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Reving 2002 Ford Ranger Rotors

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  #26  
Old 10-14-2005
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Thanks Sara.

You should lube the caliper bolts since they need to slide easier for quick pad changes. You can loctite them, but it just makes removal harder.
I don't think you need to lube the bracket bolts, but definatley loctite them. After all, they hold the brake caliper on the wheel, and you don't want that to fall off when under breaking.





Sorry I don't have time to post a full diagram on disc removal, but it's really just the removal of the two caliper bracket bolts. There was confusion about clip, slippers, and claiper bolts; which is why I wanted to post some more info.
Good luck, and have fun with your Ranger.
 
  #27  
Old 10-14-2005
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Okay, grease the caliper bolts and locktite the bracket bolts.

I saw that on slippers and the like. I guess I just need to get in there, clean up what needs cleaning, lube what needs lube, and locktite what needs locktite.
 
  #28  
Old 10-14-2005
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I will buy the brackets for safety, sound like a good idea?
 
  #29  
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absolutley - never cheap out on the brakes
 
  #30  
Old 10-14-2005
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So, sound like I have it all covered now?
 
  #31  
Old 10-14-2005
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Originally Posted by Ringhead
I will buy the brackets for safety, sound like a good idea?
Brackets? Or clips? You won't need new brackets -- those things are bulletproof (literally, lol)!

I mean, cheap is one thing -- but buying new brackets when you change the brakes is totally unnecessary!

Neil -- what were you thinking when you answered?
 
  #32  
Old 10-14-2005
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I meant clips, clips.
 
  #33  
Old 10-17-2005
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Okay, done deal. Replaced the clips, used high temb grease on the caliper, and used loc-tite medium on the caliper mount bolts. They were a beyach to get off, my God, they use strong loc-tite at the factory. After beating them for 15 minutes, I was able to remove them.

Question, I loc-tited them again and tightened with all of my might, is that fine? I am worried as I have heard the horror stories.
 
  #34  
Old 10-17-2005
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Originally Posted by Ringhead
I meant clips, clips.
as did I

John - you are such a panic.....
nice job doing your own brakes Sara - feels good doesn't it!!
and medium blue loc tite with a full press wrenching is all you need
 
  #35  
Old 10-17-2005
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Originally Posted by Ringhead
Okay, done deal. Replaced the clips, used high temb grease on the caliper, and used loc-tite medium on the caliper mount bolts. They were a beyach to get off, my God, they use strong loc-tite at the factory. After beating them for 15 minutes, I was able to remove them.

Question, I loc-tited them again and tightened with all of my might, is that fine? I am worried as I have heard the horror stories.
Good job Sara! I did not do my brakes when I converted to slotted rotors and the bolts were not loc-tited. They both came out so I had a loose caliper scraping a nice groove into my inner-wheel. Sounded horrible and braking was terrible..and scary. Glad you did it right the first time! Congrats!
 
  #36  
Old 10-17-2005
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It does feel good. Now as long as the rotor bracket stays attached, I will be satisfied.
 
  #37  
Old 10-17-2005
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Originally Posted by LILBLUE04FX4L2
John - you are such a panic.....
Ha ha! More like I CAUSE panic...
 
  #38  
Old 03-09-2018
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In the process of doing my brakes. What do you mean by getting a hardware kit for the bracket/caliper. I know to clean the rust off the moving parts and use some wheel bearing grease or sil glyde silicone grease for the pins.
 
  #39  
Old 03-09-2018
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So do you lock tite just the brackets that hold the caliper on or do you do the bolts that hold the pads on as well with lock tite
 
  #40  
Old 03-09-2018
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Do you use Lock-Tite only on the brackets and then lube the caliber bolts and then Lock-tite them also. Also on the slide pins and moving parts to the pads do you use wheel bearing grease or silicone grease
 
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