General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Replacing rear coolant hose on 2005 Duratec

Old Jun 21, 2022
  #1  
The Bob's Avatar
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From: Goodyear, AZ
Replacing rear coolant hose on 2005 Duratec

hello All,

I had my clutch replaced and thought I had all the hoses replaced but I did not purchase the one that goes to the bent metal pipe just below the EGR.

Do you think I can get that on and off from the side of the truck? I can take the plastic wheel cover and the tire off for better access.

I can see the coolant hose clip so I think I can get this done.

I wish my mechanic had told me as I thought he understood I was trying to replace all the hoses.


This is not the actual truck but it shows the hose that I am referring to.


Thanks,

BOB








 
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Old Jun 21, 2022
  #2  
Turismolover22's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Originally Posted by The Bob
hello All,

I had my clutch replaced and thought I had all the hoses replaced but I did not purchase the one that goes to the bent metal pipe just below the EGR.

Do you think I can get that on and off from the side of the truck? I can take the plastic wheel cover and the tire off for better access.

I can see the coolant hose clip so I think I can get this done.

I wish my mechanic had told me as I thought he understood I was trying to replace all the hoses.


This is not the actual truck but it shows the hose that I am referring to.


Thanks,

BOB








To remove that hose, you 'd first need to take both wheels off, and both splash shields need removed. Then pull the hoses off the passenger side, one should go to the coolant reservoir, and one should go to the heater circuit. There will be at least 1 nut that secures that hose to the exhaust manifold, maybe 2, I cannot remember. Those have to come off.

Then from the driver side, you'll disconnect the hose from the EGR as well as the thermostat housing. This hose assembly is one piece, and cannot be serviced unless you already have the Dorman replacement hose on the truck. I would say the hardest part of the job will be getting a hand in there to undo the hose from the EGR. And then I would carefully pull the entire hose assembly off from the passenger side, working the flexible portions over the transmission. You may make yourself a tiny smidge of room by unbolting the transmission cross-member, and using a jack to lift/lower the transmission, tilt the engine/trans as one in order to gain access back there. The factory service manual more or less REQUIRES transmission removal, its like step 3 or 4 on the "process flow tree" so you're in for a lot of cut knuckles and a lot of swear words getting it out without removing the transmission. It is doable, as I've seen a few members suggest they did the same in the past. It just wont be easy.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2022
  #3  
The Bob's Avatar
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From: Goodyear, AZ
Thank you for the reply,

I wish that my computer graphics were working as I was trying to draw an arrow to the hose that was not replaced. It was the middle hose. I had the metal hose that goes around the rear of the engine to the degas tank changed and the hose that connected to the EGR valve replaced. The middle hose that connects to the rear of the engine then wraps around the driver's side and connects just above the PCV valve I need to replace.



 
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Old Jun 21, 2022
  #4  
Turismolover22's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Originally Posted by The Bob
Thank you for the reply,

I wish that my computer graphics were working as I was trying to draw an arrow to the hose that was not replaced. It was the middle hose. I had the metal hose that goes around the rear of the engine to the degas tank changed and the hose that connected to the EGR valve replaced. The middle hose that connects to the rear of the engine then wraps around the driver's side and connects just above the PCV valve I need to replace.

OOOOH lol. Sorry for the misinterpretation.

I would honestly say use the same method to access that clamp, it wont be easy, but you might be able to squeeze a hose clamp tool in there to squeeze that.

The component you are referring to is what's called the water neck, and the j pipe that's on the bottom is to aide coolant circulation through the engine while the thermostat is closed, IIRC.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2022
  #5  
The Bob's Avatar
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From: Goodyear, AZ
Thanks for the hope.

I am very aggravated that this was not brought up when I had my clutch put in and had every other hose you could think of. This was done at a private mechanic who has a shop at his residence so i think when you go to places like that you should get a bit higher level of service but like most things people only do what you ask them to do.

He was aware of the intent to handle the coolant line concern at the same time.
Oh well, This is why I like to do things myself so that when I make a mistake I can learn from them and I made a mistake here that was not corrected when someone had the opportunity to do so.

I will follow up with how it all works out. I am going to try to find the PCV vacuum hose as well while I am at it.

Thanks,

BOB

 
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Old Jul 3, 2022
  #6  
The Bob's Avatar
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From: Goodyear, AZ
Well I got it in and it was a bit tricky.

Took me about 1 hour of cursing and scratching up my hand but I got it on.

Not fun but I feel better not that all the hoses back there are new.

Happy 4th

BOB

 
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