Chunk?

Any rear axle from a 1993 to 2009 Ranger or Mazda B-series will bolt right in
7.5" or 8.8" doesn't matter
Easier to change the whole axle than just the ring and pinion gears

Also keep eye out for L/S, Limited slip 4.10

4.10 was 2nd most common axle ratio, 3.73 was most common, in Ranger and B-series

 

Ron.
Forgot to ask. What is the door tag code for the 410 rear and also how many teeth will I need on my speedo gear to run a 28 inch tire and a 4:10 rear?
Larry

 

Have a look here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...le_codes.shtml

20 tooth driven gear

 

I think I have a 20 tooth in there now I’ll have to pull it and count. As you say the color may not be right. It is either faded white or gray. I’m not sure.
changing the subject:
I put the new vacuum booster on this morning not a fun job but not too bad. I didn’t have to disturb the master cylinder, just pulled it back a bit. Idle is somewhat slower now about 750 in drive still about 900 in neutral though. Still have an occasional surge (100-150 RPM) when it is warming up once it warms up it is steady. So I believe you’re right about it being temperature related. I don’t know what in the world it could be I have sprayed everything and everywhere I Know. Only thing I can figure it must be the bottom manifold gaskets. I rechecked every vacuum connection this afternoon after I finished installing the booster. Nothing!!!
unless it is under the dash inside I just don’t know! everything in there works however the outside air the hot water valve the blend door, defrost, floor/face—- EVERYTHING! I have been wrenching on these motors for over 60 years I’ve never seen one with a vacuum leak that didn’t have a rough idle.

 

This one is for Ron.
I know you are tired of me but just a couple more questions because I don’t know anyone else smart enough to answer them.
is an intake manifold gasket failure on an unmolested engine a common thing to happen? I remember before the plastic manifolds it almost never happened.
I don’t want to go to this much trouble tearing that engine apart if I’m not going to find anything. Of course the upside is I will be able to get to the cam synchronizer easily.
secondly is switching from a 373 to a 410 diff going to make a noticeable difference?
I switched a mustang one time from I think a 3:07 or maybe a 2:90 to or 3:73 and it made a huge difference. But that was nearly 70 points this is less than 40.

 

Easiest first, if you have a 4cyl engine or 3.0l Vulcan then 4.10 would make a noticeable difference, with a 4.0l noticeable but not as much

Intake gaskets on V engines tend to leak because of the way they are bolted down and the low torque specs needed, the bolts tend to loosen up, you should generally use lock-tite on lower intake manifold bolts in V engines
Plastic upper intakes in the 1990's and early 2000's did have some issues but they got better, they are lighter and smoother inside so better than aluminum intakes

 

Sounds like you’re saying that it would be worth my while to change the intake gaskets and the 4:10 diff would be a good option if it doesn’t cost too much. I think they’re like 40 something dollars at PULL-A-PART for the whole axle. Trick will be to find a low miles truck with a 4:10. What years did U say works?
i’m going to go ahead and replace the coolant sensor, MAF, TPS, cam synchronizer and the purge valve sensors when I pull the top off the engine. Also going to pick up a spare computer while I’m at pull a part just for the heck of it. pretty soon I’m going to have a new truck I painted it a couple weeks ago got nice bucket seats in it now. Really looks and drives great. But, From what I read on this forum all that still may not solve the surge problem. If I wasn’t such a perfectionist none of this would matter it only moves 50 to 75 RPM every couple minutes or so. I just like to have everything perfect.
thanks for all your help, and hey, if you ever come through Thomaston Georgia I will buy you lunch. Where are you located?
Larry
PS I think I better take a couple helpers with me to pull a part to grab all these parts.

 

I won’t have any trouble with the PATS module if I change the computer out will I?
didn’t that begin in 99?
Larry

 

Yes, 1999 V6 Rangers only, not 4cyl

If V6 you need the Computer(PCM) AND matching PATS module with Keys, for 1999 and 2000 V6 Rangers only

 

Mine is a 1997 model 3.0 V-6. Do I need keys & PATS FOR THAT YEAR?

 

No, 1999 and up V6, it was an "option" in 1998 V6 Rangers but have never come across one
2001.5 and up 4cyl, mid year 2001

Ford skipped 2005 model year, none have PATS that year

 

Ron:
are you familiar with this OEM Ford part called an Idle air adjustment kit?
it’s a Play that goes between the IAC and the throttlebody it has adjustment screws.
Larry
F2PZ-9F939-A.

 

No, that would be redundant, the IAC valve is an adjustable air "leak", but controlled by the computer, as it should be

Ford did have issues with the older computer and IACs so used that device, usually on V8s, as a patch, should not be needed on any Ranger engine

 

I looked at my 97 and it has a aluminum upper and bolts are all super tight. Timed it and. It moves up exactly 200 rpm every 2 min regular until warmed up then maybe once in a while about 50-75 rpm.
cleaned the MAF And throttle body readjusted idle screw removed batt cables jumped them together for 30 min. Throttle plate real dirty top & bottom with black greasy dirt, MAF Clean as a whistle. Replaced dirty air filter. Much better now. Only moves once in several minutes. Not going to pull intake. Might break a bolt. As long as it stays like this I’m done with it.
larry

 

Ron:
Took my ranger to my mechanic that I sometime use on jobs I don’t want to do myself and had him hook up his fancy Snap On computer to my truck. My air fuel ratio was running at 15.5 to 1. He suggested we plug the 3/16 hole in my throtle plate to lower the air fuel ratio. We threded a screw in with some Loctite waited for a few minutes and rechecked it.
my a/f ratio was 14.2 to 1 not perfect but close.
that was a couple of days ago and I haven’t had any Idle surge since then.
I remember back in the 60s I was working at a tune-up shop and everybody was putting Duntov three-quarter cams in their small block Chevy’s. Remember that? And when it wouldn’t idle here they came. My boss at the time was a master tuneup artist. we had a Marquette tune-up machine with a big round scope on top. Remember them. It had a probe for the air fuel. We would stick it in the tail pipe and they would all be lean. My boss would take the base of those old WCFB Carter carburetors And drill out the idle ports a few thousandths and WaLa! No more wondering idle. The customers that we were geniuses. I also developed a double spring set up for the dual points in the 340 and 365 hp Corvette of the 63 to 65 era. I would take the spring from an extra box of Echlin points and put it into the sets I installed. This would enable them to turn 6000 RPM without point float. Of course we wear Pawl would wear down very quickly but that was good for us. it was another tune up. Again those corvette owners thought we were geniuses.
Larry

 

Well the computer doesn't use O2 sensors at idle or at WOT(wide open throttle) and tends to run an engine Richer at idle, 14:1, so 14.2:1 would be correct at idle, the 15.5:1 was too lean and can cause overheating at idle

Its surprising that the hole was an issue, more likely that there is a smaller leak somewhere else, but closing the hole compensated for that

Good stuff

 

I just remembered those old Chevys idling ruff if at all up and down all over the place with a lean mixture caused by the bigger cam. So I figured that the lean mixture on mine was causing the idle wandering. Never had any overheating though. In fact I have let it idle for long periods (30 min +) while I waited in line at our new Chix Filet on 90+ degree days. With that 12 blade fan I don’t believe that sucker would ever overheat. And you may be right about a small leak somewhere makes sense to me. So as long as it stays small I’m good here.

 

Ron: Couple questions.
1: Can I replace the clutch cycle switch mounted on the accumulator without removing my 134-A?

2: Do U happen to know the preset operating pressures for the AC high pressure switch?

My compressor occasionally disengages for a couple minutes when I sit and idle on a 90+ day. I checked it when I got home and it was 250# at idle and 295 @ 2000RPM but didn’t disengauge sitting in the driveway.
I drained and flushed the system and replaced the refrigerant, accumulator, filter and the office right after I got the truck. Charged it with 38 Ounces of 134-A & a small can of PAG-46.
Larry

 

The pressure switches can be changed without clearing the system

You would have to look pressure ranges up

What year Ranger is it again?
Around 1990 and up the Engine computer(PCM) can shut off AC if engine temp starts to climb, using the WOT relay, so could be pressure switch or PCM

 

RonD:
I replace my clutch cycle switch didn’t seem to make any difference compressor still cuts out pretty sure it’s the engine temp rising (PCM) when I sit & idle on a real hot day, I don’t have numbers but my gauge does move up towards center and just stays there it’ll never overheat. Pulled over under a shade tree to eat my lunch set there maybe 10 minutes with the engine off started it back up and compressor came on. I’m wondering I know I could put an override switch on the compressor would it hurt anything as long as the presures didn’t get too high? Don’t think that would happen because high pressure switch would shut it off before it damaged anything. And, I can watch the temperature gage inside to make sure the engine doesn’t overheat. What say you???
Larry

 

If it shuts off on hot days then system may be overcharged or has a restriction

You will burn out the compressor if you by-pass either pressure swicth

 

In thinking back on it it may be a little over charged but it couldn’t be more than 2 to 4 ounces. When I charged it last fall I ran out of gas before I got it fulI. Realizing that when hot weather came and not wanting to borrow my neighbors charging cylinder again I put about a half a can in and that probably was a little too much i will take a couple ounces out and see if that solves the problem. So basically you’re thinking it is running the pressure up to high on the high side on a really hot day and the high pressure limit switch is kicking it out? It takes 3 to 5 minutes for it to come back on we’re at the low pressure switch I believe it would come back on quicker than that, right? Of course I guess it doesn’t matter which one is kicking it off they’re just doing their job.
Larry