No instrument lights
Don't have a 1992 diagram, but Ford used Light Blue/red stripe wires for dash lights for 3 decades
Main light switch has the dimmer inside it, rotate ****
Dash light 12volts shares connection with Brown Parking light wires which have a fuse, so when park lights(or head lights) are on 12v goes to Dimmer wheel/**** inside the switch
The light blue wire on the main light switch will have 12v with Parking lights on, or less depending on dimmer setting
Then that wire "may" run another fuse in the cab fuse box, maybe 5amp, then out to all the dash lights, including instrument cluster, on a light blue/red striped wire
So you would need to UNHOOK THE BATTERY FIRST !!!! main light switch is connected DIRECTLY to battery
Then pull out the main light switch
Then plug switch back in
Then hook battery back up
With park lights ON test light blue wire for 12v and adjust the dimmer while testing to make sure voltage is going up and down
If no Volts then main light switch is bad, well the dimmer part
If you are getting variable voltage then have another look at the fuses, 15amp and lower, if possible test each with OHM meter, "looks" can be deceiving
If its just the instrument cluster lights then pull it out and test the light blue wire with park lights ON, if you have 3 to 12v(dimmer) then cluster has burned out bulbs or bad trace wiring inside it
Main light switch has the dimmer inside it, rotate ****
Dash light 12volts shares connection with Brown Parking light wires which have a fuse, so when park lights(or head lights) are on 12v goes to Dimmer wheel/**** inside the switch
The light blue wire on the main light switch will have 12v with Parking lights on, or less depending on dimmer setting
Then that wire "may" run another fuse in the cab fuse box, maybe 5amp, then out to all the dash lights, including instrument cluster, on a light blue/red striped wire
So you would need to UNHOOK THE BATTERY FIRST !!!! main light switch is connected DIRECTLY to battery
Then pull out the main light switch
Then plug switch back in
Then hook battery back up
With park lights ON test light blue wire for 12v and adjust the dimmer while testing to make sure voltage is going up and down
If no Volts then main light switch is bad, well the dimmer part
If you are getting variable voltage then have another look at the fuses, 15amp and lower, if possible test each with OHM meter, "looks" can be deceiving
If its just the instrument cluster lights then pull it out and test the light blue wire with park lights ON, if you have 3 to 12v(dimmer) then cluster has burned out bulbs or bad trace wiring inside it
Well then yes, it probably is the main light switch then, if you don't see variable volts when turning the ****
But doesn't explain why lights in cluster are not on, if they are getting 12volts
But doesn't explain why lights in cluster are not on, if they are getting 12volts
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DrW0392
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Jul 21, 2020 12:30 PM



