No spark when in start position
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: new orleans, la
No spark when in start position
Ive got an 88 ranger 2.0l. Ive changed distributer, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and ignition switch. It has no spark when in start position. But I realized when I let off the key it fires. If i bump the key it almost starts but its just not enough to get it going. It wants to start but wont. Please help. Ive run out of ideas
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: new orleans, la
I already changed it. And then figured the new one has to be bad so changed it again. Same problem still
On the older systems there is a separate power path for ignition system when key is in START and when it is in RUN
This was to help with Cold Starts and prevent coils from over heating.
When engine is running coil only needs 8volts for spark, any more than that just makes more heat and coil has a shorter life, so a resistor is added to the RUN power wire going to the coil "+".
But when starting, the starter motor draws battery voltage down to 9volts, the resistor power would drop to below 5volts and spark would be very very weak.
So a second power wire was needed for starting, this was often run from the Starter Relay on the fender, the "i" post on a 4 post relay, to the coil "+".
But they also used the Clutch switch(manual trans) or the NSS(automatic) to pass the direct power to coil for starting.
You can trace this wire or add you own new wire.
To add a wire you need a diode and 18gauge wire.
The diode is needed to prevent RUN power from flowing backwards thru the new wire.
A diode has a direction arrow on it, power will flow in the direction the arrow points.
You get this power from the starter relay.
Either from the "S" post, only has 12volts when key is in START
Or from the Starter Motors larger cable hook up, also only has power when key is in START.
So install the new wire on either with diode pointing towards coil "+"
Starter relay------diode>>------coil "+"
Leave existing wire on coil "+", it is still needed for RUN power
This was to help with Cold Starts and prevent coils from over heating.
When engine is running coil only needs 8volts for spark, any more than that just makes more heat and coil has a shorter life, so a resistor is added to the RUN power wire going to the coil "+".
But when starting, the starter motor draws battery voltage down to 9volts, the resistor power would drop to below 5volts and spark would be very very weak.
So a second power wire was needed for starting, this was often run from the Starter Relay on the fender, the "i" post on a 4 post relay, to the coil "+".
But they also used the Clutch switch(manual trans) or the NSS(automatic) to pass the direct power to coil for starting.
You can trace this wire or add you own new wire.
To add a wire you need a diode and 18gauge wire.
The diode is needed to prevent RUN power from flowing backwards thru the new wire.
A diode has a direction arrow on it, power will flow in the direction the arrow points.
You get this power from the starter relay.
Either from the "S" post, only has 12volts when key is in START
Or from the Starter Motors larger cable hook up, also only has power when key is in START.
So install the new wire on either with diode pointing towards coil "+"
Starter relay------diode>>------coil "+"
Leave existing wire on coil "+", it is still needed for RUN power
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
9440a4ld
General Technical & Electrical
1
Sep 2, 2014 11:12 AM
danger_ranger93
2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech
2
Aug 3, 2012 06:08 PM
joe.nigro@hotmail.com
SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines
0
May 19, 2012 11:52 PM
