Hey guys, I got another problem on my gf's 2.3 mazda. Its a 97, 5spd, 2wd, 130k miles. New plugs/wires ~1000 miles ago.

Ever since she bought it in January 08, it's ran really wierd when shifting. It's like the RPM's stay up real high after we push the clutch in and let off the throttle. For instance, if I shift at 3500 rpm's I can count to three before the rpms get down to 2000.

I drove my friends 96 ranger, identical drivetrain, and his rpm's drop right away, like instantly. And his has way more power, but I think thats related to the cat being a little clogged on the mazda? maybe?

It's also running rich too. The a/c doesn't work, and a lot of times with the windows open we can smell gas really strong when taking off from a stop or turning corners. Don't know if it's related, but it could be.

This truck has been nothing but problems, (timing belt, abs light, misfire, no power, bad mileage, leaking a/c, no hot/cold control) and she's about ready to drive it off a cliff, rightfully so. I keep telling her that it'll last once we get everything fixed on it. But where does it end?

So what do you guys think is goin on with this thing? Any help would be great!!!

 

My 2000 did this sporatically, and I blamed it on the Idle Air Control valve- which is the little cylinder looking thing that sits near the throttle body.

 

I wondered about that myself. Is there a way to test it? I read to unplug it and see what happend. I unplugged it a little while back, started it up, and it would barely idle. It ran at like 400 rpm instead of ~800 or so like normal. It was real sluggish to rev up too. Only thing is, I don't know if that means it's bad or working like it should.

ps thanx for the pic too!!

 

I just changed mine out and it made a big difference.

 

You can try cleaning it. Run some fuel injection system cleaner(carb cleaner for efi) through it. While you are there clean off your throttle body.

 

Aw, why you gota hate on the chevy's?? LOL j/k. So hopefully thats whats doin it. If a couple more people agree, then looks like thats one of the things I'll be doin on it tonight.

 

Is that what it's supposed to do though? Run real crappy when you unhook it, then back to normal when its hooked up? Not sure what it means really...

 

I would replace the whole IAC, cleaning it never works.

 

I think thats guna be the ticket... I've got the IAC, new coils, and rear ABS pickup all to get done after work tonight. I'll be busy! But none of it should be too hard. Good thing I got a fresh 12 pack of liquid mechanic!!!

 

Update time... replaced the IAC valve last night. It seemed to help some. I'm not sure how fast the rpms are supposed to drop between shifts, but it's better than it was.

However the old one really didn't look bad. The inside was really pretty clean. But since I'd already bought a new one, I figured I woldn't bother with the old one.

I also put new coils on it, due to it misfiring and running like crap. It didn't fix it completley, but man it gave it a TON more power!! The butt dyno was reading like 20-30 hp!!! I couldn't believe the difference it made!!

 

What coils?

 

the el cheapo duralast ones. The wires didnt' fit on them worth a $hit I was really kinda pissed at how bad they fit compared to the stock ones. They wouldn't hardly clip on, only one side would clip unless I got em just right. They sure made a difference though.