over again because one of the test you already completed could have been read wrong if you do not understand how to use your DVOM

Also each pinpoint test has parameters that need to be met during the test, each parameter is shown by an illustration.

If your not sure what each illustration means please ask, I will do what I can to find the legend that shows an explanation for each illustration.

 

Have you tried to program the two Ford keys since you have charged the battery? I remember reading somewhere if the battery voltage gets too low the system can lose the programming for the keys.

Kind of makes sense for your truck since you had battery voltage related issues.

 

The issue existed before the battery died from non-use.

I performed the test fron E5 with PCM disconnected and it registers 0.L which is nothing. Does that mean short is in PCM and not the wires?

 

I addressed this question in the other forum already.

What I suggested to do is a wiggle test while measuring the resistance during test 5

Make sure to wiggle every single wire and connector that could possibly effect this test.

You will need to refer to the wiring diagram to see what circuits are involved to know what wires and connectors to wiggle.

Disconnecting the PCM is not a valid part of the pin point test, this means other circuits
could effect the resistance in that circuit.

Yes your PCM could be bad yet the only way to know for sure is to complete the pin point test.

Which I know is a **** poor answer that you did not want to hear.

My gut instinct is telling me that you are reading the DVOM wrong and I think the reading is good and you should move on to the next test.