Power Steering pumps - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 02-26-2008
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Power Steering pumps

With now running a toyota power steering box I dont think my stock ranger steering pump can handle the load/pressure required.

Does anyone have specs on the ranger pump? How many PSI it is outputting and the GPM?

Also what other pumps will mount to the 4.0? Going to require a custom bracket I suppose?
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Old 02-26-2008
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the extreme duty toyota pump from PSC outputs 1600 psi and 4.5 gpm.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/produc...roducts_id=512
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Old 02-26-2008
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what about using a 95-97 4.0 OHV power steering pump? i think they are different since the TTB gear box needs more to make it work...
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Old 02-26-2008
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i know this is way off topic but i found this while searching for pressure specs.

its a "Ranger GT" with a 2.3L

http://www.victorynissanmechanicsvil...Ford-Ranger-GT

anyway lol

as soon as i can get to my alldata dvd i'll look up the factory specs for you zach
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Old 02-26-2008
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It has GT badging and dual exhaust lol
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Old 02-26-2008
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yeah they dont even know what motor is in it, vin "U" = 3.0 duh
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Old 02-26-2008
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Zach,

I do not know of the specs of our box, so I'm quite curious to see if/when someone comes up with the info.

I recently spoke with Kelvin at PSC about the 4.0 and pump. According to him and my description, ours being a pump with a remote reserviour, there is no 'out the door' upgrade for our engine through them. However, he assured me that the pump on our 4.0's is a damn good one and (for my application) should handle the extra load of a steering assist ram pretty easily.

I'm not sure how your steering feels, but I've never had an issue with mine. Even with my 38's, on the street, it has always felt pretty fluid and as close to rack-and-pinion as as setup such as ours can get.

Last edited by 2002FX4; 02-26-2008 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 02-26-2008
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my problem is i cant turn the wheel sitting at a light...

can you kevin? if our pump can handle it im thinking about getting a ram assist and porting the yota box...

when i talked to PSC he said it would be much better if i got rid of that POS Ford pump which got me thinkin... I dont know who i talked to.

also i think going to high steer will fix some of my problems too. the bearing on the steering shaft helped a lot but not as much as i wanted it too

Last edited by zabeard; 02-26-2008 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 02-26-2008
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sorry to thread jack, but did anyone else notice on that ranger they only had a gt badge on the front left fender? they couldnt even afford any more of them...
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Old 02-26-2008
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Don't forget the dual exhaust!!!
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Old 02-26-2008
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Zach, Before assuming that you should just up the pressure. Make sure that the distance from the knuckles pivot to the tie rod ball is the same as the toyotas. If it's shorter.. then the effort is higher. Upping the pressure may "work" but you may wind up overloading a ball joint on the knuckle or tie rod.

Rich
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Old 02-26-2008
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I have no problems turning the wheel when sitting at a light with either set of 35" tires on.

BUT: if I want to spin the wheel really fast it suddenly resists hard in either direction like a bind -- but it's not. If I lift the wheels, no problem. Obviously the pump can't deliver the volume when putting out the pressure to move the wheels under worst case conditions.

So, I believe the pressure/volume curve is not right, but I can use the thing as it is -- though I too would like to hear some numbers if anyone finds them.

An awful lot of Ford PS pumps can be interchanged mechanically. If you look, most of them use the same 3-bolt pattern to mount them to the bracket designed for the specific application. Furthermore, they have a standard thread on the pump body that an o-ring type adapter screws into, making it easy to change the pump over to different fitting types.

In some remote reservoir types, you may find it's just an adaptor to the standard pump body -- don't know.

My thought is that even some older F-150 style pumps designed for the bigger steering boxes can be put in there. It's on my list of things to look at.

What I haven't looked at is if there are many different bolt circle diameters to that 3 bolt mounting the pumps use. It doesn't look like it a glance.
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Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl View Post
Zach, Before assuming that you should just up the pressure. Make sure that the distance from the knuckles pivot to the tie rod ball is the same as the toyotas. If it's shorter.. then the effort is higher. Upping the pressure may "work" but you may wind up overloading a ball joint on the knuckle or tie rod.

Rich
im a bit confused on what you are trying to say... elaborate more? sorry.
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz View Post
I have no problems turning the wheel when sitting at a light with either set of 35" tires on.

BUT: if I want to spin the wheel really fast it suddenly resists hard in either direction like a bind -- but it's not. If I lift the wheels, no problem. Obviously the pump can't deliver the volume when putting out the pressure to move the wheels under worst case conditions.

So, I believe the pressure/volume curve is not right, but I can use the thing as it is -- though I too would like to hear some numbers if anyone finds them.

An awful lot of Ford PS pumps can be interchanged mechanically. If you look, most of them use the same 3-bolt pattern to mount them to the bracket designed for the specific application. Furthermore, they have a standard thread on the pump body that an o-ring type adapter screws into, making it easy to change the pump over to different fitting types.

In some remote reservoir types, you may find it's just an adaptor to the standard pump body -- don't know.

My thought is that even some older F-150 style pumps designed for the bigger steering boxes can be put in there. It's on my list of things to look at.

What I haven't looked at is if there are many different bolt circle diameters to that 3 bolt mounting the pumps use. It doesn't look like it a glance.
hmm... so u can literally just turn the wheel?

ive been dealing with mine for over a year. not a huge deal but i want it better

want - need... lol
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2008
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Yes, it worked that way even before I put the better steering box in. Could be the difference between the 'Yota and Ford steering boxes.

The type of pump in all 1979 and later Fords except some vans and big trucks is the C2 style pump which looks like this:



From what I'm reading they're all the same pump! But it's possible that orifices in the fitting adapter and some kind of valving/spring mechanism that is behind the fitting set the flow/pressure curve and relief pressure.

I'm still looking into this. It's possible that a new pump with some modifications to the components that set the operating parameters would accomplish what is needed.
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Old 02-26-2008
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awesome... only thing is that does not look anything like the ranger pump... lol maybe its the a/c in the road.
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2008
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you ought to consider swapping out to the F-150 steering boxes.....they are stronger and from what John says, they work better with the Ranger steering pump....
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2008
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Zach, what he's saying about the tie rod and the steering arms is this: if your steering arms are shorter than the stock toyota steering arms (which the toyota box was designed to work with) then your steering box has less leverage when it pushes/pulls the shorter steering arm. torque= applied force x length of the radius arm. Getting longer steering arms may make it easier to turn.
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Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
awesome... only thing is that does not look anything like the ranger pump... lol maybe its the a/c in the road.
It looks EXACTLY like the Ranger pump. You're seeing (as I did at first) the mounting bracket which completely surrounds it and looks like it's the pump housing or something -- it's not. Have another look and you'll see what I mean.
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Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61 View Post
Zach, what he's saying about the tie rod and the steering arms is this: if your steering arms are shorter than the stock toyota steering arms (which the toyota box was designed to work with) then your steering box has less leverage when it pushes/pulls the shorter steering arm. torque= applied force x length of the radius arm. Getting longer steering arms may make it easier to turn.
Another thing to consider is excessive caster and the scrub radius.

Scrub radius is the offset of the pivot point on which tire rotates on the ground from the actual center of the tires contact with the ground. It "scrubs" as you turn it.

There's always a bit because of caster. Manufacturers design the wheels with a certain scrub radius for stability as well. However, generally the mounting surface position and wheel offset are designed to minimize scrub radius.

Wider tires and less backspacing increase scrub radius dramatically. This increases steering force.

The Dana 30 in particular may have had the knuckle area designed for the high backspacing wheels of a Jeep. So, when you put it on a Ranger and put low backspaced wide wheels on it -- even worse.

It's quite possible if you had the D44 on you wouldn't have this problem -- don't know.
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Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61 View Post
Zach, what he's saying about the tie rod and the steering arms is this: if your steering arms are shorter than the stock toyota steering arms (which the toyota box was designed to work with) then your steering box has less leverage when it pushes/pulls the shorter steering arm. torque= applied force x length of the radius arm. Getting longer steering arms may make it easier to turn.
oh ok. well i had a thread like this before discussing high steer arms as we decided that it really is not going to help that much...

Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz View Post
It looks EXACTLY like the Ranger pump. You're seeing (as I did at first) the mounting bracket which completely surrounds it and looks like it's the pump housing or something -- it's not. Have another look and you'll see what I mean.
oh ok. makes sense i will look again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz View Post
Another thing to consider is excessive caster and the scrub radius.

Scrub radius is the offset of the pivot point on which tire rotates on the ground from the actual center of the tires contact with the ground. It "scrubs" as you turn it.

There's always a bit because of caster. Manufacturers design the wheels with a certain scrub radius for stability as well. However, generally the mounting surface position and wheel offset are designed to minimize scrub radius.

Wider tires and less backspacing increase scrub radius dramatically. This increases steering force.

The Dana 30 in particular may have had the knuckle area designed for the high backspacing wheels of a Jeep. So, when you put it on a Ranger and put low backspaced wide wheels on it -- even worse.

It's quite possible if you had the D44 on you wouldn't have this problem -- don't know.
i completely understand what you are saying john, makes perfect sense and could be my ultimate problem... my new wheels for the D44 do not have this low backspacing and are not as wide. this really makes me wish i had the D44 on... only a few more months...
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  #22  
Old 02-26-2008
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
you ought to consider swapping out to the F-150 steering boxes.....they are stronger and from what John says, they work better with the Ranger steering pump....
i am not going to buy a new box.... they are too costly and i really dont think that is the problem.
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  #23  
Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
my problem is i cant turn the wheel sitting at a light...

can you kevin? if our pump can handle it im thinking about getting a ram assist and porting the yota box...

when i talked to PSC he said it would be much better if i got rid of that POS Ford pump which got me thinkin... I dont know who i talked to.

also i think going to high steer will fix some of my problems too. the bearing on the steering shaft helped a lot but not as much as i wanted it too
I have no problem turning my 15" wide tires when not moving. I really do think high steer will help out due to the physical changes in points of force and leverage.
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  #24  
Old 02-26-2008
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But again, it's not necessarily going to help here since he's not putting high steer on the D30.

And, I can turn them fine with the stock pump on my D44 with 35's.

The problem with longer arms is it will take more turns of the steering wheel to turn the wheels. That's a definite consideration to regard as well. You don't get something for nothing and if you give yourself more moment with a longer arm, you will have to travel more distance on the circumference of the "circle" to get the same angle change in the wheels.
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  #25  
Old 02-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE View Post
i know this is way off topic but i found this while searching for pressure specs.

its a "Ranger GT" with a 2.3L

http://www.victorynissanmechanicsvil...Ford-Ranger-GT

anyway lol

as soon as i can get to my alldata dvd i'll look up the factory specs for you zach

Another half random note..

I was looking at the engine specs..

ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Power: 107kW, 143HP SAE @ 5200 rpm; 154 ft lb, 209Nm @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Economy EPA Highway (|/100km): 29, EPA Highway (mpg): 8.1, EPA City (|/100km): 24, EPA City(mpg): 9.8


Look at the gas mileage.... wtf? lol

Last edited by WowMike2001; 02-26-2008 at 09:11 PM.
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